Author Topic: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks  (Read 93298 times)

Offline brianmch

  • Distributor
  • *****
  • Posts: 1411
  • Huky 500 J/ Artisan
Re: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks
« Reply #390 on: November 14, 2016, 05:49:30 AM »
I roast about 1,000 grams a week and have probably run 270 to 290 batches through it.  Any consensus as to when burners need replacement? 

FWIW, I hit 1C appx 12 minutes in from start. 

Offline philme

  • Standard User
  • *
  • Posts: 30
  • I drink, therefore I am
Re: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks
« Reply #391 on: December 06, 2016, 05:47:53 PM »
So, my light went out. Blown bulb, I thought, and researched a replacement. Found this for $2.32 online: GE Lighting 10692 25-Watt Appliance Intermediate Base T7 1CD Light Bulb

I went to replace the bulb - took out two screws (big mistake) and removed the glass. Tried to remove the bulb and noticed it was loose. Tightened it by screwing all the way in... light works! Now I have a spare bulb.

When I tried to replace the screws, I noticed there was a problem - the part which attached to the screws had separated from the place where the screw is inserted. Hard to describe, but I had to do some difficult gymnastics with my fingers to get it back together. In the process I caught my pinky finger in there and it got stuck to the point where I thought I would have to call 911... but eventually I freed it with a nice sore spot over.

If the light does actually blow, in the future, I'll just remove the screws part of the way and pry the glass out with the screws still there. If anyone has a better technique, I'd like to hear it.

Offline brianmch

  • Distributor
  • *****
  • Posts: 1411
  • Huky 500 J/ Artisan
Re: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks
« Reply #392 on: December 08, 2016, 05:33:28 AM »
Thanks for the heads-up PhilMe. My light is going strong but who knows how long that will be. I keep it on the whole time. 

Took the casing off the sides and rear to clean a few days ago.  There was a lot of powdery mess in there!  Wasn't too bad of a job though and only took 10 minutes or so.  Buttoned up just fine which I was worried about. 

Offline BaconFat

  • Standard User
  • ***
  • Posts: 273
Re: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks
« Reply #393 on: December 08, 2016, 10:04:47 AM »
...  Buttoned up just fine which I was worried about.

Yeah, I'm always extra careful with those sheet metal screws Behmor uses.  Extremely easy to over tighten and enlarge the screw hole, then you're screwed.  I wish they had used threaded holes and machine screws instead.

Offline brianmch

  • Distributor
  • *****
  • Posts: 1411
  • Huky 500 J/ Artisan
Re: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks
« Reply #394 on: December 08, 2016, 11:01:40 AM »
+1 on being careful about the screws.  I think that is a corner cutter.  For the money a Behmor is pretty hard to beat.

Here's a lingering question...

How do you guys deal with the fan comes on in the 1st half of the roast?
Has anyone ever measured what happens to bean temps during this process? I would think they fall as I lose 15 to 20 degrees (in B temps) during this time. 
I know Ira developed a temp interface to use thermo's in the beans but I'm not sure anyone uses it.


Offline JojoS

  • Standard User
  • **
  • Posts: 160
  • Behmor/Eureka Mignon/Gaggia Classic
Re: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks
« Reply #395 on: December 10, 2016, 03:05:04 AM »
IIRC, Ira and another guy Freddofrog from down under both mentioned that the bean temp probes they have outfitted their Behmors register a negligible drop with bean temp when the afterburner kicks in. We know the sidewall temp registers a rather big one. I always charge 323 grams so I am not really done with the yellowing phase when the afterburner kicks in at 7:30 after start on P1 auto. Not critical on a slow start Behmor style of roasting. I suppose it is another matter with 200 grams or less charge weight.

Offline brianmch

  • Distributor
  • *****
  • Posts: 1411
  • Huky 500 J/ Artisan
Re: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks
« Reply #396 on: December 10, 2016, 06:21:28 AM »
Thanks. I charge in a range of 230 to 330 depending on what I'm roasting, how many batches I need, and how much time I have.  I've been trying to charge hotter and manipulate temps before the fan turns on...IDK how much difference it makes. 

Offline Benjamin

  • Standard User
  • **
  • Posts: 132
Re: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks
« Reply #397 on: June 04, 2019, 10:01:25 PM »
Thanks. I charge in a range of 230 to 330 depending on what I'm roasting, how many batches I need, and how much time I have.  I've been trying to charge hotter and manipulate temps before the fan turns on...IDK how much difference it makes.

Uh-oh, looks like necrobumping is now getting a warning from the forum software. Hope I'm not stepping on any toes by doing so...

Anyways, the reason I'm posting is because I'm stuck with the Behmor for the foreseeable future (if/when I can start selling ~7# roasted a week, I will consider upgrading), and I've recently found out I can start tasting my roast flaws, so I want to ask for some advice:

1) If I ever do more than about 30 seconds after the start of 1C, I get way too much carbon in the cup for my taste. I don't know how you all write about going after the stop of 1C.

2) Anybody have a rough guide for converstion from B temperature readings to actual bean mass temperatures? Would be nice to be able to ballpark when people on other roasters talk of stopping at 405F or 445F etc.

3) If the bean mass temp DOESN'T supposedly change much when the fan kicks in 75% of the way through the roast, does that mean when I punch P5 on manual to get heat back up, I'm actually screwing over my roast by suddenly jacking up the heat and rate of drying/Maillard reactions?

4) Is there a reason not to do preheating with the beans fully loaded and do a fast restart when B temps hit ~220F? It should be too soon for any real roasting to have begun on the beans, right?

Thanks GCBC folks!
Behmor 1600+
Orphan Espresso Lido E
Moka (6+12), Fr. Press

Offline brianmch

  • Distributor
  • *****
  • Posts: 1411
  • Huky 500 J/ Artisan
Re: Behmor 1600 Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks
« Reply #398 on: June 05, 2019, 06:21:15 AM »

Uh-oh, looks like necrobumping is now getting a warning from the forum software. Hope I'm not stepping on any toes by doing so...

Anyways, the reason I'm posting is because I'm stuck with the Behmor for the foreseeable future (if/when I can start selling ~7# roasted a week, I will consider upgrading), and I've recently found out I can start tasting my roast flaws, so I want to ask for some advice:

1) If I ever do more than about 30 seconds after the start of 1C, I get way too much carbon in the cup for my taste. I don't know how you all write about going after the stop of 1C.

2) Anybody have a rough guide for converstion from B temperature readings to actual bean mass temperatures? Would be nice to be able to ballpark when people on other roasters talk of stopping at 405F or 445F etc.

3) If the bean mass temp DOESN'T supposedly change much when the fan kicks in 75% of the way through the roast, does that mean when I punch P5 on manual to get heat back up, I'm actually screwing over my roast by suddenly jacking up the heat and rate of drying/Maillard reactions?

4) Is there a reason not to do preheating with the beans fully loaded and do a fast restart when B temps hit ~220F? It should be too soon for any real roasting to have begun on the beans, right?

Thanks GCBC folks!

Necrobumping? Wow, the vocab sure has changed.


1) 30 sec past start of 1C carbon. Since you can't measure true bean temps very well on a BM its hard to say what the temps rise to on your machine from 1C to drop.  If you crack the door it'll help as all that smoke is coating your beans and needs to be exhausted. BUT if you open the door too far the BT will crash. 

2) B temp to actual temp conversion guide. I never found one. I know a guy made a way to put a  BT probe into a BM.  He tried to market a couple things but they never took off when I had mine.  Maybe by now his devices have some traction.

3) Use your log to determine what happens to your roast by heat changes.  Your success will be governed by the provided heat and air controls.

4) I think I got baking problems when preheating a bean-loaded drum but it's been a while and I've replace those roasting details in my mind with others. 

If you start tasting roast defects moving on could become a more pressing need.  You'll waste the additional marginal capacity in good beans over the use interim AND spend a lot of time roasting only to get results you're not stoked about.  Both are money.