SC/TO Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks

[peter]

If you can find the thermostat, that's a good place to splice in the switch.  On a SC, the power coming in goes to the thermostat.

[SusanJoM]

If you can find the thermostat, that's a good place to splice in the switch.  On a SC, the power coming in goes to the thermostat.

Okay, so that means I'm gonna have to take off another layer of "skin"....
Back later.

Susan

[barko78]

If you can find the thermostat, that's a good place to splice in the switch.  On a SC, the power coming in goes to the thermostat.

Okay, so that means I'm gonna have to take off another layer of "skin"....
Back later.

Susan

You should be able to access the thermostat without any more un-doing. 
There should be a wire that travels to a round thingy about the diameter of a nickel.  It will have the quick disconnect type electrical connection.  That's the thermostat that Peter is referring to.  One wire goes in and the other leaves to the heater.

[SusanJoM]

Okay, I'm really embarassed here, but will someone look at my picture  -- a few posts back  -- and tell me if that silver "thing" in the very middle of the bottom (which is rather larger than a nickel) is the thermostat I'm looking for....

And don't tell anyone......       

[peter]

You should be able to access the thermostat without any more un-doing. 
There should be a wire that travels to a round thingy about the diameter of a nickel.  It will have the quick disconnect type electrical connection.  That's the thermostat that Peter is referring to.  One wire goes in and the other leaves to the heater.

Susan has a Salton bottom unit, and will be different than the SC.

That's what you get for listening to Tex, Susan.  

By the looks of it, you'll move the motor out of the way and undo those 4 nuts so that that silver panel can come off.

[SusanJoM]

That's what you get for listening to Tex, Susan.  

Oh.....you have no idea......

[SusanJoM]

Okay.....I'm in.....
Now I'm on terra firma again......

I'm assuming that now I can just take the two wires to and from the thermostat (which I now recognize for what it is) and put the wires from the toggle switch in it's place in the sequence....

Right?

[peter]

The black wire going from the white ceramic-looking terminal to the pink thermostat...  take it off at the white thing.  Attach that end to the switch.  Then run a wire from the other side of the switch to the white thing.



Nice pixors BTW.

[SusanJoM]

Ah, so the thermostat stays in the loop, but the switch goes between it and the heater....??

Boy oh boy.....

Slow learner here....

Thanks

Susan

[peter]

Yes, the T-stat stays in, if only as a safety feature.

You can switch before or after the T-stat.  It's just easier to take the wire off the white terminal block, than it is to put the switch between the T-stat and the heating element.

[Tex]

That's what you get for listening to Tex, Susan.  

No one ever got into trouble for listening to me.
Doing what I say is another matter entirely!

[SusanJoM]

Okay, got it.  I just drilled a hole in the outer shell so I can put the on-off switch (to the popper heater) just to the left of the power on off switch.

Now, one more question.  Any reason I have to go and find "spades" for the wiring, or can I just twist wires together and put electrical tape over the junctions.....?

Susan

[SusanJoM]

That's what you get for listening to Tex, Susan.  

No one ever got into trouble for listening to me.
Doing what I say is another matter entirely!

[/size]

A distinction I have often forgotten to heed.......:-))))))

Susan

[Tex]

Okay, got it.  I just drilled a hole in the outer shell so I can put the on-off switch (to the popper heater) just to the left of the power on off switch.

Now, one more question.  Any reason I have to go and find "spades" for the wiring, or can I just twist wires together and put electrical tape over the junctions.....?

Susan

Wire-nuts would be better.

[dmankin]

Susan,

From your earlier picture, your chaff ejection slot may be a bit too narrow.  You won't know until you give it a try, but to my eyes, you'll need it to be wider.

If you do make it wider, there's a chance that beans will then try to creep out the slot as they are stirred.  My solution was to make a little retaining wall at the slot's opening - just a half inch tall - that kept the beans in, but allowed the chaff out.  Simple.

Looks like you're well on your way to your first UFO/TO roast.

I've prepared a quick how-to document.  I'll see if it will work here.  If not, I'll send it to you.

Great work on this project, Susan - as always!   

David