Hottop Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks

[juker]

I like the dynamics of BT better when I drop @250*

[YasBean]

I will give it a try!

[juker]

I dug up a graph for that profile. Darker line is BT probe. Hope that helps.

[smico]

Juker,
Your temperature controll looks very effective. 
Would it be possible for you to add Power and Fan levels over time?
Thank you,
Miroslav

[juker]

Miro

You are thinking in “B” model terms. “P” is a completely different animal.

The profile I posted is for “P” model. It lists temp. set, duration and fan speed for eight program segments.

You cannot change power in ”P”. It is only on/off by temp. Fan speed can be set in advance for each segment and cannot be changed during operation. What can be changed during roasting process is temp. set (within limits of each segment). Sounds primitive? In reality - not so.

I can see why people getting frustrated not getting out of “P” model what they want. Without BT probe and a few carefully recorded graphs I’d say it’s impossible. But once you get correlation between set temp., display temp. (controller sensor), bean mass temp. and inertia of the process you can do very efficient  and precise profiling.

I removed my BT probe long ago – no need for it (as long as batch size is the same).

[smico]

Well, all I can say that you have nailed my favourite profile.
Curve is ideal, like from designer.
I yet have to master to drive my manual HT B like you do automatic HT P.
Regards,
Miroslav

[smico]

I bought metal filter that fits perfectly on HT:
http://www.suntekstore.com/goods-10008829-aluminum_filter_dust_guard_12cm_120mm_for_pc_case_fan.html

First I used only the metal filter, but resistance is very low, and roasting was even dependent on outside weather as my HT is connected to vented hood. 

Then I decided to put back original black cloth, and resulting filter gives very predictable results.  Soaking in cafitza returns filter 100% efficiency.  I will see how long the cloth will last.

Yesterday I roasted 7 samples, all 120 grams using the same saved profile, and they all had almost identical temperature curves. After 4th roast I washed the filter, and continued using the same profile.

Here is how I fastened the metal filter:

[smico]

After a week or two of roasting with the variation of Randy's filter from the previous po,t where only paper filter is replaced with metal filter, I can say that I have removed one unpredictable variable from my roasting.
Roast after roast, some 15 batches, very consistent and predictable results.
Air flow at different levels is pretty linear, so I can actively use all fan settings.
I will need to find replacement for the cloth at some point.
Until I find replacement, I will be buying filters and replace paper with metal filter. If someone will need paper parts of the filters I will be giving them for free.

[shakin_jake]

I'm thinking the heating element in my Hot Top B may be on the fritz.  here's whats happening...

Sometime ago when starting the roaster during pre heat the circuit I have it plugged into in my attached garage will trip the GFI.  I'd reset the GFI, turn the roaster back on and all was well

Then it started happening more frequently and would trip the GFI several times during the pre heat cycle but never during the actual roast

Lately it's been happening a lot and tonight (an hour ago) it tripped about a dozen X's during pre heat.  well, once under way with 12 minutes left on the roast, the GFI tripped=:-(

Not wanting to write off the roast I dumped the beans out through the front cover after removing it, into the cooling tray and took them into the kitchen where I got out my largest frying pan and turned on an electric stove burner on high and manually finished the roast.  Nice exp. actually.  First time I ever stirred coffee greens on a stove top through 1st and 2nd crack=:-)  FWIW I placed the now done roast back into Hot Top's cooling tray and ran it through some make shift cooling cycles by running the cool down and going straight to hitting the dump button, that only runs for 30 seconds...but I stayed with it till it cooled completely

So I'd liked to hear from those that have had to replace their Hot Top heating element if your symptoms mirrored mine, or maybe I have to sort out a bad GFI

I have 427 logged roasts on this machine...I bought it new (3 years ago) and log each and every roast


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.   
Our FREEDOM rests on 4 boxes:

Soap, Ballot, Jury, and Cartridge

[ScareYourPassenger]

I would see how how many amps it is pulling before jumping to the conclusion that it is the hottop.

[shakin_jake]

Jumping to the conclusion?  Bad form sir!  A more gentlemanly approach would be to ask if I tried using the Hot Top with other house hold circuits.  How many roasts were you able to complete using your Hot Top before replacing the heating element?


Besgt,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Our FREEDOM rests on 4 boxes:

Soap, Ballot, Jury, and Cartridge

[jimec3]

I'm thinking the heating element in my Hot Top B may be on the fritz.  here's whats happening...

Sometime ago when starting the roaster during pre heat the circuit I have it plugged into in my attached garage will trip the GFI.  I'd reset the GFI, turn the roaster back on and all was well
Then it started happening more frequently and would trip the GFI several times during the pre heat cycle but never during the actual roast
Lately it's been happening a lot and tonight (an hour ago) it tripped about a dozen X's during pre heat.  well, once under way with 12 minutes left on the roast, the GFI tripped=:-(
So I'd liked to hear from those that have had to replace their Hot Top heating element if your symptoms mirrored mine, or maybe I have to sort out a bad GFI
I have 427 logged roasts on this machine...I bought it new (3 years ago) and log each and every roast

Best,

Jake

I have roasted well over 1000 roasts on my hottop without having a propblem with the heating elements.  I think amp tests would be more conclusive than a tripping GFCI.  Opening the back up would even allow you to Ohm test the element independant of other variables.

[milowebailey]

Is the circuit breaker in your electrical panel popping or is the GFI switch on the outlet?  GFI switch isn't necessarily an over current situation.  It has to do with current flowing on ground (ground fault interrupter). 

My hottop doesn't have a grounded plug (3 prong plug) and so it should never cause a GFI fault.  Does your hottop have a 2 or 3 prong plug?

What I'm suggesting is it may be a bad GFI outlet or even mis-wiring of that outlet.  You can test the operation of your GFI circuit and if it's wired correctly with one of these, which you can pick up for $15 at any home improvement store. 

[expy98]

Smico,  I've given up on the metal filters.  I've tried doubling them up and airflow is still like no filters.
I never bothered to try slowing it down w/ tin foil w/ holes. 

I'd be more than happy to swap you metal filters for your paper filters but I think you are better off keeping them
because I anticipate you will go back to the paper filters eventually. 

I've used just the paper filter alone and it's worked well enough in a pinch.  But if you need closure,
I'd be more than happy to accept the paper filters from you.  Less washing...

[expy98]

My GFI was tripping every time I plugged in the Caravel.  Yet never tripped w/ a double boiler pumper connected to it.
Caravel when plugged into 110v pulled something like 140w and I forget how many amps, very low, according to my
Kill-a-Watt.

However, no problems when plugged into a regular outlet.  Doug/OE suggested that it's possible that my heating element
may have some moisture in it from sitting unused too long and I should "dry it out" by plugging it in a regular outlet
for a while.  After a few times in the regular outlet, plugged it back into the GFI and it's never tripped again since.

Not suggesting your heating element has moisture, but perhaps try the same trick and see if it helps?