I find myself having to preheat to about the 175-180 mark (instead of the preset beep point of 167)to compensate for the initial heat loss when you drop the beans. Other than that it hums right along. There may be slightly more time between cracks but nothing that really matters. Wind is more of a factor than the cool to me.. Hope that helps
Mike
I've roasted in temps below -40
staylor, When I am ready to move up to a bigger roaster (I have my eye on a USRC 3K), I'll give you a good price on this one. ([url]http://i.imdb.com/Photos/CMSIcons/emoticons/evilgrin/evil9.gif[/url])
No, what's unthinkable is... no coffee. ;-)
If it got below -20 ...snip... I've roasted in temps below -40.
Builds character(s)! look at the Cabal. ::)
Awesome. In the image above, it looks like my garage has a chimney to vent the roasting fumes when the temps drop to -80 degrees.
Recently replaced the "P" panel with a "B" panel and added environment and bean mass temperature probes.Very cool! I have the P, and sometimes wonder whether a B would not be better. I have asked Michael at HotTop to set up a forum on their site so HT users can share their profiles for different beans. The bean mass thermo seems to be very valuable, but why did you install another environmental thermo? Is the installed thermo not accurate enough, or do you want the USB from your datalogger?
Pictures and write-up at the blog link below.
Recently replaced the "P" panel with a "B" panel and added environment and bean mass temperature probes.Very cool! I have the P, and sometimes wonder whether a B would not be better. I have asked Michael at HotTop to set up a forum on their site so HT users can share their profiles for different beans. The bean mass thermo seems to be very valuable, but why did you install another environmental thermo? Is the installed thermo not accurate enough, or do you want the USB from your datalogger?
Pictures and write-up at the blog link below.
So the Hot Top is smokier than the Behmor.
Do any of you find that to be a problem?
What are you doing to control the smoke, if anything? Where do you use your Hot Top?
I have a question for you Hot Top Users...I have been roasting in a Behmor since last July full time (every bean I drink) and have 90 + roasts logged on it. I'm wanting to try another roaster and the Hot Top looks like the one. Here's my question/questions:
I roast inside my garage...it's 1000 square feet, I raise one of two overhead doors and a walkway door on an opposite wall to create cross ventilation (to deal with smoke)
The Behmor uses an afterburner to cut down on smoke. The research I have been doing (reading about the Hot Top), indicates there is no smoke eater function on the Hot Top, is that right?
So the Hot Top is smokier than the Behmor. Do any of you find that to be a problem? What are you doing to control the smoke, if anything? Where do you use your Hot Top?
Jake
Reddick Fla.
So the Hot Top is smokier than the Behmor.
Cant' answer that as I don't have a Behmor-- I did, however, previously roast on a whirlypop for a while before I went the Hottop route. There is noticeably less smoke on the Hottop than the whirlypop, if that helps at all.QuoteDo any of you find that to be a problem?
NopeQuoteWhat are you doing to control the smoke, if anything? Where do you use your Hot Top?
I use mine on the stove top under the venthood. When we remodeled our kitchen I put in the biggest, meanest venthood my wife would let me cram in. 1400 cfm will clear the kitchen pretty quick ;D. I've roasted 2 lbs in the last 24 hours (2 batches last night, 2 this morning) and can honestly say you can't tell in the house. HTH.
-MMW
Well I think I may be the newest Hottopper in the clu. I pincked 1 up this am, for the Milowidget project.... I will have a few questions, so thanks in advance!!!Larry,since you now have this new roaster...,if one of the twins needs a good home...Your friend,John
the second of the twin never made it.... Tex kept it. Otherwise, you'd be 1st in line.Well I think I may be the newest Hottopper in the clu. I pincked 1 up this am, for the Milowidget project.... I will have a few questions, so thanks in advance!!!Larry,since you now have this new roaster...,if one of the twins needs a good home...Your friend,John
Okay :(the second of the twin never made it.... Tex kept it. Otherwise, you'd be 1st in line.Well I think I may be the newest Hottopper in the clu. I pincked 1 up this am, for the Milowidget project.... I will have a few questions, so thanks in advance!!!Larry,since you now have this new roaster...,if one of the twins needs a good home...Your friend,John
Does anyone know what the "filter material" is for the top filter on the Hottop?
I ordered a rear filter when I got my used hottop but didn't notice then that the top filter is shot...
I know Hottop sells the complete filter, but is seems you should just be able to replace the filter material.
Does anyone know what the "filter material" is for the top filter on the Hottop?
I ordered a rear filter when I got my used hottop but didn't notice then that the top filter is shot...
I know Hottop sells the complete filter, but is seems you should just be able to replace the filter material.
I asked this same question sometime back but got no answer Larry. I tried using the filter material used for range hoods but the heat in the Hottop is much too intense for that. If you find the right replacement material, and need to buy more of it than you need, I 'll be happy to split the cost and the material with you.
Just the engineer in me....
Is it worth the trip? The replacement is $10 (including the metal), and I just keep two and soak the assembly in a cafiza wash every hundred roasts or so. Dante--may be worth it for you given shipping costs, but for US, I don't see why it's needed. My $0.02.
Just the engineer in me....
Is it worth the trip? The replacement is $10 (including the metal), and I just keep two and soak the assembly in a cafiza wash every hundred roasts or so. Dante--may be worth it for you given shipping costs, but for US, I don't see why it's needed. My $0.02.
Recently replaced the "P" panel with a "B" panel and added environment and bean mass temperature probes.
Pictures and write-up at the blog link below.
Recently replaced the "P" panel with a "B" panel and added environment and bean mass temperature probes.
Pictures and write-up at the blog link below.
I'm a new user with the "B" panel. Question: Why would an experienced roaster like yourself want to switch from the more sophisticated "P" panel in favor of a "B" panel?
With my "B", I have been struggling to do profile modifications from "Auto" mode but finding everything goes so fast! It has seemed to me that maybe I should have bought the "P" model so that I could program a profile ahead of time.
I went to your blog but couldn't find any text there that answered my questions above.
Ehh, I'm not so sure. I, too, thought a "B" would be good, but got the "P" anyhow. (I liked the look of the control panel.) There have been times where I would really like to change things on the fly, but have found that the forced forethought has really paid off. As I buy in 10-15# lots, I do get quite a few roasts from one bean, and it takes only a few to nail down the right profile. I have settled on three or four main categories of profiles (wet processed, dry, high altitude, dark roast). I actually enjoy setting a profile and then forcing myself to just "go along for the ride." I occassional meddle with the temp setting or final timing, but usually regret it.
It sounds like Hottop needs to combine the best features of the "B" and "P" on its next version of the control panel, namely,
1) the ahead-of-time profiling feature of the "P",
2) variable temperature control for the heater, as in the "B", rather than all (100%) or none (0%), as in the "P",
3) on-the-fly manual adjustments as in the "B".
It would be especially nice if that could be done as an optional panel upgrade for users of the present "B" and "P" roasters -- rather than requiring purchase of a new machine.
Does anyone know how much influence the distance from element to drum makes? Ive had my Hottop for just over 1 year and noticed the element was a bit warped and it was slightly resting on the inside of the metal housing so I decided it might be time to replace it even though it seemed to be heating the beans ok. As I was installing the new one, I found that I had to bend the feet slightly in order to get it positioned correctly and not contact the drum as it rotates. It's position is definitely closer to the drum than before but I didn't think too much of it. My first roast with the new element was quite a bit faster than before and following my previous profile, 1C and 2C ran together. I'm not sure if it's due to the element being new or the position of it that is the factor. Looks like I'm going to have to adjust my roast profile or batch size with the new element. What do you think? Thanks
- Matt
I have the B version, and just use the auto function and eject as I hear 2nd crack. Total amateur.
~~~Ignorance is bliss isn't it?=:-)
As an aside, its a damn nuisance that centigrade isn't the common standard!
Over the past month my Hottop has trouble releasing the beans, it appears that something is causing the door to stick and not open properly. Is this a common problem and is there an easy fix?Clean it....you may have to take part of it apart to get in there, but if the hinge for the flap gets full of goo then it will stick and not open well. If that's not it, then the solenoid is going out.
[snip]...As far as that goes, I have had no problems with this roaster and just did roast # 94 with it yesterday.
I stopped counting how many roasts I've done on the HT somewhere around the 400th. If I was to guess I'd think maybe 600 roasts???
I stopped counting how many roasts I've done on the HT somewhere around the 400th. If I was to guess I'd think maybe 600 roasts???
~~~600 roasts, that's impressive! What have you needed to replace during this time to keep it running besides the requisite filter replacement?
Anyone log more than 600 roasts? If so, what's your part failure total, and when (after how many roasts if you logged it)? I'm going to assume there are some items that will eventually fail like the heating element, motor, etc. I'm just curious what others have had to do to keep their Hot Top running
Jake
Reddick Fla.
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who
have not got it.
- - George Bernard Shaw
I have a question regarding using a hottop to profile (or get close) to what my Ambex will do.
I've been thinking about the roast profile time.
The hottop takes 20 - 24 minutes for a roast.
Typically I roast on the Ambex 12 - 15 minutes.
Is there a relationship between the two that I should consider?
I have a question regarding using a hottop to profile (or get close) to what my Ambex will do.
I've been thinking about the roast profile time.
The hottop takes 20 - 24 minutes for a roast.
Typically I roast on the Ambex 12 - 15 minutes.
Is there a relationship between the two that I should consider?
Yup, new heating element.
I emailed Hottop USA today and after a volley of emails they suggest replacing the heating element and temperature sensor. I guess I'll order those tomorrow.
Anyone ever changed the heating element? Any tips?
I emailed Hottop USA today and after a volley of emails they suggest replacing the heating element and temperature sensor. I guess I'll order those tomorrow.
Anyone ever changed the heating element? Any tips?
It's easy, I've done it once before. I think there is a link floating around on Hottop's website somewhere.
[/quot
Once you take the back panel off its just to screws holding it in place
I've had a programmable hottop for almost 2 years now which I bought directly from them. I have had to replace several items. I am only roasting for myself so it is not getting anything but light use. Now my LCD screen is going bad and half the information is unreadable. I note Larry's issues with the heating element on his older machine. Those of you with hottops, have you been happy with the reliability? I am becoming increasingly disappointed with it's electronics. I am wondering if this is par for this machine or have I got a lemon?
I've had a programmable hottop for almost 2 years now which I bought directly from them. I have had to replace several items. I am only roasting for myself so it is not getting anything but light use. Now my LCD screen is going bad and half the information is unreadable. I note Larry's issues with the heating element on his older machine. Those of you with hottops, have you been happy with the reliability? I am becoming increasingly disappointed with it's electronics. I am wondering if this is par for this machine or have I got a lemon?I agree that you must have a lemon. My experience with repairing a HotTop resulted from when I melted my own P model base (http://www.greencoffeebuyingclub.com/index.php?topic=5670.0), resulting in my having to replace the body and panel. It was easy and fun. Everything you need to know is on the HotTop website. I would suggest, though, that you take a photograph of the wire connections on the p.c. board before disconnecting the panel. There were a few wires that were not obvious to me, and the numbered labels fell off, so I had to reconnect through analysis and trial and error. No harm done, in the end. Hundreds of roasts before the repair, and a hundred or so since.
([url]http://crystalcraven.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/lemon.jpg[/url])
I thought I had my HT-P all set up, with good profiles for different beans and roasts, but after I bought a batch of Kona from Lion's Gate, I was very disappointed. After several roasts on my "Kona" profile (slow ramp with a long dehydration around 350F), which BTW works just fine with Purple Mountain and Thunder Mountain, I thought the Lion's Gate was flat and uninteresting. A week ago, I thought, what the heck, I might as well try it with my slightly modified Standard profile and run it into espresso roast. This stuff is REALLY GOOD!!!
So, my dilemma is, I think I no longer know ANYTHING about profiling or roasting! For one thing, programming the HT-P is quite abstract, as the temps one sets are just a general method of turning the heating element on and off, but say nothing about where the roast will be at any point in time. Then, if by chance, I find a profile that seems to bring out the special notes of a bean, which is looking more and more hit-and-miss, I no longer have any idea of how to tweak the profile to make it better.
What methods are others with HT-Ps using to create and modify profiles? Should I bother trying to "theorize" about where to stretch the ramp and where to push it, other than after 1st crack, of course? Or am I just thinking too much, and should just use the stinkin' modified Standard for Lion's Gate, and whatever I have programmed for whatever else I want to roast, because no matter what, it will be a heck of a lot better than if I were using an air popper?
There are 2 bikes & I can only ride 1 of them at a time!
I've been needing a 2 to 5 # roaster for some time.
A really bad windstorm destroyed my last BBQ drum setup...picked it up and tossed it like a leaf . This one is going to be Heavy Duty, mobile & able to take a punch ;-)
The Hottop is nice enough, but I'm sure I'd kill it if I kept using it to roast 5#'s a day X 3 day weekend...I have 4 spare Poppery 1's as backup machines, but the controls were made by a guy that dropped off my radar screen 2 years ago...Fantastic controller. I have the plans, just need need an electronics guy to build me a few of them... :-\
At the moment, I still need a BBQ roaster more than a 'B' panel for the Hottop.
3 batches (~1.5 lbs) a week at my current burn rate is about as much time as I really want to spend in front of the Hottop.Well, if the profiles are good, you would really only need to spend a few minutes per batch in front of your Hottop.
3 batches (~1.5 lbs) a week at my current burn rate is about as much time as I really want to spend in front of the Hottop.Well, if the profiles are good, you would really only need to spend a few minutes per batch in front of your Hottop.
There are 2 bikes & I can only ride 1 of them at a time!
I've been needing a 2 to 5 # roaster for some time.
A really bad windstorm destroyed my last BBQ drum setup...picked it up and tossed it like a leaf . This one is going to be Heavy Duty, mobile & able to take a punch ;-)
The Hottop is nice enough, but I'm sure I'd kill it if I kept using it to roast 5#'s a day X 3 day weekend...I have 4 spare Poppery 1's as backup machines, but the controls were made by a guy that dropped off my radar screen 2 years ago...Fantastic controller. I have the plans, just need need an electronics guy to build me a few of them... :-\
At the moment, I still need a BBQ roaster more than a 'B' panel for the Hottop.
sooner than you think ;D
I want to believe that I can fully control it one day.
sooner than you think ;D
I want to believe that I can fully control it one day.
+1 for keeping on message!I try to let it get below 150. Otherwise, the front half of the profile is behind and the second half ahead. I usually choose the most convenient profile and let it cool. Around 170, I turn it off and sit on my hands for 20 minutes before starting afresh. This works for me, as I rarely do two batches in one day.
@CF - you say 15 roasts per day?
How long inbetween dou you give to cool down?!
Sounds like you have the "B" model.
To lengthen the time between 1st and 2nd, you want to lower the heater power BEFORE 1st starts (I usually try to do this at least a minute before 1st starts) to around 50-60%. That should give you a slow trip through 1st crack, and help get your total time between the start of 1st to end of roast to about 4 minutes.
Sounds like you have the "B" model.
To lengthen the time between 1st and 2nd, you want to lower the heater power BEFORE 1st starts (I usually try to do this at least a minute before 1st starts) to around 50-60%. That should give you a slow trip through 1st crack, and help get your total time between the start of 1st to end of roast to about 4 minutes.
CF,
I recently bought a Hottop B and am learning roasting profiles.
Do you ramp down the HT to 50%-60% for all beans or just certain ones?
Do your roasting profiles vary much from bean to bean as far as heat adjustments?
I am at about 3 min from start of first crack to start of second crack for most beans with about a one minute rest between cracks. Total roast times are usually between 15 to just under 17 minutes from drop at 200 degrees....depending on the bean. I am very interested in fine tuning my roasts from bean to bean.
I am about to do a batch of Kenya AA to FC on my Hottop B. I have been dropping my beans @ around 250 degrees (per HT temp - I do not have any add on temp probes) and dropping the temp to 50% a minute or so before FC. My question is should I bring the temp back up at or during FC or leave it at 50% for the duration of the roast? And, what about the fan during this stage....should it be on/off or somewhere inbetween?Speaking for myself I would leave the fan on around 25 percent once you begin to get smoke. I cut the fan on 25% and leave it there starting at 350. I cut back my power befoe first and usually just leave it that way until finishing....A lot is dependent on the ambient temperature as well.
I did a batch of Yirg and PNG to City+ on my HT and both batches came out with a fair amount of chaff stuck in the crack of the beans. Even a fair amount of agitation doesnt loosen the chaff. Is this normal? That seems like a lot of chaff that gets ground into your coffee.
I'm a new Hottop B owner with 5 roasts under my belt. I understand the benefits of stretching the time between 1st crack and the end of the roast to four to five minutes. I have been able to do this, but not without roasting to full city or darker.
Is it possible (or desirable) to roast to city or city+ and still accomplish this? I am trying to roast different origins to recommended levels as a starting point to see how I like them, then adjusting roast levels to taste. I do not roast for espresso.
How important is it on lighter roasts to stretch the finishing ramp?
Any feedback on how to do this would be appreciated. I know lighter roasts are harder to do, but I really need to learn how. I do not have any additional probes, yet, so I'm steering by sight, smell and the stock temperature readings.
Glenn K.
Nothing to do with profiles or roasting per se: The display on my B model is a PITA to read with polarized shades unless you're right in front of it. I guess I need to get a taller roasting table? My rolly-table worked fine with the Sono, since most of the work was done on top of the taller roaster.Get a chair?
Nothing to do with profiles or roasting per se: The display on my B model is a PITA to read with polarized shades unless you're right in front of it. I guess I need to get a taller roasting table? My rolly-table worked fine with the Sono, since most of the work was done on top of the taller roaster.Get a chair?
Looks like you'll be using an electrical extension cord with your new Hot Top Tex, is that right? I see one in your pic
Jake
Reddick Fla.
If he's got golf clubs in his truck or a camper in his driveway, I don't hire him.
--Lou Holtz, football coach
Nothing to do with profiles or roasting per se: The display on my B model is a PITA to read with polarized shades unless you're right in front of it. I guess I need to get a taller roasting table? My rolly-table worked fine with the Sono, since most of the work was done on top of the taller roaster.
Get a chair?
Wait long enough. You will shrink with aging. In the meantime, ship it to the Midwest for profile development.
B|Java
Roger that Tex, did you get the first roast out of the way yet?
Curious minds
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Pessimists by nature have a better time of life, as having our expectations dashed against the rocks is seldom a bad thing. On the contrary it is usually a pleasant surprise.
~~~The Hot Top is simple enough to run for first timers which you are not...IMO, you will not screw anything up, measure out 280 grams of the Bali BM I know you have and get going! March Mister!!!, times a wasting=:-)
Tex, You don't need supplemental cooling w/the Hot Top. Stop using your aux fan and you'll end your messy chaff problem
The deadman alarms will keep you from walking away from your roaster while it's doing it's thing. God forbid if you started a roast, hopped in your car for a DQ and came back to the fire department hosing down what's left of your home
Jake
Reddick Fla.
If he's got golf clubs in his truck or a camper in his driveway, I don't hire him.
--Lou Holtz, football coach
QuoteQuoteThe cooling was for me - it's hot & humid around here today!Quote
Used my TurboCrazy & UFO for a long time without the need for a deadman switch. Guess it's worth it for those with Adult ADHD; not my problem though.
~~~Deadman switches on plug and play home coffee roasters is a CYA for the manufacturer. You'd be surprised how many users have caught garages, homes on fire while roasting green beans using these appliances, pre-deadman switches. Home brewed roasters like your SC/TO carry no liabilty for anyone but yourself
~~~This time of year I'm roasting late at night for that very reason!
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Being in therapy is great. I spend an hour just talking about myself. It's kinda like being the guy on a date.
-- Caroline Rhea
I have been trying to work on my dark roasts with my HT...... Any suggestions on other coffees to dark roast?
............. Do you think 45 secs is long enough or should I extend the time. I also turn the fan up to 25% about two minutes before FC for good heat circulation and even roast....and then adjust it after FC to control roast time.
Last batch: 09/05/10; 300 grams of Brazil Sul de Minas Canaan EstatesI've found the Sol de Minas is better after 5 days... give it some time and report back ;D
Target 424°F
Dumped @170°F / 100% power / 18:00 minutes showing
Fan on 25% / @ 258°F / 14:30 - 14:00 to dry roast chamber
Fan on 50% / @ 325°F / 11:50 for duration of roast
Power dropped to 50% @ 400°F / 6:15
1st crack @ 5:38 / 403°F (12:22 from dump to 1st crack)
2nd crack @ 3:36 / 419°F (2:02 from start of 1st crack to start of 2nd crack)
Ejected @ 421° (5 seconds into 2nd crack)
Results: Full City +, w/no oil showing 3 days after roast. Great in vac pot - lots of citrus & sweetness. So-so in espresso - not enough sweetness; maybe a little darker next time or blend with RSB?
Variac question. When finished using the variac does it need to be unplugged. I have read both opinions on unplugging it and just switching it to the off position. Does it draw power in the off position or pose an electrical hazard. Any help appreciated.It's not a bad idea to unplug it IMO. It should not pull current if off, but you never know. Better safe then sorry.
Mike
Variac question. When finished using the variac does it need to be unplugged. I have read both opinions on unplugging it and just switching it to the off position. Does it draw power in the off position or pose an electrical hazard. Any help appreciated.
Mike
No, it just has a toggle switch for on and off.Variac question. When finished using the variac does it need to be unplugged. I have read both opinions on unplugging it and just switching it to the off position. Does it draw power in the off position or pose an electrical hazard. Any help appreciated.
Mike
Out of curiosity, I plugged my variac into a Kill-a-watt: No power is flowing, so off is off.
A mechanical switch can go bad, but not on its own as it sits idle. I have this argument with Mrs T all the time; a mechanical switch goes bad as it's flipped on and off, there's no way one is going to magically jump from an off-state to an on-state - it just doesn't happen that way!
edited: My variac has a light indicating when it's turned ON; does yours?
Variac question. When finished using the variac does it need to be unplugged. I have read both opinions on unplugging it and just switching it to the off position. Does it draw power in the off position or pose an electrical hazard. Any help appreciated.
Mike
Out of curiosity, I plugged my variac into a Kill-a-watt: No power is flowing, so off is off.
A mechanical switch can go bad, but not on its own as it sits idle. I have this argument with Mrs T all the time; a mechanical switch goes bad as it's flipped on and off, there's no way one is going to magically jump from an off-state to an on-state - it just doesn't happen that way!
edited: My variac has a light indicating when it's turned ON; does yours?
No, it just has a toggle switch for on and off.
... I'm going to have to sit down and read the thing at some point but apparently I have attention problems. :-X
I have a couple simple questions that are probably answered in the instructions but the layout of these instructions is not working for me.... :-X
Why do I have two different colored back filters?
When should I replace either/both filters?
What are the load parameters? Is it 250G without fail or is there some wiggle room worth knowing about?
I've tried 5 times to look at the book to scan for this info but it's organized more like a novel or something and not like a step by step instruction book. I'm going to have to sit down and read the thing at some point but apparently I have attention problems. :-X
I have a couple simple questions that are probably answered in the instructions but the layout of these instructions is not working for me.... :-X
Why do I have two different colored back filters?
When should I replace either/both filters?
What are the load parameters? Is it 250G without fail or is there some wiggle room worth knowing about?
I've tried 5 times to look at the book to scan for this info but it's organized more like a novel or something and not like a step by step instruction book. I'm going to have to sit down and read the thing at some point but apparently I have attention problems. :-X
I will respond more when I get home but why a white and a black filter?
I'm not sure when to use either.
Black for covert roasts.
8)
I will respond more when I get home but why a white and a black filter?
I'm not sure when to use either.
Now I want to shoot off an email to score a silencer filter and an emerg self destruct filter in case my hide out gets compromised.
So these two filters look different in colour but are the same filter shape and meant to be used in front of the rear fan right John? Perhaps the vendor that builds the filter for Hot Top (or they manufacture it themselves), had different coloured material when manufacturing on different days. If it's the same filter it really doesn't matter what colour it is. I've heard of peeps using the Hot Top and not running the filter. Me personally, I want to use the filter so the fan blades don't get mucked up from roast smoke detritus, plus the filter slows the roast down by regulating air flow out of the roaster (rear fan area)
now there is a seperate smaller filter used on top of the roaster...is that what you are referring to?
Jake
Reddick Fla.
I may not agree with what you say...
but if you say it with fewer words I'll try harder...I will respond more when I get home but why a white and a black filter?
I'm not sure when to use either.
Now I want to shoot off an email to score a silencer filter and an emerg self destruct filter in case my hide out gets compromised.
Awh, man, the guy is 'jacking his own thread!
B|Java
Might as well have fun while we wait for somebody that knows...
;)
Awh, man, the guy is 'jacking his own thread!
B|Java
~~~this is not John's thread. This is the Hot Top thread so to all, please keep replies related to the discussion of the Hot Top Roaster.
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Awh, man, the guy is 'jacking his own thread!
B|Java
I have a couple simple questions that are probably answered in the instructions but the layout of these instructions is not working for me.... :-X
Why do I have two different colored back filters?
When should I replace either/both filters?
What are the load parameters? Is it 250G without fail or is there some wiggle room worth knowing about?
I've tried 5 times to look at the book to scan for this info but it's organized more like a novel or something and not like a step by step instruction book. I'm going to have to sit down and read the thing at some point but apparently I have attention problems. :-X
This was literally my first pic using a bottomless PF.
~~~this is not John's thread. This is the Hot Top thread so to all, please keep replies related to the discussion of the Hot Top Roaster.
Jake
Reddick Fla.
~~~this is not John's thread. This is the Hot Top thread so to all, please keep replies related to the discussion of the Hot Top Roaster.
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Yeah! What are you guys thinking? The next thing we know people will be posting pics of espresso shots and describing how they made their bottomless PF!! HT posts only! ;)
~~~That shot was built from club greens that were roasted using a Hot Top Roaster, so it pertains=:-)
See here, going astray from the thread topic for a little bit is fine but this is a stickied thread peeps come to to read about the Hot Top Roaster, not rantings from some pablum puking liberal adult cry baby screming out wanting attention, Tex=:-)
(typically at 22' remaining, otherwise I dump beans at nearest 30 secs interval
for ease of log)
.
.
.
- usually Eject around 14:30 - 15:30 minutes of roast time
When 1st hits, you should be riding 5-6 (+1 -2) on the heat, depending on the level of the roast you like, shooting for about 4-5 minutes from start of 1st to the end of roast no matter what the roast level.
You watching the fights tonight? I'm stuck watching it sometime tomorrow.
(typically at 22' remaining, otherwise I dump beans at nearest 30 secs interval
for ease of log)
.
- usually Eject around 14:30 - 15:30 minutes of roast time
So your roasts are approx 7 min or so from dumping beans to hitting eject?
Am I reading that right?
My total roast time is around 15 minutes, +/- 1' or so.
My total roast time is around 15 minutes, +/- 1' or so.
That is about where I landed...
- Power 10, Fan 0 to start til about 3 mins into the roast or when I smell grassiness, then Fan to 1
- lower Power to 7 at 370-375F, depending on beans and past roast logs
- lower Power to 5 at 380-385, again depending on past roast logs
WHY ISN'T THIS THREAD STILL STICKIED?
WHY ISN'T THIS THREAD STILL STICKIED?
It is. What are you looking at?
B|Java
I took my HT apart for its first deep cleaning and I noticed the drum motor has a lot of dark coffee residue on the top half. Is this normal? Should I try to clean it off? I wish I had taken a picture next time I have it apart I will.
I was cleaning my Hottop, and couldn't reach some residuals at the bottom of the drum. Then I figured easy way to do it - put the drum in electrical oven and run self cleaning.
I came up with the idea myself, so don't quote me now some old threads or whatnot.
The only disadvantage is that the drum is not longer shiny at easy to reach places, but it has some kind of golden layer throughout. But clean it is.
Miroslav
How important is it to keep the drum, etc, shiny clean? I thought seasoning was a good thing.
I remove the back cover and blow that out, then vacuum as much out as I can. Cleaning the fan blades was not very easy.
I was thinking of just getting a new fan from a computer or electronics graveyard in the future.
Unfortunately, I think I stripped the threads on the back cover, so I will be reluctant to take the whole back assembly off again.
The thick layer of coffee lacquer that has built up on my chute cover was a source of pride and pleasure. You're saying that is bad?
~~~those 8 or so screws holding the rear cover are certainly a PITA to R&R w/o mucking up the heads. I'm going to guess the head of the fastnerer is what you stripped?
~~~those 8 or so screws holding the rear cover are certainly a PITA to R&R w/o mucking up the heads. I'm going to guess the head of the fastnerer is what you stripped?
Nope, it is the plastic of the back housing that has been stripped. Now, I turn and turn the screws, but they do not hit the end. Removing is the same, I turn but they do not come out. They are holding the housing on by friction.
How to stop smoke leaking through the HT bean chute?
I currently use teflon tape, wounded around the shute cover, and it helps but it's not perfect.
I am thinkig to buy hi temp (food grade, although not critical) silicon to make chute cover plug in. Or apply thin layer of silicone on the hottop around the chute.
Does anyone have some other solution implemented, or some other idea?
I usually roast 8oz batches in my HT but I would like to try 4oz batches for cupping or blending. Anyone doing smaller batches and if so any pointers or tips would be appreciated.I was getting 100 g samples, and it was tricky at first. I did 3-4 roasts with coffees that I know very well before running live.
I usually roast 8oz batches in my HT but I would like to try 4oz batches for cupping or blending. Anyone doing smaller batches and if so any pointers or tips would be appreciated.I was getting 100 g samples, and it was tricky at first. I did 3-4 roasts with coffees that I know very well before running live.
I was using Roasterthing to follow the curve of my previous roasts, but essentially you have to scale back on everything: drop in temperature, heat, fan and pulling the fillter. Doing that I was able to reproduce the same results, and stretch after the first crack. I didn't help much except to encourage you to go ahead, I guess.
I usually roast 8oz batches in my HT but I would like to try 4oz batches for cupping or blending. Anyone doing smaller batches and if so any pointers or tips would be appreciated.
I did a few of 4oz roast after I wrote my last post in this thread and they turned out fine. I would not hesitate to do more if I needed a smaller amount for a blend.In a "P" or a "B"?
“P” model here. Batch size is 225g.Aha! 225g is closer to my 250g than is 170g. It may be a "P"-thing.
Base profile:
243 1:00 0
297 3:00 0
331 3:00 0
340 1:00 1
369 2:00 1
388 3:00 1
401 2:00 2
415 3:00 2
I load @250* (front panel)
I'm thinking the heating element in my Hot Top B may be on the fritz. here's whats happening...
Sometime ago when starting the roaster during pre heat the circuit I have it plugged into in my attached garage will trip the GFI. I'd reset the GFI, turn the roaster back on and all was well
Then it started happening more frequently and would trip the GFI several times during the pre heat cycle but never during the actual roast
Lately it's been happening a lot and tonight (an hour ago) it tripped about a dozen X's during pre heat. well, once under way with 12 minutes left on the roast, the GFI tripped=:-(
So I'd liked to hear from those that have had to replace their Hot Top heating element if your symptoms mirrored mine, or maybe I have to sort out a bad GFI
I have 427 logged roasts on this machine...I bought it new (3 years ago) and log each and every roast
Best,
Jake
My GFI was tripping every time I plugged in the Caravel. Yet never tripped w/ a double boiler pumper connected to it.It could be buildup of coffee oils... but this would only will trip the GFI if you have a 3 prong plug...
Caravel when plugged into 110v pulled something like 140w and I forget how many amps, very low, according to my
Kill-a-Watt.
However, no problems when plugged into a regular outlet. Doug/OE suggested that it's possible that my heating element
may have some moisture in it from sitting unused too long and I should "dry it out" by plugging it in a regular outlet
for a while. After a few times in the regular outlet, plugged it back into the GFI and it's never tripped again since.
Not suggesting your heating element has moisture, but perhaps try the same trick and see if it helps?
Thanks for everyone's help on this, you too scare your passenger...I was just messin with ya. Right.Yep, that happens with freezers. Often it's the start capacitor for the motor or the motor itself.
So here's where we're at with it...we also have two chest freezers plugged into the same line. There's one more 20 AMP GFI circuit in the garage. When we plugged both freezers into this circuit, it too blew, so we isolated it to one of the freezers that would not blow this other circuit and it runs fine. The bigger freezer that is blowing (tripping) the GFI, we ran that one into the house on a non GFI circuit and it runs fine
Thinking it may be the GFI and wanting to eliminate it from the equation, I got a new one from home despot, swapped it out, plugged em both back in, same deal. We're thinkin' the big freezer is dying a slow death as the little freezer works on that line w/o blowing (tripping) the new GFI
Boss is taking (has taken) everything from the big freezer and is trucking it into another empty freezer up in the barn
Haven't run any diagnostics on this suspect freezer but we're thinking it's a goner, or one not willing to run on GFI, which all of these circuits are in the garage, barn
Yeah, I could omit the GFI on that circuit but I like the added measure of electrical safety. Will probably spring for a new larger freezer over the weekend. Thanks for all of the hep!
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Good judgement comes from bad experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement.
Smico, I've given up on the metal filters. I've tried doubling them up and airflow is still like no filters.I just replace paper filter with metal filter and keep the cloth. I guess, what we are saying - you use paper filter only, and I use cloth filter only.
I never bothered to try slowing it down w/ tin foil w/ holes.
I'd be more than happy to swap you metal filters for your paper filters but I think you are better off keeping them
because I anticipate you will go back to the paper filters eventually.
I've used just the paper filter alone and it's worked well enough in a pinch. But if you need closure,
I'd be more than happy to accept the paper filters from you. Less washing...
Thanks for everyone's help on this, you too scare your passenger...I was just messin with ya. Right.
I've been having problems with my HT lately for some reason all my roast are taking longer than normal. Can anyone tell me if this is a symptom of the top filter reaching the end of its life span?
Summer tends to be a time when you get lower voltages at the the wall from your power company. Get a KillAWatt and check. This can seriously affect roast times. Roast early in the morning to get the best voltages.
I've been having problems with my HT lately for some reason all my roast are taking longer than normal. Can anyone tell me if this is a symptom of the top filter reaching the end of its life span?As said it can be either a voltage issue or when the top filter gets old it shrinks up and lets some of your heat out the top.
When I saw the red element through my top filter the other day, I grabbed a Philips-head and switch filters out on the fly. It made a difference in the roast time and the end result. The felt inside the casing was quite shrunken. A little soaking in cleaner will put it back to normal, though.I've been having problems with my HT lately for some reason all my roast are taking longer than normal. Can anyone tell me if this is a symptom of the top filter reaching the end of its life span?As said it can be either a voltage issue or when the top filter gets old it shrinks up and lets some of your heat out the top.
I've had two HTs and have done ~70 roasts total; hardly an expert, right? But one thing I noticed is how the roast profile changes with reduced airflow as the exhaust filters absorbed gunk.This brings up a question I've had every time I read about these permanent filters, and every time I opt to clean my filter instead of replacing it with a new one: What exactly is the purpose of the filter? Is it to catch the smudge that clogs it so it does not clog the fan? Or is it to keep the environmental air clean to breath? If it is the latter, I think that gets negated by the smoke pretty quickly.
I used a Kill-A-Watt & checked voltage at the receptacle with a MM, and voltage is never an issue with my electric provider. But if the filter is used for more than a half-dozen roasts without cleaning, the airflow begins to drop off and the roast profile follows it.
That's why I believe Randy's filter mod is a good idea, as it keeps the air flowing at a constant rate, so profiles remain constant too. I wonder if there's a similar mod for the top filter?
I've had two HTs and have done ~70 roasts total; hardly an expert, right? But one thing I noticed is how the roast profile changes with reduced airflow as the exhaust filters absorbed gunk.This brings up a question I've had every time I read about these permanent filters, and every time I opt to clean my filter instead of replacing it with a new one: What exactly is the purpose of the filter? Is it to catch the smudge that clogs it so it does not clog the fan? Or is it to keep the environmental air clean to breath? If it is the latter, I think that gets negated by the smoke pretty quickly.
I used a Kill-A-Watt & checked voltage at the receptacle with a MM, and voltage is never an issue with my electric provider. But if the filter is used for more than a half-dozen roasts without cleaning, the airflow begins to drop off and the roast profile follows it.
That's why I believe Randy's filter mod is a good idea, as it keeps the air flowing at a constant rate, so profiles remain constant too. I wonder if there's a similar mod for the top filter?
If you are replacing the paper filter with a permanent filter that does not clog, are you letting stuff through that the filter is supposed to filter? If the filter is only to reduce airflow, well then, I can think of much better design solutions.
Any ideas?
That filter is the last piece of the machine, so it's not protecting anything inside it. Placed where it is, it can only have two functions; 1) keep the work area free of chaff/soot, 2) restrict airflow.Well, on my Hottop, the filter is the next-to-last piece in the machine, right before the fan, so I figure there may one more purpose for it.
A mod like Randy's does a good enough job for both functions and is permanent. For me, it seems like a no brainer mod!
That filter is the last piece of the machine, so it's not protecting anything inside it. Placed where it is, it can only have two functions; 1) keep the work area free of chaff/soot, 2) restrict airflow.
A mod like Randy's does a good enough job for both functions and is permanent. For me, it seems like a no brainer mod!
Well, on my Hottop, the filter is the next-to-last piece in the machine, right before the fan, so I figure there may one more purpose for it.
Blades and axle. If some of the oils got between the fan and the motor, it could gum things up and stop the fan, I should think.That filter is the last piece of the machine, so it's not protecting anything inside it. Placed where it is, it can only have two functions; 1) keep the work area free of chaff/soot, 2) restrict airflow.
A mod like Randy's does a good enough job for both functions and is permanent. For me, it seems like a no brainer mod!
Well, on my Hottop, the filter is the next-to-last piece in the machine, right before the fan, so I figure there may one more purpose for it.
What would that be, keeping the fan blades clean?
Blades and axle. If some of the oils got between the fan and the motor, it could gum things up and stop the fan, I should think.That filter is the last piece of the machine, so it's not protecting anything inside it. Placed where it is, it can only have two functions; 1) keep the work area free of chaff/soot, 2) restrict airflow.
A mod like Randy's does a good enough job for both functions and is permanent. For me, it seems like a no brainer mod!
Well, on my Hottop, the filter is the next-to-last piece in the machine, right before the fan, so I figure there may one more purpose for it.
What would that be, keeping the fan blades clean?
the fans are cheaper than the filtersMain fan from HottopUSA is $30, filter $10. Or do you mean buying OEM?
Variac?Variacs are not cheap, but more importantly, they are big and do not match the decor. I fear I would not be allowed such a device on the already crammed counter.
Variac?Variacs are not cheap, but more importantly, they are big and do not match the decor. I fear I would not be allowed such a device on the already crammed counter.
the fans are cheaper than the filtersMain fan from HottopUSA is $30, filter $10. Or do you mean buying OEM?
the fans are cheaper than the filtersMain fan from HottopUSA is $30, filter $10. Or do you mean buying OEM?
I am positive the fan without filters would last longer than three stock filters. I used green scrubby pads
After replacing my top filter and cleaning the machine I was still have problems. To make a long story short I found out that the difference in 119v verses 122v is huge. The only time of day I'm getting my usual 121-122v is in the morning or late at night. I guess won't be roasting in the evening anymore this summer.
After replacing my top filter and cleaning the machine I was still have problems. To make a long story short I found out that the difference in 119v verses 122v is huge. The only time of day I'm getting my usual 121-122v is in the morning or late at night. I guess won't be roasting in the evening anymore this summer.
+1 - This is now a given for me. Ideal for me is a wall voltage of 122-123 which drops to 117-118 under full power.
119V is very usable however- Drop your load to 170 gm - preheat bean temperature probe to about 350* or so before dropping the greens and profile from there. You can easily get 9.5' to first crack and 12-12 1/2 minute total roast times with wall voltages of 119. When it drops to 113-114 V during brownouts you can't get good roasts.
Variac?
Yeah, it is silly that we all have to go back to 165, I'm now in the habit of blowing out the chamber to speed up the drop then wandering over to my green bean closet and weighing out a batch and writing down what I have put together, by then the Hottop is usually at temp again.
Ohhhhhhhh, that commercial roaster bug, I feel your pain. I'm sure my wife would be ok with a "real" roaster purchase but I'm still pretty happy with the Hottop overall.
looks like it's going to be expensive, so I still havent figured out which way to go yet.I would vote for you to stand in line to pick up a used Hottop at a good price. I'm thinking of getting a second Hottop that way.
looks like it's going to be expensive, so I still havent figured out which way to go yet.I would vote for you to stand in line to pick up a used Hottop at a good price. I'm thinking of getting a second Hottop that way.
looks like it's going to be expensive, so I still havent figured out which way to go yet.I would vote for you to stand in line to pick up a used Hottop at a good price. I'm thinking of getting a second Hottop that way.
Or one could email Hottop USA and ask if any returns or demo units are available.
looks like it's going to be expensive, so I still havent figured out which way to go yet. how long do the elements last on your hottops?
I saw this comment by Randy G. on HB about a larger capacity hottop and I thought I would share it here for the members who don't visit HB.Question for the moderators - doesn't this deserve its own thread? Seems misplaced in Tips & Tricks.
Filters- I have three that I rotate for about 20 roasts each at whcih time I put the dirty one in a hot calfeza espresso detergent solution for about 15 minutes. Wash well with clean water and dry. They last through quite a few washings.
What worked well for others did not work well for me and what works well for me unfor may not work well for you neither. Also, I've replaced the rear filter's white element w/ 2 computer fan metal filters (per Randy G), keeping the black element, best I can tell, it flows more than the white element.
I am positive the fan without filters would last longer than three stock filters. I used green scrubby pads
I did not see any discussion about replacement for the top filter ($11). That seems far less important to the roast. I assume the top filter only limits the particulates in the smoke coming from the Hottop's hot top.
I also use scrubby pads. After 20 roasts or so, I put them in caffitza, and then they are like new.I am positive the fan without filters would last longer than three stock filters. I used green scrubby pads
DISPLAY ROR
TIME TEMP FAN HEAT Milestone per min
0:00 215 0% 100% drop 265g beans into roaster
8:35 320 25% 100%
10:30 350 50% 80%
12:50 381 50% 70% First crack
13:20 386 75% 40% 1C + :30
13:50 390 75% 30% 1C + 1:00 9
14:20 393 75% 30% 1C + 1:30 7
14:50 397 50% 30% 1C + 2:00 7
15:20 399 EJECT 1C + 2:30 8
DISPLAY ROR
TIME TEMP FAN HEAT Milestone per min
0:00 215 0% 100% drop 265g beans into roaster
8:05 320 25% 100%
9:55 350 50% 80%
11:55 383 80% 70% First crack
12:25 388 75% 30% 1C + :30
12:55 395 25% 30% 1C + 1:00 12
13:25 399 25% 30% 1C + 1:30 11
13:55 406 EJECT 1C + 2:00 11
DISPLAY ROR
TIME TEMP FAN HEAT Milestone per min
0:00 215 0% 100% drop 265g beans into roaster
9:10 320 25% 100%
11:00 350 50% 80%
13:40 388 50% 70% First crack
14:10 393 75% 40% 1C + :30
14:40 397 75% 30% 1C + 1:00 9
15:10 404 75% 30% 1C + 1:30 11
15:40 408 50% 20% 1C + 2:00 11
16:10 413 EJECT 1C + 2:30 9
DISPLAY ROR
TIME TEMP FAN HEAT Milestone per min
0:00 215 0% 100% drop 230g beans into roaster
7:50 320 25% 100%
9:30 350 50% 70%
11:30 384 70% 50% First crack
12:00 392 75% 30% 1C + :30
12:30 397 25% 30% 1C + 1:00 13
13:00 402 25% 30% 1C + 1:30 10
13:30 408 25% 30% 1C + 2:00 11
14:00 411 EJECT 1C + 2:30 9
The top filter IMO serves no purpose other than to remove smoke. I insulated my unit about three years ago and I have that area covered with a removable piece of insulation. There are pictures and discussion here on GCBC somewhere if you can find it. If anything that configuration helps roast times by preventing some heat loss out the top.I forgot to mention - most of the impact on my roasts was due to replacement of the top filter. I was pretty happy with my maintenance for the rear filters. It appears I was losing LOTS of heat from the top filter, since it had shrunk to 1/2 the original size.
Artisan software gives me better information on progress of the roast, with ability to compare prior roasts. I don't have the HTC controller board yet - but I plan to do so next year. I won't forget what I have learned about roasting "by hand".
Artisan software gives me better information on progress of the roast, with ability to compare prior roasts. I don't have the HTC controller board yet - but I plan to do so next year. I won't forget what I have learned about roasting "by hand".
Artisan software gives me better information on progress of the roast, with ability to compare prior roasts. I don't have the HTC controller board yet - but I plan to do so next year. I won't forget what I have learned about roasting "by hand".
The hardware to control the Hottop (from Jim Galt) ([url]http://www.mlgp-llc.com/htri/index.html[/url]) became available in February. I just ordered it today.
The hardware to control the Hottop (from Jim Galt) ([url]http://www.mlgp-llc.com/htri/index.html[/url]) became available in February. I just ordered it today.
How did the install go? I already have temp probes installed and I'm considering installing a HT/TC4. I'm interested in hearing your feedback on how difficult the install was.
I'm considering upgrading the roaster so that I can have more control and work with it and learn from it before I go big. It looks like for $320 I can take the roaster to 8828B-2 and possibly for a few $$ more take it to 8828B-2K.Jimbo,
Has anyone done this upgrade (or similar?) Do you feel like it was worth it? For anyone with the B-2 or B-2K do you feel like you have, more-or-less, full control over the roast?
Jimbo,
As I said previously, if you can go without wasting money on HT upgrade, go for the TC4 + HTC. Do check with JimG first though. He is great guy, busy at times, but aren't we all.
Look up at Homeroaster forum. I read about some new product that use native USB communication, not serial port communication...
HTC+TC4C on order. Stay tuned. Installation looks a bit involved, and fortunately the Hottop is not my regular roaster so I'll be able to take my time and hopefully not end up with a boat anchor at the end.
Jimbo
HTC+TC4C on order. Stay tuned. Installation looks a bit involved, and fortunately the Hottop is not my regular roaster so I'll be able to take my time and hopefully not end up with a boat anchor at the end.
Jimbo
Has anyone figured out how to rig a mirror or something so that you can see the front of the drum and the control panel at the same time?Once you have a TC4C why would you need to see the control board? It beeps, push a button continue :)
Susan
Has anyone figured out how to rig a mirror or something so that you can see the front of the drum and the control panel at the same time?Once you have a TC4C why would you need to see the control board? It beeps, push a button continue :)
Susan
The lack of trier and power drove me out of the HT. You should be able to get away with a quick glance at either I figure. I honestly watch BT and smoke more than the drum.
I also run a stored profile on my Hottop B that overrides most of the automatic changes that otherwise occur. Those are when it kicks the fan up to 75% after a few minutes and later when it drops the heat to 80%. The idea of saving a profile is from this post by Randy Glass on coffeegeek ([url]http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/homeroast/610920#610920[/url]).
I uploaded a 10 second video to show the NEW items displayed in artisan version 0.7.1. Near the top of the screen are three separate timers forTemperature at turning point is shown at bottom of BT curve. Sorry, but my vertical axis starts at 160 F, and does not display it fully.
- Elapsed time since turning point
- Projected time to drying (BT 300 F)
- Elapsed time since first crack
Edited 12/29 - corrected description of "drying time"
I've been playing around with my HotTop roaster top filter and bean roasting chute to get better heat retention. Several years ago I started a thread somewhere back in this forum about my insulation project. It's worked out nicely and this material is what I used to insulate the outside of the roaster.
[url]http://www.mcmaster.com/#9323k21/=pd7no1[/url] ([url]http://www.mcmaster.com/#9323k21/=pd7no1[/url])
I took some of this insulation and cut it into strips that could fit into the top filter to replace the material in there. I put two layers of insulation in there and it fit very well. I had also since the start of that insulation project just put a piece of insulation material on top of the filter and held it in place with a small wash towel. I wanted a cleaner solution and this seems to work really well after roasting tonight. For the bean chute I wanted to minimize smoke and heat loss out of the chute. I cut out a hole in a silicon baking sheet so the bean chute cover with my thermocouple probes fit snugly and taped it down with my heat resistant metal foil tape. That mod worked OK tonight and did minimize but not eliminate smoke coming out but I'm not sure about the longevity.
One preliminary finding is a hunch that the fan produced a more conductive effect on heat flow through the drum instead of acting totally like a brake on the roast.
After a week or two of roasting with the variation of Randy's filter from the previous po,t where only paper filter is replaced with metal filter, I can say that I have removed one unpredictable variable from my roasting.
Roast after roast, some 15 batches, very consistent and predictable results.
Air flow at different levels is pretty linear, so I can actively use all fan settings.
I will need to find replacement for the cloth at some point.
Until I find replacement, I will be buying filters and replace paper with metal filter. If someone will need paper parts of the filters I will be giving them for free.
The fan definitely blows out in the original configuration. The filter protects the fan, the air you breath and somewhat restricts airflow. Some feel the original filter changes air flow restriction as it becomes dirty and opt for a more consistent filter material. No filter would require a change in profile (as would different filtering materials), but it can be done if the opening where the filter holder is inserted is closed off. As far as filter materials go, besides metal mesh, some have used green scotch brite pads (with and without holders) to replace the filters with good results. I'd be concerned that paper towels might be too restrictive and prevent the fan from drawing air through the roasting chamber. Also, whatever material you use, it needs to be a fairly tight fit or the fan will just draw in air through the top of the filter holder opening.
I think i will save up a bit and go the htc tc4c down the line
The geeky scientist in me is tempted by the tc4c as well, but I've performed other less expensive mods (look up RAF on Homeroasters.org) that are giving me a very satisfying roasting experience. The tc4c would allow more consistency for sure, but I'm beginning to appreciate the art form of roasting more and more. Either way, the HotTop is a blast to use. Now if it just could roast larger batches....... Down the rabbit hole I go.
I bought metal filter that fits perfectly on HT:
[url]http://www.suntekstore.com/goods-10008829-aluminum_filter_dust_guard_12cm_120mm_for_pc_case_fan.html[/url] ([url]http://www.suntekstore.com/goods-10008829-aluminum_filter_dust_guard_12cm_120mm_for_pc_case_fan.html[/url])
First I used only the metal filter, but resistance is very low, and roasting was even dependent on outside weather as my HT is connected to vented hood.
Then I decided to put back original black cloth, and resulting filter gives very predictable results. Soaking in cafitza returns filter 100% efficiency. I will see how long the cloth will last.
The geeky scientist in me is tempted by the tc4c as well, but I've performed other less expensive mods (look up RAF on Homeroasters.org) that are giving me a very satisfying roasting experience. The tc4c would allow more consistency for sure, but I'm beginning to appreciate the art form of roasting more and more. Either way, the HotTop is a blast to use. Now if it just could roast larger batches....... Down the rabbit hole I go.
I simply LOVE the TC4C on my Hottop - best upgrade ever! But I am sorely tempted by other roaster choices with bigger capacity (aka Huky ([url]http://www.greencoffeebuyingclub.com/index.php?topic=18852.0[/url])).
I get my best results on the Hottop with only 195g. I normally do 4 roasts each week, which takes about 3 hours (including cool-down). Sometimes it is hard to carve out that much time on a Saturday.
Like you I had been roasting using batches from 175 to 195 gm to get my best results. I bout a variac so that I could maintain adequate voltage year round and it has made all the difference. At full power and 118-119 volts (for reference) I get equally good roasts of 227 gm. The variac is a great tool that I would not be without any longer. Perhaps my ET's are a touch higher but I've never seen tipped or scorched beans. Just a thought for you to get more output.+1
230g took 11:40 for 1st crack, 14:10 total roast time
200g took 10:20 for 1st crack, 12:50 total roast time
Turn temperatures on my bean temp probe are generally 175-185* and I keep the voltage at 118-119 when on full power. It is a very reproducible.
Curious, how hot is your charging temp and how long for your BT to get up to 300F or 149C? My development time is very similar for 230g, but I reach 1st C right around 10 minutes. I do use a variac and have insulated my roaster among other mods. Thanks in advance.I too have insulated my roaster, and replaced the heating element in September 2015. I use a wide range of charge temps, anywhere from 225F up to 425F. The time to first crack varies widely for different coffees that I roast.
I too have insulated my roaster, and replaced the heating element in September 2015. I use a wide range of charge temps, anywhere from 225F up to 425F. The time to first crack varies widely for different coffees that I roast.
For this particular bean I charged at 275F:
230g load - hit 300 at 6:30, took 11:40 for 1st crack, 14:10 total roast time
200g load - hit 300 at 5:50, took 10:20 for 1st crack, 12:50 total roast time