Perpetual Gillette TTO Super Speed, Straight Razor, & traveling shave den

[Pyment]

I think you overestimate the maintenance required for a straight or open razor.

Once honed, Stropping before use is all you need for most upkeep.  If you have a strop that has both a cloth and a leather component, that is 10 passes with the linen or fabric and about 50 on the leather. I thought that sounded like a lot of passes, but, after a little practice, it happens quickly enough that I kind of notice when I get to around 40 that I am almost done. Because you are doing 50 passes per occasion, practice happens faster and soon you are getting done in under 2-3 mins.

Stropping (done properly) will hold an edge almost indefinitely. If you have a pasted strop, to use every few shaves. you may never have to have to re-hone that razor.

There was a guy who tried to shave with a razor he used a chrome ox pasted strop on 1-2 times a week and had that going for daily shaves for until he (and everyone reading) got bored. More than a year IRRC.

You don't really need to do anything that fancy for it. Folded newsprint (black) makes good stropping materiel.

Of course this presumes you don't do anything stupid to the razor, like using it to open your mail.

Once you finally need to touch up that razor, 10 passes on a barber's hone, Coticule or other finishing hone and you are back in business.

This big issue is that as long as the touch up is done similarly to the original hone job, doesn't involve re-setting the bevel which is where all the real work and tricks come into play.

You just ask the guy who honed it if he taped the spine, with what and how many layers. Most master honers don't tape. I do because I am no master.

So, on the touch ups above, I was the original honer on 2 of them and used tape for the touch up. The other 2 were purchased shave ready. I presumed they were honed without tape and did the touch up the same way.

I did all 4 in about 20 minutes and they all shaved well.

I did part of my shave with each. Enough to make sure they all cut well with no pulling and felt comfortable.

They were dipped in 70% isopropyl and are drying. I'll oil them tomorrow. I may strop them some more at that time.

I will look for a barber hone to slip into the box. There were a few I never got flattened and have to make sure I am not putting one of those in.

[Pyment]

picture comments:

The first pic shows the razors after cleaning them up.

Top is a Bengall which I believe is a brand from Austrailia. It is what might be called a faux frameback. there is a thickened spine like a frame and a flat thin blade. Bengall has a following and is known to be a good shaver. It has a

Second is made by Morely and sons a British maker. It has a "barber's notch". It's classic shape and is much debated as to the function of the notch.  Bottom line is that no one knows.

Third is the Filarmonica made is Spain. This is one of those legendary blades that commands premium prices. Some say crazy prices. This one got bumped from my line up by a bigger prettier less worn sibling. It is a very good shaver.

the final one is the Imp. It is made by an American firm. There is a better picture of it here: http://straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/index.php/Wiss,_J_%26_Sons_%22The_Imp%22_6/8
It has a spike point and shaves well. It is a blade shape that I don't care for because it shows problems in my technique by stabbing me. I find it a less forgiving point, but others love it.

As I have said the Bengall is a faux frameback. I am not sure on the Morley, it may be a light version of a half hollow. The other 2 are full hollow.

All are high carbon steel and rust easily. So it is improtant to dry fully after shaving before storage.

[Pyment]

The hones from left to right:

The first is a Japanese finishing hone for razors. It is from the famous Nakayama mine. And has features of the 2 types of hones the Japanese would use for razors.

After that is another Japanese hone this is a medium fine hone and probably the coarsest of the hones here. It is a suita from the Okudo mine. Okudo and Nakayama are probably the most famous Japanese hone mine. Because it is white it is called shiro. So it is Okudo Shiro Suita. I began my honing with that.

The next one is another Nakayama stone. All of the Japanese hones are found in layers. this one is between the coarser tomae layer and the very fine and hard asagi layer. This is where you would finish with tools and knives.

The next 2 stones are from Belgium. The first is a natural combination of 2 different hones. The darker layer is the coarser Belgian Blue. It is probably a little courser than the suita, but is a slow cutter. That makes it good for therapy (it teaches patience), but the Suita is a much faster hone. The lighter side is a coticule. A faster and finer stone, suitable for finishing. The combination makes it a good stone for touch ups of a straight razor if you were to have just one stone.

The last stone is a tiger coticule with the pink stripes - very unusual and pretty. I haven't used it enough to know exactly where it fits, but is likely a fast finisher.

[Pyment]

Despite the fact that I have a crazy number of hones, it doesn't follow that one NEEDs that many hones.

At one point, I had a goal of having a complete razor sharpening progression composed of natural hones. That meant getting and trying a lot of hones from various sources (from Japan to Wales).

Just like in coffee. How many pour overs and vac pots do you need vs How many does B/Java have?

It kind of reminds me of trying to guess how many gum balls in a jar.

[milowebailey]

Despite the fact that I have a crazy number of hones, it doesn't follow that one NEEDs that many hones.

At one point, I had a goal of having a complete razor sharpening progression composed of natural hones. That meant getting and trying a lot of hones from various sources (from Japan to Wales).

Just like in coffee. How many pour overs and vac pots do you need vs How many does B/Java have?

It kind of reminds me of trying to guess how many gum balls in a jar.

I think the better question is how many pour overs and vac pots does B|Java have that the Czarina knows about!!! 

[BoldJava]

Trimming down.  I have a go-to routine of the KONE/Cilio drilled by Peter and a liter pot.  I will see if I can let some of those loose when we unpack the contents of the boxes in the Cafe, the room adjoining the kitchen.

[Pyment]

I think I am ready to send this to another person. I figured out how to pack the the razors. I just have to find out where I put the strop.

After the discussion on how to sanitize them, I decided to use 70% rubbing alcohol mixed with mineral oil. This way I dip them in and get them sanitary and oiled in one step. The alcohol evaporates and distributes the oil. The oil ends up in little tiny droplets. I just even it out with a (clean) finger without touching the edge.

I can also include some other items if they will fit. If these are going to B/Java I have a special treat for him.

BTW, the title of this thread says straight razor, is there one in there already that I didn't see?

[Pyment]

Trimming down.  I have a go-to routine of the KONE/Cilio drilled by Peter and a liter pot.  I will see if I can let some of those loose when we unpack the contents of the boxes in the Cafe, the room adjoining the kitchen.

You shave with that?

wow.

[GC7]

Someone must have changed the title. There was only the superspeed in there when I received the box.

I have occasional tremors in my hands and especially after caffeine (coffee) so I generally shower and shave before my first coffee in the morning. I was originally concerned using a DE let alone a straight but I'm finding that it's quite easy to keep my face free of any blood and actually almost always irritation free even with my now go to Murkur slant razor.

I'm now very curious about trying a straight. I don't think I would ever use one more then a lazy day per week when I have lots of time. Making these beautiful razors available is really nice of you Pyment.

[Pyment]

I went with function over beauty in choosing razors to include.

Using the straight with a tremor is very possible. I have one and I lay the blade flat against my face the raise it to a 20-30 degree angle before beginning the pass. Remember you are cutting alongside the skin, not scraping.

Same as when you use a safety razor, except with the safety razor, the geometry of the razor holds the edge at the proper angle.

Both cut while moving at a 90 degree angle to the blade. If you move with a slicing action with either edge, you will get cut.

Getting the pressure against the skin correct is important, but you have more leeway than most people imagine. Even so, too much pressure and you get cut.

the angle is critical. Too much and you get cut.

Water does most of the lubrication that makes it possible to slide the edge along the skin. Soap is there to prevent it from drying out. It provides some lubrication, but most is from the water.

[Pyment]

Good idea doing that on the weekend.

That way, if you get a bad cut and people ask you about it on Monday, you can just say "I got that in a bar fight."

works for me!

[Pyment]

BTW, who is next up for this or do I just send it to B/straightrazorshaver?

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk 2

[Pyment]

Resurrecting this thread. My apologies for my absence.

Is peter next up?

If so, that would be an excuse to drive up there and deliver it.

Then I can let him try and figure out how to get it all back in the box.

[GC7]

I think Dave needs to try the straights. I know he wants to 

Interesting looking back at my last posts as I now use the straights almost exclusively and my hand shakes are of little consequence. I've also enjoyed learning to hone my blades.

I'd recommend anyone with a curiosity to try either the DE razor or the straights to take advantage of this opportunity.

[BoldJava]

...

If so, that would be an excuse to drive up there ...

To help the ol' boy cup and disturb him?  Just chatter at him incessantly while he tries to cup.  He used to like it when I did that.


B|Talkative<w>