SC/TO Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks

[RobertL]

Yes sir I've wired mine the same way. A short extension cord is the only thing I missing looks like I'll be heading to Fry's. I tried a longer cord but it was stealing some of my voltage. Thanks for the tips.

[Tex]

Yes sir I've wired mine the same way. A short extension cord is the only thing I missing looks like I'll be heading to Fry's. I tried a longer cord but it was stealing some of my voltage. Thanks for the tips.

I buy the speed controls at Harbor Freight for ~$20. They only last so long before failing, but they're cheap. In fact I've got to run over to the one in Pasadena this weekend, so I'll probably grab a couple more.

[RobertL]

Yes sir I've wired mine the same way. A short extension cord is the only thing I missing looks like I'll be heading to Fry's. I tried a longer cord but it was stealing some of my voltage. Thanks for the tips.

I buy the speed controls at Harbor Freight for ~$20. They only last so long before failing, but they're cheap. In fact I've got to run over to the one in Pasadena this weekend, so I'll probably grab a couple more.

Yeah that's the one I'm using also for $20 you can't beat it.

[farmroast]

Why not find a nice condition american made used reliable Staco 15-20+ amp variac for less than a $100. shipped that will last forever on fleabay and be done with it.  Many are over priced or beat up but great deals happen quite often. 

[Tex]

Why not find a nice condition american made used reliable Staco 15-20+ amp variac for less than a $100. shipped that will last forever on fleabay and be done with it.  Many are over priced or beat up but great deals happen quite often.

I haven't seen one at that price in ages. If anyone sees one let me know. Not interested in Chinese made 10 amp models with 15 - 20 amp fuses.

[RobertL]

Last night I tried to use the router speed control but I think I got a lemon. It works fine on full power, switched it to variable and it won't work unless the knob is turned all the way to high. When I turn it down at all the kill-a-watt reads zero. Tex is this what happens when one fails?

[blzrfn]

The drop off on the RSC is rather quick so with it turned all the way clockwise it should be similar to having the switch set to Full.  Once you start rotating the knob counter-clockwise it will lower quickly.  I haven't used one since I upgraded to the variac (went through three RSCs in two years) but I don't recall going much under the H on the dial on any of them (they are also pretty inconsistent from controller to controller).

[Tex]

Last night I tried to use the router speed control but I think I got a lemon. It works fine on full power, switched it to variable and it won't work unless the knob is turned all the way to high. When I turn it down at all the kill-a-watt reads zero. Tex is this what happens when one fails?

I didn't use the the KAW today, but IIRC after I preheat & drop the beans I set the RSC so the pointer is at the beginning of the H. This is as high as I run for most roasts. To hold at 300° I cut power to the line between Red & Green; same with coasting through 1C.

[RobertL]

Tonight I did some experimenting with my router speed control and kill-a-watt. I'm still having the problem I mentioned before but I have figured out it is not the RSC. I hooked the RSC and KAW up to a fan and had no problems. I adjusted the dial and watched the KAW display change from 125 all the way down. So I hooked everything up the same way to the turbo oven, switch is at variable and the TO was heating I monitored the temp but the KAW will not show a reading. So I know the RSC is working but the KAW won't work with the TO. I know it sounds weird I even tried multiple outlets anyone ever had this problem? I guess I can work around it but I would like to have the KAW reading as a reference.

Last night I tried to use the router speed control but I think I got a lemon. It works fine on full power, switched it to variable and it won't work unless the knob is turned all the way to high. When I turn it down at all the kill-a-watt reads zero. Tex is this what happens when one fails?

I didn't use the the KAW today, but IIRC after I preheat & drop the beans I set the RSC so the pointer is at the beginning of the H. This is as high as I run for most roasts. To hold at 300° I cut power to the line between Red & Green; same with coasting through 1C.

Thanks I can use these reference points since the KAW won't work properly.

[blzrfn]

The kill a watt needs a certain amount of current for it to work properly.  I work around this with mine by plugging it directly into the wall and then the variac into the KAW.  If I have the KAW plugged into the variac it dies at about 650-700 watts (unsure of the voltage as I roast with watts as reference).  Try it this way, if you haven't already and see if it works properly.

[farmroast]

A KAW is pretty accurate above 100v but below that it's not and in the lower 90s will no longer even display.

[RobertL]

An updated picture of my SC/TO and Cooler. I need to permanently attach the ET probe aside from that it is done. The cooler I made out of a bowl and drilled holes in the bottom. I was using a mesh colander but it losing too much vacuum. The new cooler works great I can cool a pound of beans in about a minute before it took 3-4 minutes. 

[grinderz]

Good use of that air purifier. That's the first time I've seen that.

[RobertL]

Good use of that air purifier. That's the first time I've seen that.

Air purifier?  Oh you have a sharp eye, second picture bottom left? That is a space heater for the rare occasion in Texas when it gets cold.

[grinderz]

Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought your bean cooler was made out of a modified hepa air purifier? We've got one that looks kinda similar. It sucks in from the sides and blows it out through the top.