machine looks good.
motor was replaced pump is procon with filter. clean that (in pic its the big nut coming off the brass colored pump at a 45 degree downard angle / 5 o'clock facing pump with motor behind[front of silver motor])
want to give her a rebuild?
buy:
1 jug acid
(either high molar HCL from chem supplier, Muriatic acid from pool supply or CLR from plumbing / hardware. it is all the same chemically [I have a chemistry degree I vouch for this lie]) [don't try citric or vinegar it won't make you happy in the boiler and you will have all the time in the world to rinse this. if your paranoid you can bathe everything in a baking soda solution before assembling for freak level safety. {you better rinse the acid bath with water first obviously}
buy whatever you want for insulation of your boiler.
You do want to do that. Fancy is neoprene (less than .5inches thick) with cable binders. I like glasswool pipewrap as dante saw. its cheap easy to remove and i hate plastic. cover the glasswool with aluminum foil on both sides and it is very safe and very ugly
Buy 2 grouphead screens.
1 big gasket for your heating element (both at cafeparts.com espressoparts prlly wont do u on a conti)
the poopy wiring at homedepot is actually the appliance grade wiring thats good for 125 celsius so you can use that.
The head gaskets are big and connect the grouphead to your portafilter. they might be needed, if you don't love maintenance buy them too since you R in there.
DON'T buy screws from the supply pirates...
you need a nonsuds detergent too! Joeglo is automatic dishwashing detergent... again it isn't different but they pretend it is:p (I still own joeglo because I'm a good gullible consumer like that)
Tools:
wirebrush (king)
big buckets (big enough for your boiler, two of them unless your wife surrenders the bathtub)
hex and screwdrivers, vice grip
big rubber gloves (the yellow cleaning glove type is great)
How you wanna tear her down:
two choices
1.) just get her running
2.) clean her
1.)if you just want her running we assess what she needs.
2.)If you want to clean the inside of the boiler, there is no reason to test anything. (it may be pointless if it came from a proper water softened inlet. even after ten years!!!) In this case tear her apart by going like this:
a.) panels off set aside for scrubbing and cleaning session
b.) tag every wire with a description and take a picture with the tag on before you pull it off
(this isn't that critical if you mess up I can tell you where it goes)
c.) groupheads go first tear them all the way apart.
d.) steamwands and inlet pipes too
e.) now you have a collection of small parts bathe everything in acid solution [at MOST you need 1:50 acid:water; water as HOT as you can get it that drives the solubility of the scale!!! Hotter and less acid is safer and faster] (hot water spout, inlet from pump to boiler, 2 steamwands 2 groupheads.)
f.) the above step was really all the tricky small parts, lego puzzle them back together now. The steamwands will wand some grease at the joint. The white teflon rings you have found by now can look as mangled as they want you don't have to replace them.
g.) the solenoid valves were hopefully taken apart and bathed too (no mercy here that is important) [ don't bathe the actual electrical solenoids!]
h.) you now have all the tubes and their functional groups that went into the boiler shiny and rebuilt aside (if the small black rubber rings inside the solenoids got lost replace they rarely get brittle really)
i.) take the boiler out and remove the heating element from the side. Toss the junk gasket here.
j.) scoop as much as you can out the scale is in flakes. No flakes? your case is very minor.
k.) bathe both the heatign element and the boiler in entire form. (not assembled doh...) [on top the safety relief valve can also swim with them but be CERTAIN it's spring is smooth after the bath or we will replace that.
l.) Now you have the optional joy of doodling your frame (painting). Since your machien is sort of stainless its pointless but if you wanted it you would remove the pump assembly and the brainbox and go at it.
INTERRUPT::::: just looked at your pump pressure screw on pic at boiler right. You will likely have a ton of scale...so don't skip your pseudorebuild. do it! (if that white "corona alba" aroudn the screw facing the camera on the pump pic is made of scale your in for some fun and a slight leak at the screw. fixed by removing screw and addign a small amoutn of teflon tape [normal...]
YUP look at water connection inlet pipes you will have plenty or scale.
otherwise this machien did not see heavy use I seriously doubt anything will be broken.
How to fire her up if you must (or after your teardown):
If the pump has water you don't need any water pressure it just doesnt like drystarting. It isn't poopy like a diaphragm, but its not great to have the vane dryspin for long.
What does that mean?
Since we are safety and leak minded we want to start her with a limited water supply and not on a direct line. if the bucket is higher than the machine initially that is good enough in terms of getting your pump wet. After that it can lift over 2 meters (over 6 feet) and could care less.
You have to give the machine time to fill the entire boiler before switching on the heating element. Lucky for you every commercial machine has that 3 way switch
Now write to me and list all the things that don't work
postscriptum: After a lot of typos and babble I would love all the same pics with the higher resolution. feel free to use a wider camera angle capturing all of the sorroundings. Layout really tells me more than up close things. I know how every part looks as an individual. They are all the same. What interests me the most iswiring and general layout shots as those will help us make sure that you get her back together. (Don't worry its really easy, honestly)
