Hottop Profiles / Q&A / Tips & Tricks

[rgrosz78]

I started a new thread to post usage details on the TC4C:
www.greencoffeebuyingclub.com/index.php?topic=17702.0

[rgrosz78]

I also run a stored profile on my Hottop B that overrides most of the automatic changes that otherwise occur. Those are when it kicks the fan up to 75% after a few minutes and later when it drops the heat to 80%. The idea of saving a profile is from this post by Randy Glass on coffeegeek.

If any of you have done this, please note - you MUST recreate the dummy profile with different settings (100% fan and 100% heat) for use with Jim Gallt's TC4C controller. This is clearly noted in the documentation by both Barry and Jim.

[RobertL]

Danny Goot a roaster at SW's shared one of his Hottop profiles on their website. I find it interesting because it is exactly opposite of what I normally do. I've always thought it was best to give the beans full heat while the moisture content was high and then back off as they become dry. As you can see he starts off slow and turns up the heat as the beans become dry. I'll give his profile a try next time I roast and see how it works out.

Danny's usual starting point for his Hottop:

-200 grams of coffee (7 oz)
-Preheat until beeping stops, charge coffee and let it rip!
-Turn down to 40% heat through the drying period
-Back up to 100% until right before 1st crack then I drop to 80% heat.
-Sometimes I keep the heat at 100%... Whoa!

http://www.sweetmarias.com/library/node/9183

[fffolks]

I had serious doubts, but I tried it anyway. Total fail. I reached yellow at about 15:00 with a variac holding at 120v. I dumped beans at 20:00 and they were about 5:00 or more from reaching first crack. I'm not sure how this profile is possible!

[GC7]

Agree with fffolks- That profile is the antithesis of what I have learned about the chemistry of roasting.

[rgrosz78]

I uploaded a 10 second video to show the NEW items displayed in artisan version 0.7.1. Near the top of the screen are three separate timers for

• Elapsed time since turning point
• Projected time to drying (BT 300 F)
• Elapsed time since first crack

Temperature at turning point is shown at bottom of BT curve. Sorry, but my vertical axis starts at 160 F, and does not display it fully.

Edited 12/29 - corrected description of "drying time"

I just uploaded a much longer video about using the artisan software to replicate prior roasts. It is a bit hard to read the text in the video window below - click the youtube "graphic" for bigger version.

I made a few changes since the earlier video above:

• Reduced my standard charge from 215g down to 195g
  
• Changed definition of drying phase in artisan to start at 280F - due to my thermocouples, which read about 20F low
  

I have profiles for about 15 coffees that produce good results right now. I am using artisan to monitor the roast progress post 1st crack, and make adjustments to match the prior time / temp target.

Artisan usage 10-21-2014

[rgrosz78]

A new version of artisan (0.9) was released recently.
http://www.home-barista.com/home-roasting/artisan-v0-9-released-t33135.html

It has several new features, including a "bean density" calculation - I haven't used it yet.
http://artisan-roasterscope.blogspot.de/2014/11/batch-volume-and-bean-density.html

[rgrosz78]

 

I've been playing around with my HotTop roaster top filter and bean roasting chute to get better heat retention. Several years ago I started a thread somewhere back in this forum about my insulation project. It's worked out nicely and this material is what I used to insulate the outside of the roaster.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#9323k21/=pd7no1

I took some of this insulation and cut it into strips that could fit into the top filter to replace the material in there. I put two layers of insulation in there and it fit very well. I had also since the start of that insulation project just put a piece of insulation material on top of the filter and held it in place with a small wash towel. I wanted a cleaner solution and this seems to work really well after roasting tonight. For the bean chute I wanted to minimize smoke and heat loss out of the chute. I cut out a hole in a silicon baking sheet so the bean chute cover with my thermocouple probes fit snugly and taped it down with my heat resistant metal foil tape. That mod worked OK tonight and did minimize but not eliminate smoke coming out but I'm not sure about the longevity.

One preliminary finding is a hunch that the fan produced a more conductive effect on heat flow through the drum instead of acting totally like a brake on the roast.

I finally got around to insulating my Hottop - VERY pleased with the results. I was able to closely replicate a roast from July (80 degree temps) this past weekend (40 degree temps).

One minor error I made was in my choice of aluminum tape. It was not wide enough (only 1") and it would NOT stick to itself after the first roast!! I re-did my tape job a few times, and decided to order a different tape:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026HVCPM

[smico]

Can you post some pictures of your bundled up Hottop?
Thanks

[rgrosz78]

Without the shiny tape, these are not so pretty. First one shows cutouts for bean chute, second shows both layers of insulation taped down, third shows how tape came unstuck after first roast.

[rgrosz78]

Here are the two roasts of 215g of Yirgacheffe (Bodhi Leaf 2012):
07-19-2014 roast hits 1st crack at 11:06, end roast at 13:30
12-14-2014 roast hits 1st crack at 11:15, end roast at 13:45

The second roast uses the first one as the background. It shows a higher ET throughout, which is due to the added insulation. The smoother ROR curve is due to changes in my artisan settings over the last 5 months.

[antoine_t]

After a week or two of roasting with the variation of Randy's filter from the previous po,t where only paper filter is replaced with metal filter, I can say that I have removed one unpredictable variable from my roasting.
Roast after roast, some 15 batches, very consistent and predictable results.
Air flow at different levels is pretty linear, so I can actively use all fan settings.
I will need to find replacement for the cloth at some point.
Until I find replacement, I will be buying filters and replace paper with metal filter. If someone will need paper parts of the filters I will be giving them for free.

I recently bought an older P model (non K) and it didn't come with the rear filter holder at all.

 I have some folded up paper towel in there to act as a barrier.  Is that sufficient, or should I just purchase the rear filter holder?



also is the fan suppose to be blowing OUT from the back or blowing in towards the motor? 

Right now mine is blowing out but I am not sure if that's correct or not.  But if it blows in, the hot air wouldn't be able to leave the roaster?


thanks!

[ptrmorton]

The fan definitely blows out in the original configuration.  The filter protects the fan, the air you breath and somewhat restricts airflow.  Some feel the original filter changes air flow restriction as it becomes dirty and opt for a more consistent filter material. No filter would require a change in profile (as would different filtering materials), but it can be done if the opening where the filter holder is inserted is closed off. As far as filter materials go, besides metal mesh, some have used green scotch brite pads (with and without holders) to replace the filters with good results.   I'd be concerned that paper towels might be too restrictive and prevent the fan from drawing air through the roasting chamber.  Also, whatever material you use, it needs to be a fairly tight fit or the fan will just draw in air through the top of the filter holder opening.

[antoine_t]

The fan definitely blows out in the original configuration.  The filter protects the fan, the air you breath and somewhat restricts airflow.  Some feel the original filter changes air flow restriction as it becomes dirty and opt for a more consistent filter material. No filter would require a change in profile (as would different filtering materials), but it can be done if the opening where the filter holder is inserted is closed off. As far as filter materials go, besides metal mesh, some have used green scotch brite pads (with and without holders) to replace the filters with good results.   I'd be concerned that paper towels might be too restrictive and prevent the fan from drawing air through the roasting chamber.  Also, whatever material you use, it needs to be a fairly tight fit or the fan will just draw in air through the top of the filter holder opening.

Okay i think i will buy the rear filter just in case then.


As for the fan, it's blowing outwards right now,  I looked at the paper towel i had stuffed in between and after 3 roasts, there is zero residue or discolouring!


I think i will save up a bit and go the htc tc4c down the line

[ptrmorton]

I think i will save up a bit and go the htc tc4c down the line

The geeky scientist in me is tempted by the tc4c as well, but I've performed other less expensive mods that are giving me a very satisfying roasting experience.  The tc4c would allow more consistency for sure, but I'm beginning to appreciate the art form of roasting more and more.  Either way, the HotTop is a blast to use.  Now if it just could roast larger batches.......  Down the rabbit hole I go.