roaster control widget

[grinderz]

Some how I can't see Larry staying up late nights and weekends soldering parts for the kind of money us cheapskates would be willing to pay... While listening to us whine when ours was going to be done.   

[Tex]

Some how I can't see Larry staying up late nights and weekends soldering parts for the kind of money us cheapskates would be willing to pay... While listening to us whine when ours was going to be done.   

Oh, I can see milo doing all this for karma.

[mp]

I may be mistaken, but I don't recall Larry ever committing to making these for anybody else? "Here's a napkin with some notes and a zipped file with some code..."  </evil grin>

I believe he bought his my his Sono as the original test bed for the widget?

There, I corrected it for you.

 

[Tex]

I may be mistaken, but I don't recall Larry ever committing to making these for anybody else? "Here's a napkin with some notes and a zipped file with some code..."  </evil grin>

I believe he bought his my his Sono as the original test bed for the widget?

There, I corrected it for you.

 

Stirring up trouble again, eh Mikey!

[mp]

I may be mistaken, but I don't recall Larry ever committing to making these for anybody else? "Here's a napkin with some notes and a zipped file with some code..."  </evil grin>

I believe he bought his my his Sono as the original test bed for the widget?

There, I corrected it for you.

 

Stirring up trouble again, eh Mikey!

I just couldn't stop myself. You're set up was just perfect!

 

[mikepetro]

The Milowidget controls all functions of the Hottop (motor, fan, heater, damper and cooling motor).  Keypad and display both interface well now.

By "damper" are you referring to the solenoid that opens the eject chute?

I am very interested in this. Would you be willing to share the pinouts of the Hottop ribbon cable? Is there a different input for each fan speed, or is it PWC?  Ive been considering something similar to this with my Hottop using an Idec SmartRelay and a PID controller. I installed the same combo in my Lady Silvia with awesome results.

If you ever do choose to distribute your design please let me know, I will belly up for one. I fully understand all risk and liability resides with me. It might motivate to learn the whole arduino thing, I have been hearing a lot about it and the TC4.

[milowebailey]

I ran a test last night to see how fast the hottop can get 200 grams of green to 1st crack.

I used a harrar I had. 

Preheat to 175 for 5 minutes, charge roaster, bean temp dropped to 140.  1st crack was ~10:30 later with bean temp @345.

Seems my bean probe is either too slow or inaccurate, but as long as I know ~ where 1st crack will happen I can set the profile to that point.

I'm going to try 100 grams next to see if I can accurately bring that to 345 in 10:30 also.

Then onto tweaking the code to stabilize the roast.

to answer mikepetro's question, yes damper is the solenoid that ejects the beans.

Pinout is as follows, all 5v logic from the control board.

[mikepetro]

First, thank you Milow!

I am a bit stumped though, what is the INT input, and how is the fan speed controlled?

BTW, if anyone is interested in how I refurbished and enhanced my Silvia espresso machine,
go to http://www.mikepetro.org/coffee/ (please excuse the crude html, I am out of practice).

[JimG]

The INT signal is an AC zero cross indicator. The Hottop B uses this for phase angle heater control.  Not sure what purpose it serves on the P models?

Jim

[milowebailey]

The INT signal is an AC zero cross indicator. The Hottop B uses this for phase angle heater control.  Not sure what purpose it serves on the P models?

Jim

It's not on all the hottop models, I included it in the interface board so the option is there to control the heater power level.  Just software if the zero crossing signal is there.  For other models I might build a board that would detect the AC... but that's probably version 4 or 5.

My Hottop does not have that feature.

[JimG]

My Hottop does not have that feature.

Same here. Mine is an older D model. It doesn't even carry the INT signal in its connector cable.

Jim

[az erik]

I fit in so well here I figure if this gets off the ground a little code swap and you could use it to turn on a S1, or count pulls, if that's your sort of thing


Sent from my iPhone5 using Tapatalk so pardon my spelling.

[rgrosz78]

I ran a test last night to see how fast the hottop can get 200 grams of green to 1st crack.

I used a harrar I had. 

Preheat to 175 for 5 minutes, charge roaster, bean temp dropped to 140.  1st crack was ~10:30 later with bean temp @345.

Isn't using 175 a bit on the low side? I use three drop temps, depending on how fast I want to roast: 215, 265 and 300. I normally roast 265g - easily gain a minute using 260 versus 215.

[milowebailey]

I ran a test last night to see how fast the hottop can get 200 grams of green to 1st crack.

I used a harrar I had. 

Preheat to 175 for 5 minutes, charge roaster, bean temp dropped to 140.  1st crack was ~10:30 later with bean temp @345.

Isn't using 175 a bit on the low side? I use three drop temps, depending on how fast I want to roast: 215, 265 and 300. I normally roast 265g - easily gain a minute using 260 versus 215.

I don't know... the hottop from the factory has a 160 degree drop temperature...   I plan to play with that and see where tipping happens

[az erik]

Bad thing is storing a profile will make you want to keep track of your drop points. I currently have 2 profiles I use, Warm and not warm. Everything else is still fully manual for me other than the drying around 290 to 315 (70% stall with an on 1).