Green Coffee Buying Club
Coffee Discussion boards => Hardware & Equipment => Topic started by: John F on January 21, 2015, 09:33:22 AM
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Along with the group buy thread I'll sticky this thread.
I think I'll post my quick vid of the perf drum siding damper to kick off the thread and so it doesn't get lost.
Huky 500 perf drum: http://youtu.be/J7rsvgCZNJk (http://youtu.be/J7rsvgCZNJk)
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That is pretty trick. Is there a lever that lets you control it?
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Yes.
The wood handle by the motor opens/closes the damper.
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I received zippo instructions, so we're on our own to figure things out...I just wanted to start sortova checklist from unboxing to final assembly and function (I'll update this post as I discover things).
1) Unbox and unwrap everything, as an opportunity to inventory, and identify each component. (what does this thermocouple do?)
2) Match the delivered order to your original order: ask fellow members if in doubt, but email Mr. Li with any obvious oversights.
2) Install bean door: Locate the supplied hinge and screws, and the supplied food grade lubricant (HUKY label!) and inject a glob of lube on the END of the installed hinge (left). Smear a bit on the end of the door rod, and insert the door rod into the fixed hinge. Temporarily align the free hinge (now on the right) to the groove on the door rod. Carefully check alignment of the hinge holes to the tapped holes in Huky's faceplate. Alignment will require sliding the rod further into the left hinge until the free hinge and holes line up. Once it looks aligned, remove the free hinge, and smear and drop a glob of the lubricant in its groove. Insert the two screws into the hinge and carefully replace the hinge onto the rod. With a free hand, use the torx driver supplied, and prepare to drive the screws once alignement has been attained. Loose at first until both screws are started, gently screw the hinge until secure. 'Two fingers' tight should be enough..AVOID stripping the threads in Huky's faceplate.
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I wondered what that lubricant syringe was for.
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I wondered what that lubricant syringe was for.
Not gonna touch that one! ;)
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I wondered what that lubricant syringe was for.
Not gonna touch that one! ;)
Thanks man, now I have to get that image out of my mind....
So has any of you goofballs actually performed a roast? Or is the putting it together part really hard?
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I could have roasted 10 min out of the box but I'm in no hurry. I'm building mine up bit by bit to exactly what I want and I don't even have my data wire (might get here today), exhaust plan (talked to my hvac buddy an hour ago), or the table I'm going to build on...probably going to Ikea soon.
No rush.
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I could have roasted 10 min out of the box but I'm in no hurry. I'm building mine up bit by bit to exactly what I want and I don't even have my data wire (might get here today), exhaust plan (talked to my hvac buddy an hour ago), or the table I'm going to build on...probably going to Ikea soon.
No rush.
You are killing me....Burn a batch!
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Nope... blingy tricked out set up is on the way.
It can't be rushed but you should start thinking about selling your Sono. :P
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You are a bucket of patience.. No way I could have waited that long
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You are a bucket of patience.. No way I could have waited that long
I did 2 batches on the Hottop yesterday... I'll survive until I get the Huky "just so".
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The "in-thing" with the Huky when you get it:
1. roast a few batches up front, with intention to pooch the roast. The inside of the drum will season after multiple roasts.
2. Consider seasoning the outside of the drum, if you have a solid one - this means taking it apart, wipe a little oil on it, and heat it up in the oven or BBQ like a cast iron pan. This apparently provides a little better control (heat absorption).
3. The lubricant is also for the bearings. You'll want to put a little dab there once in a while.
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Any way you cam post a pic of where the bearings are at/where you apply at?
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Any way you cam post a pic of where the bearings are at/where you apply at?
John..don't need to remove the drum to season it..just the shroud. slather some flax oil into your palm, turn on the motor, and place your hand under the drum and follow its rotation. You'll have it covered thickly in no time. Then, add the shroud back (careful of scratches!), button him up, and put over a burner on the stove and heat it to near 400F. Done.
The friction points are really the door hinges..but should you remove your drum...a smear on the end of a drum before you insert the support rod into the front bearing isn't a bad thing..but the bearing itself does the 'work'. :)
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Wideasleep1: he was asking about the bearings, not the seasoning.
John F: Kuanho sent me these pictures ages ago when I had the same question.. not sure if it's the same now, however, should give you an idea. There are two, one at the front, one at the back of the unit at the body/motor intersection.
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I hadn't looked closely. Surprised they're not sealed bearings. ???
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Yeah....I'm not going to season the drum but I will take care of those bearings.
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Just did my first test run with no data logging or anything just to get a feel for things.
The stock ir stove and regulator seem pretty powerful. 8)
300g to FC in 8 min SC at ~10min on minimal gas or fan power 17 degree F ambient temp.
Interesting note...I never even thought of using the trier. The window is right there.
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Nice, how was the cup?
Man I would have had about 100 roasts done by now..
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I used a bean I'm not digging much to test with so it's hard to say.
I'm in no hurry with the Huky. It's gonna be perfect once I get it all set up. 8)
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I still haven't set my Huky up yet but felt like trying a 500g batch.
It looks great but it went a little long at 16min. Next time I'll bring on the heat a bit faster.
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Are you roasting pretty regularly now? That picture actually is the best that I have seen for the configuration. Make a video.
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This thread seems to have gone cold. How are you all doing with your Huky? Is this still a viable option?
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I am still very happy with mine.
The only reason I would use anything else is if I needed a much larger batch size.
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This thread seems to have gone cold. How are you all doing with your Huky? Is this still a viable option?
I enjoy roasting on my Huky and the coffee it produces but it is not with its quirks. If you're a hands on type of person you'll love it, if you're a set and forget person it's not for you. I noticed in another thread you mentioned you're considering a Sonofresco or a Kaldi roaster, two completely different roasting experiences. The Sono is a one button set and forget roast from what I understand versus the Kaldi is a hands on roaster. Have you thought about that or does that matter to you?
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Good point.
I'm a hands on roster so even as I purchased all the probes, got Artisan, and reviewed 100 graphs I immediately threw all that our the window and only use the analog temp and a timer. I adjust everything on the fly manually.
I could use 3 digital probes and Artisan roast charts if I wanted but ultimately it's not my thing. Eyes, ears, nose, and a clock are my jam. 8)
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Good point.
I'm a hands on roster so even as I purchased all the probes, got Artisan, and reviewed 100 graphs I immediately threw all that our the window and only use the analog temp and a timer. I adjust everything on the fly manually.
I could use 3 digital probes and Artisan roast charts if I wanted but ultimately it's not my thing. Eyes, ears, nose, and a clock are my jam. 8)
If I was ever to get a manual drum I don't think I would go the graph Artisan route myself. I like what John says.
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Thanks guys!
I guess I'm at the point where I don't want hands off, but don't really feel like tinkering too much :D
I've roasted on so many different roasters/gizmos. I've been annoying the ease of use of the Gene but it's died for the third time now, so it's time for an upgrade.
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Huky arrived 2 weeks ago and I've got about 6 roasts on it.
I was pretty attentive to look and smell on the Behmor (as best as it will allow) and have been having pretty good success. No wasted batches yet!
I'm super happy with the Huky's power/heat AND heat flexibility, plus the fan/cooling situation, and the lack of down-time between batches.
The B was a very good intro to roasting and I learned a lot from using it for 2 years.
Input, hints, tricks, and recipes are welcome replies. I got it 2nd hand and don't have a 2nd fan. Also have only 1 digi probe.
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Welcome to the Huky family! I wish there were more Huky owners and Huky conversations here! Especially since I'm no longer allowed to hang around on the Huky forum. :o ;D
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Welcome to the Huky family! I wish there were more Huky owners and Huky conversations here! Especially since I'm no longer allowed to hang around on the Huky forum. :o ;D
I was going to wait and see who would bite...It's been a couple days and I have to know. What happened at the Huky forum?
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If it's like many of the other forums, he probably forgot to bow down at the right moment or looked someone directly in the eye or something as equally ... vapid.
Aaron
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If it's like many of the other forums, he probably forgot to bow down at the right moment or looked someone directly in the eye or something as equally ... vapid.
Aaron
yeah I bet they will be quick to forgive transgressions as well if that is the case.
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If it's like many of the other forums, he probably forgot to bow down at the right moment or looked someone directly in the eye or something as equally ... vapid.
Aaron
yeah I bet they will be quick to forgive transgressions as well if that is the case.
Huh? An implication of douche-baggery?
Anyway, it seems like there isn't much talk on the dedicated Huky Forum either. There are a few guides, some purchase tips, and some other stuff, but its not very active. Much of it the conversation occurs in the HB roasting area where folks are posting their profiles and discussing the Flick which I haven't learned about yet.
I'm guessing some of the talk is on WasteBook which I don't use.
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There's a variety of different profiles on the Huky forum to experiment with. They differ somewhat depending on the drum style, perforated or solid. And there are excellent Artisan setup guides.
Just like other forums, questions can be repetitive; especially for folks ordering/using a Huky for the first time or advancing from a popper.
A better way to use that forum is to post a graph from Artisan, list the settings used on a Huky stove including air control, along with problems or defects. If you found a killer roast profile the same can be done.
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Dedicated forum? You know it's just a bunch of familiar faces in the various forums that basically decided to buy a Huky and then start a forum. It's not a forum that has any input from the manufacturer in Taiwan.
But on the suggestion of DB's, knowing some of the individuals involved and their very consistent personalities....yeah that's probably unavoidable ;)
The shocker is that Robert is/was in the inner circle...that's what i am curious about. Susan (one of the co-creators) quit at one point and now I guess she is back in.
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There's a variety of different profiles on the Huky forum to experiment with. They differ somewhat depending on the drum style, perforated or solid. And there are excellent Artisan setup guides.
Just like other forums, questions can be repetitive; especially for folks ordering/using a Huky for the first time or advancing from a popper.
A better way to use that forum is to post a graph from Artisan, list the settings used on a Huky stove including air control, along with problems or defects. If you found a killer roast profile the same can be done.
That is what I was thinking. I have been manually logging as I don't have Artisan. Just converted some of my roasts to graphs. In doing so I notified a steep uptick right before 1c when I had already turned the gas off in 2 graphs.
Is 1c pretty quiet usually? The Huky is louder than the Behmor.
How well does the cooling tray fit the fan? I have suction that I want to eliminate but have to be able to remove the tray.
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Dedicated forum? You know it's just a bunch of familiar faces in the various forums that basically decided to buy a Huky and then start a forum. It's not a forum that has any input from the manufacturer in Taiwan.
But on the suggestion of DB's, knowing some of the individuals involved and their very consistent personalities....yeah that's probably unavoidable ;)
The shocker is that Robert is/was in the inner circle...that's what i am curious about. Susan (one of the co-creators) quit at one point and now I guess she is back in.
You're right about Susan being back. I don't agree with the way she runs the site, I don't think it's conducive to learning and sharing. She kind of freaked out after I mentioned offering a few pounds of greens to the group for roasting, learning and sharing profiles. That was the last straw for me so I deleted all of my post and quit visiting the site. Once she noticed my deleted post she sent me an email explaining my profile was deleted and I had been banned. Oh well...
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Dedicated forum? You know it's just a bunch of familiar faces in the various forums that basically decided to buy a Huky and then start a forum. It's not a forum that has any input from the manufacturer in Taiwan.
But on the suggestion of DB's, knowing some of the individuals involved and their very consistent personalities....yeah that's probably unavoidable ;)
The shocker is that Robert is/was in the inner circle...that's what i am curious about. Susan (one of the co-creators) quit at one point and now I guess she is back in.
You're right about Susan being back. I don't agree with the way she runs the site, I don't think it's conducive to learning and sharing. She kind of freaked out after I mentioned offering a few pounds of greens to the group for roasting, learning and sharing profiles. That was the last straw for me so I deleted all of my post and quit visiting the site. Once she noticed my deleted post she sent me an email explaining my profile was deleted and I had been banned. Oh well...
Sorry to hear that.
if it makes you feel any better she was banned from our site after years of "histrionics ;D" despite John and my best efforts to calm the drama. She was given a choice and she requested that we delete her account. So it's not really a surprise. Still sucks though so I am really sorry you are having to deal with that. I see there is a lot changing in the sectarian groups that basically all lead back to Home-Barista/Coffeegeek/Sweet Maria's.
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oh you just HAD to squeeze in that H word Joe huh 8)
If it makes you feel better, I was kicked out of a few of the forums myself. I guess they couldn't just handle my charming personality.
Basically ive noticed that most of them, it's like North Korea, if you disagree with dear leader, you get summarily executed.
Most of the 'tolerant' leadership you see in those places are the same types you see at Berkley throwing rocks and setting cars on fire.
Aaron
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Hahaha you know it. I have been released from two forums and i am definitely persona non grata at a couple more...all happen to be connected to the same "leaders"
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There's a variety of different profiles on the Huky forum to experiment with. They differ somewhat depending on the drum style, perforated or solid. And there are excellent Artisan setup guides.
Just like other forums, questions can be repetitive; especially for folks ordering/using a Huky for the first time or advancing from a popper.
A better way to use that forum is to post a graph from Artisan, list the settings used on a Huky stove including air control, along with problems or defects. If you found a killer roast profile the same can be done.
That is what I was thinking. I have been manually logging as I don't have Artisan. Just converted some of my roasts to graphs. In doing so I notified a steep uptick right before 1c when I had already turned the gas off in 2 graphs.
Is 1c pretty quiet usually? The Huky is louder than the Behmor.
How well does the cooling tray fit the fan? I have suction that I want to eliminate but have to be able to remove the tray.
I started roasting with my used Huky without datalogging and using the built in damper. First change was to add in a cheap light dimmer and calibrate it with an anemometer. That worked fine until I tried hooking up Artisan. The "flick" at the end of the roast is another debate, if one turns off the gas that usually takes care of it. Also dropping at the end of 1C solves it as well.
An easy profile to use is what I call a 4-3-2-1 using 454g. Charge at 160-180c at .5 kPa and low air. At the TP crank up the gas to 4kPa, at 150c reduce to 3kPa, 160c 2kPa, 170c 1kPa, 180c 1-.5kPa, 190c (as necessary), 1c (increase air). It's a declining ROR type profile for a filter roast; if one is roasting longer the gas can be temporarily increased/bumped up at 180c to give momemtem at boost.
The Huky was originally designed for a single fan, and required a lot of switching around at the end of the roast. Having two or three screens would make it easier as well. Also the router controller has proved to be a better air controller than the dimmer and is supposed to work with Artisan.
Doesn't sound like your having any issues with the fan, it can be blocked up a little if necessary; and the vent bowl is a useful accessory. The little motor in the back is noisy, holds up pretty well for a 17$ part.
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I started roasting with my used Huky without datalogging and using the built in damper. First change was to add in a cheap light dimmer and calibrate it with an anemometer. That worked fine until I tried hooking up Artisan. The "flick" at the end of the roast is another debate, if one turns off the gas that usually takes care of it. Also dropping at the end of 1C solves it as well.
An easy profile to use is what I call a 4-3-2-1 using 454g. Charge at 160-180c at .5 kPa and low air. At the TP crank up the gas to 4kPa, at 150c reduce to 3kPa, 160c 2kPa, 170c 1kPa, 180c 1-.5kPa, 190c (as necessary), 1c (increase air). It's a declining ROR type profile for a filter roast; if one is roasting longer the gas can be temporarily increased/bumped up at 180c to give momemtem at boost.
The Huky was originally designed for a single fan, and required a lot of switching around at the end of the roast. Having two or three screens would make it easier as well. Also the router controller has proved to be a better air controller than the dimmer and is supposed to work with Artisan.
Doesn't sound like your having any issues with the fan, it can be blocked up a little if necessary; and the vent bowl is a useful accessory. The little motor in the back is noisy, holds up pretty well for a 17$ part.
I got a light dimmer and have it wired in Will have to look up an anemometer (I guess that is a wind-speed meter).
Thanks for the recipe you provided Hank. Appreciated! I have been drinking pour-over, spro shots, and either flash brew or Toddy. I've been dropping the temp before 1C but with manual graphing it's easier to see when/where I need to drop it sooner.
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Personally, sometimes I think people put too much geekery into roasting coffee. Yes there are basic things you need to do / need to know but knowing your temperature down to half a degree, dragged out 5 decimal points... is it really that important? Ohhh NOOOO, my soak time went 2.8 seconds longer this roast and the drum turned 3/4 of a turn less this roast than last roast. Sometimes I think the OCD that people can develop with having gigabytes of numbers can make them lose site of the hobby and how to actually roast coffee. I liken it to the retards you see working the cash registers at McDonalds, they can press a button correctly most of the time, but god help you if the power goes out, or the calculator messes up, they don't even know how to make simple change. Don't get yourself so lost in your little microcosym of self perceived perfection that you lose sense on how the process works. By the time you finally figure out how to 'nail that perfect roast'... two pounds later, your stash is gone, and all that perfect timing will NOT carry over to the next origin of beans you buy.
Aaron
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not quite how I would put it but Aaron's point is a good one. In Beer brewing people get all crazy about certain things like no plastic buckets, or cleaning with brillo pads will cause scratches that let bacteria grow...When I learned to brew I had all these fears based on group think, marketing, and OCD theory that basically made my beer worse than when I finally heard from Skip Virgilio to use brillo pads, sanitize and use buckets...Beer was amazing using the "forbidden methods" Skip said it best - Home Brewers get worked up about a whole lot of stuff that has nothing to do with making good beer. Home roasters are the same, it's perpetuated by places like Home Barista that have a culture that really gets into the minutia of processes. I have found some awesome info through H-B but then you have to wade through all the "experts" who know everything about everything and are HB hero's to get to the one actual thing that helps you in any real way.
The "flick" and "Rao book say's", "here is my graph, what went wrong?" stuff makes me remember the Plastic buckets are evil stuff from home brewers.
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I'm not even going to get into some of the brewing conditions on some of the Navy ship's I've been on. Oh snap, I didn't just say that did I? :D
In case some of my old skippers are here; "Just Kidding Sir!".
Bubba's Bilge Wine anyone?
Oh and yah Joe, that totally hits the nail on the head. If you don't do it MY way then you are doing it wrong! They should rename the forum Home Brewing with the Borg.
Aaron
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Brian, do you mean dropping before first crack or second crack? Dropping before the onset of first crack is possible I've heard, not had any luck the few times it was tried. Nothing wrong with manual roasting (no recording), if one has a routine established. Otherwise, it's good to chart the roasts on paper and play around with heat/air changes. Here's a Huky roast, first one in over 6 months using the 4-3-2-1 heat reductions strategy. With the dimmer, the first detent is @ 25% air; you can use your hand to figure out where 50% is. Over 50% air with the Huky risks sucking the beans up the pipe, still can be used if necessary. Low air slows the ROR, medium air increases ROR, and high air reduces ROR; this can be seen when using Artisan and some sort of air control. I would try using a low air setting for most of the roast until just before 1C, then increased air for the remainder.
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Aaron & Joe,
I've been down the OCD rabbit hole on a few things and know the detriments of doing so. I have a little bit of it in my personality but believe that the Nth degree is unnecessary at this point. I try to find out what works pretty well, what it takes to get it to get there, simplify it where possible, and continue to apply it. It can sound like accepting mediocrity, but I don't get any pleasure from chasing the last 20%. Diminishing returns and all that.
Which is why I appreciate Hank's Huky suggestions which have sped the learning curve. That roaster is much more powerful regarding heat and air compared to the Behmor so I need to learn how to use those tools and I choose to do so efficiently. A solid recipe is a great starting point for me. The graphs through Artisan or MSexcel CAN BE a path to OCD or they can be used with my God given sensory organs to appropriately shorten the learning curve.
Hank:
I don't drop a roast before 1C starts. I've been going a little long during 1C but its been okay overall. Nothing burnt or roasty.
What are the milestones for the 4-3-2-1 heat reductions? Airflow has been "low". I've got 3 settings by ear. I've been cranking it up towards the end of the roast as the heat tends to climb pretty quick and I want to slow that a little.
I've been getting to yellowing pretty fast but stretching that and browning out. I can't keep my heat up (say 2.5 to 3) as long as in your graph and have it stay green. Temp changes have been roughly 20F every 1 min. Roasts in the 9.30 to 11:30 range. Next efforts will be to slow the change to yellow so I'll be going easier on the heat to start.
Thanks all.
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OK, so we have the mixup about 1C cleared up; your dropping somewhere between 1C and 2C. I personally don't follow the Rao 20% as its kind of complicated, if one uses the other finishing parameters (total roast time, final BT, and roast development time after 1C).
The profile I was referring to (4,3,2,1) charges somewhere 160-180c looking for @ 80-90c turning point (@1:30) then 4kPa till EOD @150c. 160c-3kPa, 170c-2kPa, 180c-1kPa, etc. There are two other profiles talked about, GregR's espresso profile and another that's hot and fast (need to look that one up). The hot and fast profile uses a high ROR to compensate for a shorter total roast time. You can also use a fixed gas setting and make a final adjustment pre-1C around 180-190c.
A normal time to yellow or EOD is 5-6 minutes, 4-5 minute ramp, 1:30 to whatever finish. I think Greg might have a shorter EOD time and longer finish @ 2:30 RD. He also ramps up the heat pre-1C temporarily to increase momentum and cuts the gas at some point coasting to drop.
My opinion, the turning point temperature dictates how much heat it's going to take/time for the first leg to yellow/EOD. Having a consistant TP for the charge weight/profile used helps keeping on track with one's plan.
If you want to extend the time to yellow, try charging at a lower temperature. 160c is only 320f, but you would have to get the Huky lower (if your switching from funnel to pipe) then wait till the BT climbed to the correct temperature.
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OK, so we have the mixup about 1C cleared up; your dropping somewhere between 1C and 2C. I personally don't follow the Rao 20% as its kind of complicated, if one uses the other finishing parameters (total roast time, final BT, and roast development time after 1C).
The profile I was referring to (4,3,2,1) charges somewhere 160-180c looking for @ 80-90c turning point (@1:30) then 4kPa till EOD @150c. 160c-3kPa, 170c-2kPa, 180c-1kPa, etc. There are two other profiles talked about, GregR's espresso profile and another that's hot and fast (need to look that one up). The hot and fast profile uses a high ROR to compensate for a shorter total roast time. You can also use a fixed gas setting and make a final adjustment pre-1C around 180-190c.
A normal time to yellow or EOD is 5-6 minutes, 4-5 minute ramp, 1:30 to whatever finish. I think Greg might have a shorter EOD time and longer finish @ 2:30 RD. He also ramps up the heat pre-1C temporarily to increase momentum and cuts the gas at some point coasting to drop.
My opinion, the turning point temperature dictates how much heat it's going to take/time for the first leg to EOC. Having a consistant TP for the charge weight/profile used helps keeping on track with one's plan.
If you want to extend the time to yellow, try charging at a lower temperature. 160c is only 320f, but you would have to get the Huky lower (if your switching from funnel to pipe) then wait till the BT climbed to the correct temperature.
I think I have been charging too hot, around 400f. When doing that I noticed that my time to yellow was much faster than the time/color pics on a Sweet Maria's visual guide. Will charge cooler and see how it goes. Will also play with your temp timings and see how it goes.
Thanks Hank!
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The "hot and fast" was recently mentioned over at HB by Mark (creative nickname) in reference to roasting Ethiopian coffee; also worth trying for a fruit bomb. On the Huky the air needs to be increased a bit past the low setting to raise the ROR for better heat transfer.
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The "hot and fast" was recently mentioned over at HB by Mark (creative nickname) in reference to roasting Ethiopian coffee; also worth trying for a fruit bomb. On the Huky the air needs to be increased a bit past the low setting to raise the ROR for better heat transfer.
I don't actually think I was trying to go hot and fast on purpose...I have been using a Behmor the last 2.5 years and I had to get it near max heat before charge in order to have a reasonably short roast time. I was somehow under the impression that 400F was the recommended standard charge temp in the Huky. Probably didn't pay attention to standard charge temps posted in the Artisan graphs.
BUT, I do have some super fruity Ethio Yirg and will try it both ways to see what works best! Thanks for the link!
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the other finishing parameters (total roast time, final BT, and roast development time after 1C).
The profile I was referring to (4,3,2,1) charges somewhere 160-180c looking for @ 80-90c turning point (@1:30) then 4kPa till EOD @150c. 160c-3kPa, 170c-2kPa, 180c-1kPa, etc.
A normal time to yellow or EOD is 5-6 minutes, 4-5 minute ramp, 1:30 to whatever finish.
I did a couple roasts today using the above: one was a Guat Atitlan and the other a Rwanda Dukunda. Total times were 13 and 12 min respectively with no 2C and roast levels of FC+ or so. I've roasted about 20lb of the Guat through a Behmor and had a pretty good handle on it so I'm excited to try it from the Huky using a solid starter formula. I roasted one batch of it by the seat of my pants. Wasn't "bad" but was sorta "meh".
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HANKUA:
I tried a couple 400 gram roasts with the gas cut to minimum then cranking it up to 4 @ TP (appx 1:30). Charge temp 180.
Gas was cut to 3/2/1 at 150/160/170. Both seemed to go a looonnnggg time on 1 before 1C. 1C was appx 2 min and the roasts were a very pretty C++/FC.
Total roast times were 14 and 15 min, respectively. Are roasts to be that long? The coffee is good but I'm wondering if it would be better if it were a little shorter. I was talking to a roaster who was 9:30 for C++/FC (light and fruity) and 11:30 for FC+(sweeter and darker).
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What was your EOD time, ramp to 1C time? How was the air flow adjusted?
There shouldn't be any trouble hitting 1C at 9 minutes, my setup has the old extended J-pipe, variac controlling the fan, and a short exhaust pipe.
You can also try shifting the profile and holding the 4kPa longer, a little more air will also increase the ROR. The idea being to get the ROR maxed out and then taper it down.
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What was your EOD time, ramp to 1C time? How was the air flow adjusted?
There shouldn't be any trouble hitting 1C at 9 minutes, my setup has the old extended J-pipe, variac controlling the fan, and a short exhaust pipe.
You can also try shifting the profile and holding the 4kPa longer, a little more air will also increase the ROR. The idea being to get the ROR maxed out and then taper it down.
If by EOD you mean time until beans begin to yellow it's 7 and 8 minutes, appx 150C, at which time I turn gas down from 4 to 3.
Ramp to 1C? I don't know where you start measuring that but if its from end of yellow to 1C its 6 and 5 minutes (shorter on one because I stayed on the gas to 155C)
I didn't adjust the air flow or damper. I'm using a light dimmer and the fan speed is appx 40% of max by sound.
My ROR starts to slow at 11 min (183C) on roast 1 and 10 (185C) on roast 2.
My setup is an older one modified with a T that doesn't fit the drop tube super well and a longer L shaped pipe. I've got the older styled tube as well but it fits really tight at the front and I have a hard time positioning my fan and ducting (shop vac tube to a window).
I have been dropping at 185C to 195C then cutting the gas until TP @ appx 1.30. The temp really falls (195 to 80.6 R1) and (183 to 83.2 R2). I got on the gas sooner with roast 1 because it fell so far. I'm hitting 150~155 in 7 min from start.
I looked up the phiget interface and was to pull the trigger but don't know where to get a box for it or if it needs power.
I'm also curious as to if it can connect to an Ipad with the USB dongle.
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Hi
I have a j set up with perforated drum, and variac.
I have been following this guide for my roasts: https://www.hukyforum.com/index.php/index.php?action=ezportal;sa=page;p=25 (https://www.hukyforum.com/index.php/index.php?action=ezportal;sa=page;p=25)
I am roasting an ethiopian idido which is suppose to have strong blueberry notes. Have been having a lot of trouble getting these notes despite adequate rest (3-5days)
Can anyone comment as to what needs to be changed?
-charge was 350g
- I tried to speed up the MAI phase per previous suggestions
I think the TP is too low before I crank up the heat.
Anyway I turn it to 3.5kpa when BT hits 180f, fan at 30 (low) until 300F (where I mark DE).
Once I reach DE I progressively lower the temp by 0.5kpa or so, and raise fan to 40 (med) until first crack.
here is the graph:
https://imgur.com/a/PZPVy (https://imgur.com/a/PZPVy)
suggestions? thanks!
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Here's my take.
I think that your first stage is too long as you're not running enough heat or too large charge for the heat. . Hit it at 5 or 6 kpa at 1 minute or sooner to shorten.
Then start dropping heat more quickly to extend the drying phase as it's really short: this is a super important phase of flavor development so don't rush on a hard natural bean.
Finally your 1c is pretty short at 16%: probably not enough heat cut soon enough in phase 2. Are you getting lemoncello acidity or grassy notes? These signify underdeveloped roasts.
Good luck and keep us posted. Just a couple minor adjustments should get you there.
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For me....a longer drying phase before 300F soak the heat there if you can and then a fast push through 1st crack and after a normal ramp time up to 400f. I would stop it at about 435f-440f finish temp with an 8-9 min total roast time. Cooling time not included but a fast cool down of course.
Best chance for delicate fruit notes.
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an 8-9 min total roast time.
Best chance for delicate fruit notes.
That too.
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I don't have a Huky so can't tell you how to run it really.
THe drying time I tend to drag out a bit if I can. Bring it up to first about a degree every second and a half to two seconds, once crack starts, adjust heat to keep it from flying thru too fast, stop at end of first crack. Rest 3 to 5 for the blueberry and go from there.
Now 200 other people are going to tell you 200 different ways to do this, my notes are just general notes to get you in the area you need to be to hopefully tweak for your machine / situation to get the best out of it.
9 minutes seems a bit quick at first, but then again, 9 on my I roast would pretty much destroy the beans, way too long. Some people run it to 17 / 18 minutes. A behmor you may find yourself approaching 20 minutes to get it finally cracking, then another 14 in it's cool cycle.
Too fast is not a good thing..... too dark is not a good thing.
Aaron
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Here's my take.
I think that your first stage is too long as you're not running enough heat or too large charge for the heat. . Hit it at 5 or 6 kpa at 1 minute or sooner to shorten.
Then start dropping heat more quickly to extend the drying phase as it's really short: this is a super important phase of flavor development so don't rush on a hard natural bean.
Finally your 1c is pretty short at 16%: probably not enough heat cut soon enough in phase 2. Are you getting lemoncello acidity or grassy notes? These signify underdeveloped roasts.
Good luck and keep us posted. Just a couple minor adjustments should get you there.
My initial roast looked like this: https://imgur.com/a/yuEJr
and I was told my MAI was way too long for a natural process coffee.
The first image I sent you was an 'improvement' already. the cup is rather bland with some acidity, but no fruit notes even after 3-5d rest.
When entering first crack or just before, what's your typical heat settings at (using the stock IR mr li burner)? One tip I was told was to keep the heat 'higher', such as 1.5k-2kpa and just blast the fan to control FC. Tried that once but didnt' seem to go well (underdeveloped)
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I probably won't use the terms you're using because, well, I don't care to. BUT here we go:
In the first roast I think that you're too slow getting to DE 5 min is a bit long: not enough heat. Looks like you got on it at the right time. I use the IR burner and roll it to 6 lb on a 300 gram roast. If you're 350 maybe 6.5.
Your ratio from DE to 1C is a bit long % wise (45% vs 40% but the time is really the killer at appx 5:20. Seems like too much heat built too late and you flew through 1C at 1.22 and a total development of less than 2 minutes.
While I build heat quickly I cut it fast too. Often down from 6lb to 4lb/3lb at yellowing, down to 3lb/2lb midway through the middle phase, then down to 1 at 180-190 depending on the time. (I use C as that's what my roaster buddies use). 1C often happens around 200 so I cut to 0.25 at 195, keeping it there through the roast.
Fan wise I run at 30% until 1C then 50% about 15-30 sec into it.
12 minutes will result in a flatter taste profile for sure and a short 1C to end will result in under-development (grassy) notes. A double hit of the worst.
Sorry you're having trouble. How long have you had your Huky?
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Hi
thanks a lot. I'm about 30 roasts into my huky j set up.
I tried to follow your advice, but instead of 6kpa, i went with 4kpa after dry end (300F or so) and decreased it from there.
I think i'm still going into first crack too quickly as FC is less than 1.5 mins. I read that for ethiopian naturals, a short first crack time is desirable in getting berry flavours, but now I'm not so sure.
here's the graph
https://imgur.com/uvSZlEi
thanks
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Let us know how it goes.
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Well waited a while before brewing.
Still very minimal berry flavour, but the cup does seem more complex? An improvement over the previous roasts but nothing to write home about unfortunately.
Will try to control first crack better by adding more fan.
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Well waited a while before brewing.
Still very minimal berry flavour, but the cup does seem more complex? An improvement over the previous roasts but nothing to write home about unfortunately.
Will try to control first crack better by adding more fan.
How goes your Huky roasting?
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Well. I took the plunge and bought a Huky. I have it pretty well setup but need to make the connection to Artisan to monitor temps before roasting. I am using phidget connected to a raspberry pi which then connects wirelessly to my chromebook. Using the newer phidget vint hub. Does anyone know if I have to use a powered USB hub with this setup? Or can I just plug the phidget into.the raspberry?
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I would check out the Artisan website for connection instructions.
Good luck with your Huky and monitoring.
There will likely be times of frustration on the path as there is a long learning curve. Try to enjoy the journey.
To that end I've found that my Huky is very responsive to inputs with 330 gram charges, pretty responsive at 454, and less so at 500. 500 is way easier to control with 330 pretty much the bare minimum to be successfully repetitive.
I typically charge between 175 and 210 C, no heat/fan for 1 minute, max heat at 1 and 1 level of fan. At 1:30 bump fan, at 2 bump fan. Now, depending on the bean, I'll either hold heat to yellow or start cutting at 130C depending on if I'm looking for a steep ROR slope or a flatter one. This is bean and roaster dependent, both can be right.
With African naturals that were grown at a high elevation and are small/dense, with plenty of acidity, I try to use a lower max ROR and flatter slope so I ultimately stay on the heat during 1C as my goal is usually to achieve some sweetness while retaining flavor (balance). I don't worry too much about the Rao ratio. I've not found it to be as important as the temp change between start of 1C and drop temp, and the absolute time between 1C start and drop.
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Hey brianmch,
Could you please share a few more details?
"the temp change between start of 1C and drop temp, and the absolute time between 1C start and drop."
I usually aim for 10% for the time and try to keep the ROR declining for the bean temp without a flick.
Thanks for your input,
woolz1
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"the temp change between start of 1C and drop temp, and the absolute time between 1C start and drop."
I usually aim for 10% for the time and try to keep the ROR declining for the bean temp without a flick.
Thanks for your input,
woolz1
One characteristic of roast development is how much the temp rises from when 1C starts and when the roast is dropped. Rao discusses this total development ratio (TDDR) but measures time against total roast time. I guess it sort-of addresses temperature change but I think temp change can't be summarily dismissed.
The editor isn't allowing me to insert the picture, but recent roast had a 4C temp change from 1C start and drop with about 1:20 minutes of absolute time, appx 15% of the total roast, a 2% temp change. With the Colo El Condor I was routinely pleased with a 5% temp change over a 1:20 timeframe and a 10 minute roast.
I won't judge how your 10% TDR roast turned out as it could be stellar depending on the start and drop temps, the total roast time, the coffee, its sweet spot, and the goal (espresso, pour over, drip, or mixed-use).
With a longer roast your TDR will likely be shorter as roasts on a Huky taken much over 1:30 start to burn off a little too much of the terrior I'm usually wanting. You also run a greater risk of getting a mid-crack flick which is a real problem. I've been making a temp cut about 30-45 sec before 1C starts to avoid the exothermic flick that precludes 1C. I make another cut about 30 sec after 1C starts to continue the declining ROR.
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The whole reason I was asking is I am always searching for the sweet spot and also lower heat ~30 sec before 1ST trying to slow momentum.
I usually get ~10-15 f temp rise and wondered if more or less was the direction to experiment.
I prefer light roasts hence the 10% development. I too am always trying to save the terrior and that's what I love about single origin coffee.
Thanks for the info!