Hottop Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks

[Tex]

That filter is the last piece of the machine, so it's not protecting anything inside it. Placed where it is, it can only have two functions; 1) keep the work area free of chaff/soot, 2) restrict airflow.

A mod like Randy's does a good enough job for both functions and is permanent. For me, it seems like a no brainer mod!

Well, on my Hottop, the filter is the next-to-last piece in the machine, right before the fan, so I figure there may one more purpose for it.

 What would that be, keeping the fan blades clean?

[YasBean]

That filter is the last piece of the machine, so it's not protecting anything inside it. Placed where it is, it can only have two functions; 1) keep the work area free of chaff/soot, 2) restrict airflow.

A mod like Randy's does a good enough job for both functions and is permanent. For me, it seems like a no brainer mod!

Well, on my Hottop, the filter is the next-to-last piece in the machine, right before the fan, so I figure there may one more purpose for it.

 What would that be, keeping the fan blades clean?

Blades and axle.  If some of the oils got between the fan and the motor, it could gum things up and stop the fan, I should think.

[Tex]

That filter is the last piece of the machine, so it's not protecting anything inside it. Placed where it is, it can only have two functions; 1) keep the work area free of chaff/soot, 2) restrict airflow.

A mod like Randy's does a good enough job for both functions and is permanent. For me, it seems like a no brainer mod!

Well, on my Hottop, the filter is the next-to-last piece in the machine, right before the fan, so I figure there may one more purpose for it.

 What would that be, keeping the fan blades clean?

Blades and axle.  If some of the oils got between the fan and the motor, it could gum things up and stop the fan, I should think.

Maybe Randy or someone from Hottop USA could chime in, but when I looked at the fans they looked pretty well sealed? Since Randy's been using the filter mod for some time I'll bet he has some insight into the mods impact on the fan's longevity.

[jimec3]

the fans are cheaper than the filters

[YasBean]

the fans are cheaper than the filters

Main fan from HottopUSA is $30, filter $10.  Or do you mean buying OEM?

[RobertL]

After replacing my top filter and cleaning the machine I was still have problems. To make a long story short I found out that the difference in 119v verses 122v is huge. The only time of day I'm getting my usual 121-122v is in the morning or late at night. I guess won't be roasting in the evening anymore this summer.

[ScareYourPassenger]

Variac?

[YasBean]

Variac?

Variacs are not cheap, but more importantly, they are big and do not match the decor.  I fear I would not be allowed such a device on the already crammed counter.

[Tex]

Variac?

Variacs are not cheap, but more importantly, they are big and do not match the decor.  I fear I would not be allowed such a device on the already crammed counter.

Build a nice looking box for the HT to set on and put the variac in it?

[jimec3]

the fans are cheaper than the filters

Main fan from HottopUSA is $30, filter $10.  Or do you mean buying OEM?

I am positive the fan without filters would last longer than three stock filters.  I used green scrubby pads

[Tex]

the fans are cheaper than the filters

Main fan from HottopUSA is $30, filter $10.  Or do you mean buying OEM?

I am positive the fan without filters would last longer than three stock filters. I used green scrubby pads

Sounds like a good solution (the best ideas are always cheap ).

[GC7]

After replacing my top filter and cleaning the machine I was still have problems. To make a long story short I found out that the difference in 119v verses 122v is huge. The only time of day I'm getting my usual 121-122v is in the morning or late at night. I guess won't be roasting in the evening anymore this summer.

+1 - This is now a given for me. Ideal for me is a wall voltage of 122-123 which drops to 117-118 under full power.

119V is very usable however- Drop your load to 170 gm - preheat bean temperature probe to about 350* or so before dropping the greens and profile from there. You can easily get 9.5' to first crack and 12-12 1/2 minute total roast times with wall voltages of 119. When it drops to 113-114 V during brownouts you can't get good roasts.

[RobertL]

After replacing my top filter and cleaning the machine I was still have problems. To make a long story short I found out that the difference in 119v verses 122v is huge. The only time of day I'm getting my usual 121-122v is in the morning or late at night. I guess won't be roasting in the evening anymore this summer.

+1 - This is now a given for me. Ideal for me is a wall voltage of 122-123 which drops to 117-118 under full power.

119V is very usable however- Drop your load to 170 gm - preheat bean temperature probe to about 350* or so before dropping the greens and profile from there. You can easily get 9.5' to first crack and 12-12 1/2 minute total roast times with wall voltages of 119. When it drops to 113-114 V during brownouts you can't get good roasts.

I remembered you suggesting 170g batches to someone here or on HB and I tried on the other day. It went well until the end I didn't slow it down enough and blew through 1C right into 2C. If I have no choice and have to roast in the afternoon or early evening I will do 170-180g batches. I've been roasting the morning and have no problem getting 225g batches to 1C in 9-10 minutes.

Variac?

No I don't think I need a variac I can work around the problem. Roasting in the morning is actually more enjoyable since its not as hot in the garage.

[az erik]

Yeah, it is silly that we all have to go back to 165, I'm now in the habit of blowing out the chamber to speed up the drop then wandering over to my green bean closet and weighing out a batch and writing down what I have put together, by then the Hottop is usually at temp again.

Ohhhhhhhh, that commercial roaster bug, I feel your pain. I'm sure my wife would be ok with a "real" roaster purchase but I'm still pretty happy with the Hottop overall.

I pop the green chut off and pull the chaff tray out 1/2 way. Convection takes care of the rest. Hot ait rises drawing in cold air from the chaf tray. I can usually drop the roaster back to sub 165 in 5 to 7 minutes. I pull the green chut when I eject.
Anyone know if this might be a bad idea for any 'suddenly' cool parts like the TC probes etc?

BTW I have to Variac my HT as well. My voltag usually sits at 119, under 'power' of a BH it'd hit 113. The HT will do 'btter at 115volts but not well enough to give me a agressive profile. With the Variac I set it to 120 volts under preheat, if it drops later I bump it up but it's not usually more than .5 volt drop from the variac. When I 'ramp down' the voltag jumps up to 125 or so. most of the time I leave it alone.

I would seriously suggest getting one, only plug it in when roasting, then remove for the 'decor'.

[az erik]

"cooling mode"

From 402 to 160 in 6 minutes in 55 degrees. I'd love to not have to wait that 6 minutes