Green Coffee Buying Club
Coffee Discussion boards => Hardware & Equipment => Topic started by: newroaster on July 05, 2023, 10:45:05 AM
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I always use 2 poppers to roast. I have an older Poplite which works every time, then I use the latest new Poplite right after. The old one never fails but all the new ones keep crashing after a month of use. The poppers are dead cold when I start. The old Poplite never fails, several new Poplites which I keep buying overheat within a month or 2.
Any ideas?
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Some poppers have fusible links that "melt" when the popper gets too hot as opposed to thermal cutout switches which limit maximum temperature. Maybe Poplite switched from a switch to a link. Once the link melts, it must be replaced for the Popper to operate. Mildly shielding the fusible link with a piece of foil often solves the problem, although now you have a potential fire hazard if the shielding is too effective!
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Thanks for your response. It Does go on again in a few minutes. And I now find that it works if I use less beans than with the other older popper. It’s just such a pain bc they used to work for years.
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Ok, so you have a thermal cutoff switch. They may have moved the location of the switch or now use a lower temperature unit. If you are willing to disassemble the popper, it is usually easy to find the thermal sensor - often a button like object with two wires attached placed against the roasting chamber. Any air gap you create between the switch and the chamber wall will help stave off the shutdown. All of my early poppers had this issue. Once the cutoff switch is adjusted to allow a bit more heat, the roasts turned out better and I could run larger batch sizes.
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Tried taking one of these things apart once. I think I was trying to do that. Worked perfectly for the guy on YouTube. Mine was a no go. I can barely change a light bulb, especially now that they’re leds. 😂😂 Thanks though.
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They were getting too many returns for 'issues' from overheating. Ie people who don't read instructions etc, and overloading the thing and making things go BTFU. Gee, people not following instructions, say it ain't SO !!! as the Z glances up from it's phone, annoyed at the 2 seconds you just took away from it calibrating it's selfie stick.
It's a thermal cutout that is tripping. Some coffees are more prone to this. For lack of a better way to put it, some coffee's their surfaces are rather rough and they don't loft / move very well, this creates a bit of a back pressure, which keeps the heat down in the unit more, instead of being expelled up into the beans where it is intended, it overheats and shuts down. Overloading causes this as well.
WARNING: Any adjustments you make to the item will void any warranty and potentially create a hazard, if it does catch fire, is a chaffer as an example, it may NOT shut off properly until all the magic smoke is let out of the wires including inside your walls!
With that being said, you can bypass the thermister, or put a higher value one in there so it trips later, or as mentioned, move it away from the side a bit, but do know air is a wonderful insulator, so even a tiny will make a HUGE difference in shut off temp. You may end up melting things in the long run or drying out fan bushings, premature failure etc etc.
What I had to do with my original I roast when it started acting up is twirl it in a roundy roundy motion when roasting to keep the beans moving around, to help air flow thru it until either they smoothed out enough on their own due to the friction of them roasting OR,... more often than not, the roast was done. or B: roast less at a shot, throw half an oz less / an oz less in there and see how that works.
Naturals are fairly bad at being the scruffy beans, due to their processing method, being LESS processing hence are rougher surfaced.
Play around be be careful and always.
NEVER WALK AWAY FROM A ROAST IN PROGRESS E V E R
Aaron
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Aaron's right about the cutoff switch air gap. Small difference in the gap make a big difference, but it doesn't sound like that is a good solution for you. Aaron's agitation suggestions might be a better fit or I used to use a sifter with a small chimney arrangement to agitate the beans and control the temps better.
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Sadly, I have the chimney already and I do the swirling thing Aaron describes too. It seems now to squeak by without stopping if I use less than a half cup of beans. The old poplite just keeps on chugging even with more than a half cup. Good to know that Aaron had to do these antics with the I- roast too which I was also considering.
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The Popper as a Roaster isn't a whole lot better. Although I have figured out that if I roll heat down 10% about 1/2 way through Malliard it won't overheat right before 1C.
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Hi Brian, Could you explain this in more detail?
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Oh, you’re talking about Sweet Maria’s gizmo?
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Hi Brian, Could you explain this in more detail?
Yes, it is that SM gizmo.
It has variable fan and temp out the chute. I use a watt-meter between the plug and wall to monitor draw.
It's really weird and like the Bullet roaster in that it gets a roast to yellow super fast but runs out of steam getting through Malliard. So, I have to crank it up pretty hard in an effort to get the ratio below yellow. When I run it at 100% though a thermo-safety kicks in and I lose all heat right before going into 1C, but if I run it at say 90% and turn the fan down it won't trip the safety.
Maybe our electrician Aaron will be able to explain this phenomenon. Got to run max heat to get max ROR at the right time, but then there's no headroom for a push after yellow to maintain a high enough ROR.
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Sometimes what may help a bit is what we do when roasting minimal chaff coffee's or Decafs. Leave the chaff from a last batch in the chaff collector so it impedes the air flow a little bit. That will keep the heat in there slightly longer, giving it a slightly longer latency time for it to transfer to the beans.
I used to have this problem with my Behmor often it'd dump on an overheat or some stupid thing right before the end of the roast, and now you just pooched it, because by the time it resets, things cooled down etc etc.
Ideally the air runs in, gets hot, transfers hot to beans, and runs out. but in real life, it transfers the heat everywhere. nearing the end of the roast, the entire unit now is steamy hot, electronics included!, the for lack of a better word, Oven Walls (aka the thermal mass of the roaster) is now at temp and it walks the temp up until you hit the limit on the High Temp Cutout.
If you can open the thing up, NOTE: this may void warranty's etc. If it's an adjustable T stat move it up say 5 degrees. If it's a solid state then you'd have to replace the component with a higher rated one. You could jumper across it but again that is a HAZARD, and unless you KNOW exactly what you are doing, and what could go wrong, I would not recommend it. If it's a metal button that presses on the side of the roasting chamber, if you can slide a piece of aluminum foil between it and the chamber that might give you a few extra degrees to work with, being careful the foil does NOT accidentally touch current carrying pieces and you short / ground something.
Aaron
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Thanks for the suggestions: a tinfoil buffer or a higher rated t-stat for the PAAR.
I've been told (and did once) put a small fan across the control board of the Bullet to keep its brains cool while roasting. It maybe helped.
But honestly these electric roasters don't provide results like gas roasters. Artisans might due to heat capability.
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Yaaarrrggghhh!! Did you guys see my previous post about my extreme difficulty changing light bulbs now with these new fangled LEDs?
Anyway, I just did a roast using a bit less than 1/2 cup and got away with it. The new Poplite didn’t quit. The older Poplite, of course, cranked on perfectly. Roasts are really short though, 3:45. Might try the 50 ft extn. cord again.
SM is supposedly coming out with a new version of the Popper which addresses the overheating problem. They’re calling it a dark roast Popper. They’ve had manufacturing problems and the release date was pushed back to October. Not a real confidence builder.
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Yaaarrrggghhh!! Did you guys see my previous post about my extreme difficulty changing light bulbs now with these new fangled LEDs?
Anyway, I just did a roast using a bit less than 1/2 cup and got away with it. The new Poplite didn’t quit. The older Poplite, of course, cranked on perfectly. Roasts are really short though, 3:45. Might try the 50 ft extn. cord again.
SM is supposedly coming out with a new version of the Popper which addresses the overheating problem. They’re calling it a dark roast Popper. They’ve had manufacturing problems and the release date was pushed back to October. Not a real confidence builder.
If those roasts are super short the Poplite is probably putting out too much heat. Maybe put a small fan under it to cool intake air?
I'm not sure that SM delaying a release of the PAAR should cause heartburn. I'd much rather see a delay to rectify something that doesn't work the way they want it than to just push something out.
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So Brian, you think it’s worth waiting and getting one of the new Poppers in October?
Since my last post, both my old and new Poplites now keep going tits up (overheating). Would a voltage meter or something, (long extn. Cord) do anything here?
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An AC speed controller might help if your Poplites are overheating. I used one on my hot air popper when it was to hot and roasting to fast. I had it wired to the heat element so it didn't effect the fan speed but I think people have had success plugging into one also.
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With that in mind, I think a Rheostat might work wonders as well.
Heating elements can get VERY sensitive to voltage at their upper / operating voltage end. So if it's a 120 element, running at 110 volts or so may drop it's output significantly to fix your problem, however won't really kill the fan too much, it'll run a bit slower but you can easily compensate for that.
Aaron
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So Brian, you think it’s worth waiting and getting one of the new Poppers in October?
Since my last post, both my old and new Poplites now keep going tits up (overheating). Would a voltage meter or something, (long extn. Cord) do anything here?
Like what Jack & Aaron said, a rheostat of some sort is in order (ac fan speed controller, variable light switch dimmer, etc).Those are more controllable than an extension cord. Because ultimately what you're trying to do is limit your variables as much as possible to focus on variables in the bean.
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OK, I see some plug & play 1500 watt rheostats on Amazon. I’ll try that.
Thanks gang!
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I stopped by my local thrift shop yesterday looking for parts to make a vacuum filtering system, and saw TWO older Poplites - one of which looked brand new for less than $5.
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You’re not in Burbank are you? 😀😀
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Well Aaron, et.al., the saga continues. I was about to report that you’d fixed the problem because my last roast a week ago went perfectly. I got a rheostat and set it down to 102, lots of rotating, etc. After a few hits & misses, it then seemed to work consistently w/o overheating. But today, with a thoroughly cooled Poplite and the volt reader on 102 the newer Poplite just overheated & quit…again. Is it just a dud, or are all the new ones duds with a quicker tendency to overheat?
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Honestly I'm not surprised with the inconsistency.
My PAAR has become inconsistent too recently. The fan quit blowing so I had to dis-assemble, clean out, lube, and re-assemble. I've heard of over 1000 roasts on one but I think I may be at 100.
You may need to futz with your Poplite-could be the thermal shutoff is crappy.
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Yeah I tried to futz with one Poplite. It did not end well. I’m thinking they’ve changed something in the sensor bc I’ve gone thru more poppers in the last year than I have since 2009. The Amazon warranty is only 30 days too, a telltale sign of something. Maybe I’ll just wait for the new popper from SM in October.
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So Brian, SM just got back to me re: Popper V2. Delayed till “some time next year.” So, I might try futzing with a Poplite again. I’ve seen videos and I’ll look around again, but do you have any hot tips on how to do this? Also, what’s a Paar?
Thanks,
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So Brian, SM just got back to me re: Popper V2. Delayed till “some time next year.” So, I might try futzing with a Poplite again. I’ve seen videos and I’ll look around again, but do you have any hot tips on how to do this? Also, what’s a Paar?
Thanks,
Paar=Popper as a Roaster.
I've never cracked open a poplite.
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If they are overheating, try cleaning out the roast chamber., Where the temperature thing presses against the metal, if there is crud caked on there from roasting, ie the char and baked on grease, try cleaning that off.
Also, if the fan is running slower because bushings are drying out etc it will overheat.
If nothing else changed and it's overheating the only thing it really can be is a reduced airflow, or faulty sensor for temperature cutting it sooner than it should. do you have an external thermometer you could shove an rtd down in there and see? if it's the fan you are kind of porked, because most of them are bushings not bearings and once they start to dry out, not a hell of a lot you can do. yah you can spray oil on it but it turns into a dirt magnet and it just gums up faster. Disassembly usually makes matters worse, unless you can get another fan or run two in tandem if th ey are getting that crappy.
Another thing to keep in mind, if the heating elements are wearing out, they are not putting enough heat on the beans, so you run it longer trying to get them done, that slow cooks everything, ie the thing is designed to withstand the heat of roasting / popping corn for say 5 minutes, but because the elements are weak,you are now running it for 10 minutes, the heat gets thru, soaks the walls and now it trips on hi temp because you heated EVERYTHING up trying to get the beans done because of insufficient heat being aplied to begin with.
Have you looked at the wattage it takes when you first got it /vs. now? try upping the heat a bit, I know it sounds crazy but give it a try, see if that pushes them thru till done before the high temp kicks you out.
Just a shot but might work.
Aaron
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Aaron, let’s go with “faulty sensor for temperature cutting it sooner than it should”
This Poplite is 5 months old & clean as a whistle. The other, old Poplite just keeps on trucking. But I might have just solved the problem. I snapped up a Poppery II on eBay, $19 bucks, shipping included. We’ll see. Thanks again, all you guys, for your help.
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Hope your new/old popper works well.
My PAAR fan just went kaput so after tearing it apart (again) and trying to get it going the whole thing went in the trash.
Seem's like I'll be on the 'Bay now too.
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Damn! I hope my bad popper luck wasn’t catching. We’ll see how the legendary yet ancient Poppery II does. This never used to be this hard.
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Many new things just seem to be just worthless out of the box post CoVid.
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It's been working it's self there for a while Brian.
That high quality Chineesium they make it out of really holds up don't it? >:D :(
Sadly American made products are not doing much better, only more expensive, and if it's Union made, WAY more expensive.
Aaron
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Just did my first roast with a 15 year old (?) Poppery II I got on eBay. Perfect. You can see the roast happening easily. It roasts a 1/2 cup very evenly, about a minute longer than the Poplite. I’m going to buy all the Poppery II’s on eBay. Just kidding.
But in other news, a guy from Sweet Maria’s just did a video on their new Popper prototype, now to be released next year…hopefully.
https://youtu.be/xm6G55_Jlhc?si=zKMwYFwhys4v7b_a
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Just did my first roast with a 15 year old (?) Poppery II I got on eBay. Perfect. You can see the roast happening easily. It roasts a 1/2 cup very evenly, about a minute longer than the Poplite. I’m going to buy all the Poppery II’s on eBay. Just kidding.
But in other news, a guy from Sweet Maria’s just did a video on their new Popper prototype, now to be released next year…hopefully.
https://youtu.be/xm6G55_Jlhc?si=zKMwYFwhys4v7b_a (https://youtu.be/xm6G55_Jlhc?si=zKMwYFwhys4v7b_a)
I think the link is to a different video.
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Sorry, he’s not actually reviewing the prototype in this. He’s just talking about weight loss during roasting (while using the mock up of their yet to be released popper.)
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Sorry, he’s not actually reviewing the prototype in this. He’s just talking about weight loss during roasting (while using the mock up of their yet to be released popper.)
👍
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Brian, which “Paar” were you using which just died? I just ordered a 2nd Poppery II on eBay.
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Brian, which “Paar” were you using which just died? I just ordered a 2nd Poppery II on eBay.
Oh, I bought it new 2/3 years ago so whatever that one is/was. Thing is I don't think I had over 100 roasts on it.
I'm seriously thinking about an Ikawa to just end-around this nonsense.
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The Ikawa is nice if you want a bunch of whistles and bells and to be able to do the socialist media and share your coffee recipe's with all your f and F but tbh I could not get past the 4k price tag on the thing.
I can do 8 oz on my Artisan 6, all the way up to 10 Lbs on the beast.
I can do 4 oz on my I-Roast (YES I did resurrect them hah!!! )
The Ikawa is a cool little machine but 4grand for a 1 to 2 oz roaster? I can't justify that in my model here.
Aaron
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They make a $1,300 Home version.
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So I now have 2 ancient Poppery II poppers and they’re doing great. Very even roast, 7 min or so. No jiggling, twirling,etc. you just stand there until it’s done.
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I loaned my old one to friend and it keeps chugging along as well, but shhh. Don't tell anyone or the price will double! ;D
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They shoulda rebranded it for coffee…The Roastery II
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Maybe it can have a comeback. With the coffee thing here, no longer just a fad, they'd probably sell a butt ton of them and man the price that thing went for to begin with, that'd explode our community with new home roasters. It'd bring affordability like crazy!
Aaron
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That was the mission of the PAAR. For $100 someone "could" get drinkable 100g roasts.
After the initial surge demand evaporated-probably because it didn't last and couldn't complete its mission. Its developers seem to have decent luck with it but nobody else seems to. I've not heard of anyone here using one besides me and now that mine went to the trash that experiment is over.
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Is it just me or does it seem that people no longer want to experiment, tinker or build things? They just want it handed to them ready to go NO effort on their part?
I remember this forum used to be alive with projects going on all over the place with people tinkering and trying this and that, brewing this and that, and now, hell, if a post is more than 2 sentences long, the tictard generation, TLDR derp.
Maybe Im just grown old, and days way back then when WE pioneered all this shit.... are long gone.
I should pull up my old redneck roaster of 20 years ago if that exists somewhere on the net still just for nostalgia.
Or maybe this weekend just for S and G's I should dust off one of my I roasts and fire off a batch !!
Aaron.
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Lots of folks are building roasters (mostly fluid bed with heat guns and sifters) because they're frustrated with the quality or features of affordable offerings. You can't really monitor bean processes through the roast with the lower priced commercial offerings either which is what folks want.
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The I roast was not really a bad unit for what it was, given the time and the infancy of the roasting world and all, it was not that expensive either really TBH compared to the hot top that was also for sale back then too if I remember correctly. I don't see why someone can't come out with a reasonably priced roaster similar to the I roast. I mean it did work, though it was loud.
Aaron