Green Coffee Buying Club
Coffee Discussion boards => RKDrums-GCBC forum => Topic started by: shep on December 09, 2006, 09:09:48 AM
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I am thinking of adding an RK drum to my roasting hierarchy. I have not purchased anything yet, including the grill. For those of you who are already traveling down this road, any advice or other tips you have picked up that you care to share before I begin? Any specific grill seemed to be better suited to the task, etc. Thanks.
Shep
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I got a charbroil grill with 47KBTU I think. It does a nice job. All you really need is rotisserie capability, which they all seem to have. Don't go too underpowered. I think Ron (Kyle) recommends 30KBTU + ....more power lets you make changes quicker, which can be useful. Some people scrounge thrift stores, garage sales, etc and you can get a grill for next to nothing.
I wimped out and bought the motor straight from him, but you could definitely get one on ebay cheaper. But then you'll need to mount it. Sort of a money vs. convenience tradeoff.
It is pretty much a turnkey operation. I had to drill a couple holes to attach my motor to the side ledge, but that was about it. The drum is the heart of the operation.
Highly recommended.
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Craigslist is a great place to find a grill that will work for cheap.
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As Chris mentioned, I see gas grills on Craig's List all the time. Just take some simple measurements to makes sure that the drum will fit. I've seen some grills that have a low profile lid that wouldn't clear the drum. I found a Sears grill at a local Sears parts center that was their floor model so it was fully assembled and only $75.
I also have the motor assembly from Ron. Setup was very easy. The learning curve was a little longer in that I had to learn how my grill/drum reacted to heat changes, how fast it would roast, etc. Once I had some roasts under my belt, I took permanent marker and marked the dial positions for the burners so I could repeat my results pretty closely.
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I got a 38RPM 1/4HP 115VAC motor brand new for $60 off of eBay. It has 375 in-lbs torque, which is way overkill - it should easily run my 7kg drum roaster when it's finished. If you are patient you can get an acceptable motor for about $20 on eBay. Then again, Ron's package setup is powerful and easy to put together, and it's on sale until December 15th...
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Thanks for the input. Now, how about sharing some of your cooling ideas.
Shep
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I use a box fan and a restaurant flour sifter. Go to walmart or ace hardware and get a box type fan. Go to a restaurant supply place and pic up a minimum 14" diameter round flour sifter (+/- $20). I blow the air through the bottom of the sifter which blows any remaining chaff all over the place (snowing chaff). In cooler weather, you can cool 2 lbs in less than 1 minute.
C.
That is what I did (before I got rid of my drum) - I got a round floor fan and 18" SS sifter like these below. The sifter fits perfectly when the fan is tilted straight up, and the slight ridge around the edge of the fan face keeps the sifter in place.
http://www.instawares.com/stainless-steel-sifter-18feet.jr3518.0.7.htm
http://www.sales-services.co.uk/html/chrome_16__floor_fan.html
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I was using the colander/bucket/shop vac setup until my buddy built me a blower with some surplus goodies he found around his apartment complex.
He's taken a 6 gallon bucket and cut a bunch of 2" holes with a hole saw in the lower half of the bucket. Then he took a kitchen exhaust fan (like the kind from over a stove) that was set in a square piece of wood, and cut the wood to the shape of the bucket, and dropped it in to the halfway point, so it is above all the big holes. He attached a 5 gallon SS stockpot with the bottom cut out to the top of the bucket, and dropped a grease 'splatter screen' inside - a very rigid screen indeed. The fan is VERY powerful, if you don't have enough beans in there, it will blow some right out. You do get a major chaff-storm.
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Ordered my drum tonight! I can't wait. I love the Hottop and it has served well under my abuse but I just finished roasting 12 pounds in the last two evenings after work and I am looking forward to a more efficient way.
Shep
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You're gonna love it Shep. I too had a HotTop for years and loved it. The one thing I didn't love was the small batch size and lack of roast temp control. You get ALL that with the RK Drum. I got the 4lb drum/heavy duty motor combo from Ron and it's fantastic. I've been roasting over the weekends and selling quality coffee (from the GCBC) to colleges at work. A large batch size and plenty of killer coffee from here is a dangerous combination! As for a cooling solution take Chris's advice and do the box fan sifter thing.. that's what I did and it works great! Oh and get a therocouple from SweetMarias for 30 bucks for temp monitoring that's key.
Have fun!
Dave
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Thanks for all the advice and encouragement. Ron wrote me back and told me if all goes well I will be taking delivery before Christmas! The grill is anxiously waiting in the garage.
Shep
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I just now saw this thread. I have been on the RK drum for several months now and the only thing I regret is the 35K BTU Weber I have. I dont have much control. When the wind blows forget about it. I have to put up a wind block just to get the inside hot enough to roast.
Good Luck and have fun!
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Are you folks using any insulation? I bought some 2300?F ceramic fiber insulation sheeting from McMaster-Carr to fully insulate the roasting chamber. I'm looking forward to attempting sub-zero roasts in the wind... :D
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Living in Indiana where it can get quite cold in the winter, I will keep the insulating idea in mind. We have a large pole barn with a concrete floor and three large bay doors. I should be able to roast out of one of those doors if the weather is inhospitable without creating any smoke or toxic fume issues. The roaster is scheduled to be here Monday, I have the next two weeks off and will soon have a full bag of Guatemala Trapichitos on the way...plenty of opportunity to practice!
Shep
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The Guatemala Trapichitos has good art on the bag! You'll dig that...
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Congrats on the RK. You'll love it!
I've roasted about 800lbs in mine. I've only got a 35k btu grille but haven't had any problems yet even on a couple of 20 degree nights.
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Just wondering if you might have a picture of your fine insulation work? I did a search and found that stuff to be reasonably priced.
Are you folks using any insulation? I bought some 2300?F ceramic fiber insulation sheeting from McMaster-Carr to fully insulate the roasting chamber. I'm looking forward to attempting sub-zero roasts in the wind... :D
Also I had some dissappointing roasts when my propane got low. Does anyone use a large tank or hook up to natural gas?
Troy
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I was wondering about propane monitoring myself. I would hate to run out in the middle of a 4 pound roast! I suppose once you have gone through a tank you would have some idea about how many roasts you can achieve.
Shep
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I was wondering about propane monitoring myself. I would hate to run out in the middle of a 4 pound roast! I suppose once you have gone through a tank you would have some idea about how many roasts you can achieve.
Shep
I get 50 roasts out of a tank. I keep notes on every roast and number them. I also pick up the tank and swirl the propane around to feel how much is in there.
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Hey- RK-heads!
What's the diameter of the RK drum? I'm trying to salvage my previous purchases for my roaster design, and I want to know if the drum will work...
Thanks!
-Brock
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8" diameter on my 4lb RK
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cool. thanks.
I'd have asked Ron, but I didn't want to bug him. I imagine he's pretty busy right now. :)
Thanks again!
-Brock
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My RK came today. I have been crazy busy so I had little time to devote to it. I do have it all together, lined up and ready to try out. I had a little trouble lining things up as my grill seems rather wide. Mainly it was my lack of focus and attention though. I was just too busy to mess with it but I could not leave it alone! I sent Ron a note with a question and he wrote me back 3 times. This man provides great customer service! I ordered mine on Thursday, he built it that night and shipped it out the next day.
Shep
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I just wanted to update my experience with my new RK Drum. I have now ran 19 roasts and about 40+ pounds of coffee through it. About midway the Char-Broil thermometer started acting up so I cannibalized the thermometer off my home grill...much more accurate now. I have experimented with batch size some. I have some equipment coming that will allow me to cool 4 pounds but it iis not here yet so the largest batch I have done is 2.5 pounds. My last effort came out perfect. I have roasted in some pretty strong wind and in temps down to about 35 degrees with no problem. Although I am not a fan of the French Roast I roasted up the most beautiful Mexican Chiapas Decaf French Roast that I have ever produced. My neighbor loved it! I just recieved a thermocouple and am looking at mounting it...just for fun! Love the drum and highly recommend it.
Shep
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I recommend a second propane tank. That way if it dies, you're not screwed. You can swap it out in a minute, which will affect your roast, but you won't lose it.
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I recommend a second propane tank. That way if it dies, you're not screwed. You can swap it out in a minute, which will affect your roast, but you won't lose it.
Yes, good idea. In fact, I not only cannibalized my temp gauge, I stole the tank off my other grill as a backup until I can purchase another one. I ran a roast today of the Puerto Rico coffee and used my thermocouple for the first time. I noticed that it jumps around a fair amount. I thought about slipping it through some copper tubing as I saw someone else do. Think this would help control the erratic readings from the thermocouple? I also observed that even though the termocouple probe and the thermometer are both inserted in the front of the grill in a similar location, there was an average of 80 degrees differenced in reading. The thermocouple was probably an inch or more closer to the drum, which may explain some of that.
Shep
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I don't have a thermocouple myself, but I feel like i read somewhere about someone wrapping some aluminum foil arount the thermocouple to help prevent the fluctuations. I think he said it worked. Maybe someone here remembers or knows....
I bought a replacement thermometer for my stock one, but never installed it. Anything that is reproducible should give you good results....Enjoy!!
-nimbus
I recommend a second propane tank. That way if it dies, you're not screwed. You can swap it out in a minute, which will affect your roast, but you won't lose it.
Yes, good idea. In fact, I not only cannibalized my temp gauge, I stole the tank off my other grill as a backup until I can purchase another one. I ran a roast today of the Puerto Rico coffee and used my thermocouple for the first time. I noticed that it jumps around a fair amount. I thought about slipping it through some copper tubing as I saw someone else do. Think this would help control the erratic readings from the thermocouple? I also observed that even though the termocouple probe and the thermometer are both inserted in the front of the grill in a similar location, there was an average of 80 degrees differenced in reading. The thermocouple was probably an inch or more closer to the drum, which may explain some of that.
Shep
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On the thermocouple idea:
I have a large temp monitor that used to be on one of my espresso machines. I bought a thermocouple that could take 600+ degree temps without melting (important) and drilled a hole through my grill just below the handle or right about where I think the bean mass sits. I put a sheet pan and some broken ceramic tiles (in the sheet pan) over the elements and then ran it for a while. There was about a half inch gap between the sheet pan edge and the side of the grill and naturally heat and flame would leak through that gap.
I then switched to a slightly larger sheet pan that goes all the way to the grill edge. The recorded temps are 100 degrees different. I added an oven thermometer (mechanical variety) as a sort of gut check. It confirmed the new readings. The truth is that I experimented until I found what I though were useful temps. When I ran Ron's number (ramp to 470 then to 500 then back off a bit) it would take almost 16 minutes to get to first crack. Eventually I found the right temp for my grill and the thermocouple said 580 F. After replacing the sheet pan I realized the difference.
I guess absolute temp readings aren't really relevant but consistent readings are. Just a little tidbit of knowledge sharing.
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Just a quick question to crholliday
Did you end up keeping the sheet that went all the way to the edges? if so what are your total roast times?
Thanks
I got a k-type probe for xmas, I will be installing it soon. I want to have best placement. I too saw the copper tubing install and I am leaning toward that type.
Troy
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Did you end up keeping the sheet that went all the way to the edges? if so what are your total roast times?
Troy
I did keep the aforementioned sheet. My total roast times vary between 12 and 18 minutes depending on things like: size of batch, ambient temp, beans, roast, etc.
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My old grill died and replacing the rusted burner would be throwing good money after bad. Time to buy, with the future in mind (RK Drum down the road at some point).
Questions (RK site down, though Shane did have it active in past month)
1) Off brands with 42K BTUs at less than $200 (Aussie, Grill Pro, etc). Mistake? Stick with Weber? What other are good labels out there?
2) RK Site is down. 42K and up about right for doing 4 lbs?
3) Can the grill be used for dual purposes, BBQ and coffee roasting?
4) Look for one with rotisserie or go with heavy duty RK rotisserie? How many oom-pa-pa's should the motor have? (OK, I was a business major.) Might jump in on the promotional that Tom arranged with Shane, 15% off.
What else should I be aware of as I begin this shopping expedition?
B|Java
PS: You will note a lessening of the zingers at my 86th Street budd. I think I will need his mechanical abilities at some point in this effort so it will be a 3 month "be kind to curmudgeon" effort.
Three months is a very long time...
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It's good you're going for 42 and not 36. 36 isn't enough for me to do 3lb. net unless it's summer and I don't mind getting to 1st in 16:00. Although the two times I did that the coffee tasted fantastic. With insulation it may be a different story. Insulation on 42 may make it difficult to control in the summer with small batches.
I'm not sure what the heavy duty RK rotisserie is but the ones that come with the grill always seem to be bent or get bent just enough to clunk from my experience and reading from others.
I got help in assembling it and was very grateful. Some greens for barter should do it.
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I got help in assembling it and was very grateful. Some greens for barter should do it.
Helping with your assembly was my pleasure. I would certainly extend the same to B|orton, just to shed some of his wrongfully alleged curmudgeon label. And that would be my main reason to suggest going with the RK setup; it should simply bolt together and not need 'customization'.
The main issue with rotisseries included with grills is their too-slow speed. They're generally 6rpm, you want 50-60.
Users of the BBQ for roasting will have to chime in on using it for grilling and roasting. I hear it works, but don't know anyone who does it.
You can, and still should, send zingers this way. It's the only way I know you care.
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When he said rotisserie for some reason I thought he meant the rod. Most definitely you need the RK motor. And if you can get one of those rods that Charly speaks of that would be good too.
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I had a friendly machinist help me get my RK drum unit set up to my grill. He still gets free coffee when he wants it, years later-I'll need his help again soon when I get a new grill. I think that using the same grill for cooking, a couple of times a week, as well as roasting every day between 2 and 8 hours wore out the grill a little faster than if it was dedicated to coffee, meat drippings clog the gas vents faster than coffee ash, but forgetting to turn the gas off just a couple of times in 5 years caused warping of the grill body when it got super hot. Lucky I didn't burn my house down.
The RK motor I got still runs great and it's always been out on my porch in minus 40 to plus 105 degree weather, constant chaff storms, snow and rain when the wind can blow it under the porch roof, high heat when I left the burners going after roasting...tough motor! Attaching the motor to the grill is easy but then what? I have 1/2" round stainless steel rods pounded into each end of the drum (they don't bend and wobble) and a "spider" connector to the motor rod and on the other end the really tricky part was how to hold up the other rod without it squealing and eating it's way through whatever it sits on as it spins. Some people found bearings that can sit on the grill body and handle the heat. I had graphite saddles made to sit in little steel boxes bolted onto each side of the grill for supporting the steel rods.
I still haven't got around to insulating the grill for winter roasting and I just pre heat the grill a lot, and place the empty drum on top until it's pre heated before filling and roasting. With insulation I'll want a forced air modification something like Ed Needham's for roasting the delicate beans like dp ethiopians which have me opening the grill lid when 1st crack starts now, without any insulation (never need to do that with most other greens).
I think that my grill is a 42K BTU.
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If you buy ceramic insulation you can get by with as little as 30k BTU. Off the shelf, BBQ grills are incredibly inefficient at holding in the heat. I have the old-school 5lb RK drum, and used a well-insulated cheapy 30 or 32k CharGrill for a long time. I think the ratio of BTU to volume is another thing that many folks don't consider: if you have 42k BTU and a 700 square inch grill cross-section that is 60 BTU per sq in., if you have 30k BTU and 400 sq in grill cross section that is 75 BTU per square inch, which actually gets you 25% more heat directed to where it belongs. I think that the total volume of the grill cavity and the area encompassed by the burner 'footprint' shoulc be matched to the size of your drum. If you don't have decent insulation, and half of the burner flames are nowhere near your drum, you are just wasting propane.
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Thanks all. I did some comparison shopping and grabbed a Kenmore (Char Broil manufactured), 50K. Last year's model, clearance $325 at Sears.
Time to read up on ceramic insulation that BW suggests and look at RK site. The Czarina has already suggested an RK drum just so that I may take the lead back from Peter and his toy collection.
B|Java
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OK Wild Bill, which one. You know I don't know squat about things that go 'whirrrrrrr.'
http://www.sciplus.com/
I don't need a science project unless you are coming up to help with it <grins>.
B|Java
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50K with insulation wow. You'll be able to do 4 lbs in 5 1/2 minutes.
I might like to see the insulation when it's done.
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OK Wild Bill, which one. You know I don't know squat about things that go 'whirrrrrrr.'
[url]http://www.sciplus.com/[/url]
I don't need a science project unless you are coming up to help with it <grins>.
B|Java
the one I have looks like this one (http://www.sciplus.com/recommend.cfm/recommendid/12359) but it is 110vac and ~~60rpm the fan blade goes fast and the shaft on the other side is slow... the local store may have others that the web does not... or it is the nature of surplus and they are out at this time...
I will find the one I have for more details... I think it is very similar to ones I have seen for the BBQ roasters...
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Never one to tell a flying goat what to do, I would strongly suggest buying the RK motor/bracket thingie. If you try piecing things together with a separate motor, you'll be well into retirement before the thing roasts any coffee. Unless you have buddies with machining/fabrication skills and have the patience to boot, I don't see it in the cards.
Just my two cents, but I like you Mr. Borton, and don't want to see you sacrifice what little sanity you have left.
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peter may be on to something their... I since you are looking to roast some coffee; as am I, however I am enjoying the build as much as the coffee :)
(When is the next open sky roast off?? I better get back to my total solar roaster build)
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peter is probably on something... I since you are looking to roast some coffee; as am I, however I am enjoying the build as much as the coffee :)
Enjoy the build? Enjoy the build?
We had to take two years of "Industrial Shop," grades 7th and 8th. I hated it.
B|Java
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peter is probably on something... I since you are looking to roast some coffee; as am I, however I am enjoying the build as much as the coffee :)
Enjoy the build? Enjoy the build?
We had to take two years of "Industrial Shop," grades 7th and 8th. I hated it.
B|Java
in that case order the kit and you will be a very happy roaster.. :)
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Are you folks using any insulation? I bought some 2300?F ceramic fiber insulation sheeting from McMaster-Carr to fully insulate the roasting chamber. I'm looking forward to attempting sub-zero roasts in the wind... :D
Greg, which sheeting did you use? How did you get the sheeting to adhere to the roaster top?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-insulation/=36ohao
B|Java
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Are you folks using any insulation? I bought some 2300?F ceramic fiber insulation sheeting from McMaster-Carr to fully insulate the roasting chamber. I'm looking forward to attempting sub-zero roasts in the wind... :D
Greg, which sheeting did you use? How did you get the sheeting to adhere to the roaster top?
[url]http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-insulation/=36ohao[/url]
B|Java
This is what I would like to see but haven't been willing to do myself. And if it comes in quantities that are more than you need I'd be willing to buy some from you.
Doing it right away should certainly pay for itself.
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Are you folks using any insulation? I bought some 2300?F ceramic fiber insulation sheeting from McMaster-Carr to fully insulate the roasting chamber. I'm looking forward to attempting sub-zero roasts in the wind... :D
Greg, which sheeting did you use? How did you get the sheeting to adhere to the roaster top?
[url]http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-insulation/=36ohao[/url]
B|Java
This stuff is pricey... the moldable could be used to make a hood that limits the space around the drum and keeps your heat more controllable... the foil faced one looks good, but it is a ribbon not a sheet :(
Ultra-High Temperature Moldable Sheets
* Temperature Range: -120° to +2732° F
* Heat Flow Rate (K-factor): 1.2 Btu/hr. x in./sq. ft. @ 1200° F
* Density: 75 lbs./cu. ft.
* Color: White
Just dampen, shape, and dry. These sheets can even be rewetted and reshaped before exposed to heat. Sheets are rigid until they are soaked. You can also cut them with a utility knife for a custom fit.
Thick. Size Each
1/16" 23" x 24" 93615K14 $131.25
1/8" 23" x 24" 93615K16 153.06
1/4" 23" x 24" 93615K18 196.08
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This stuff is pricey... the moldable could be used to make a hood that limits the space around the drum and keeps your heat more controllable... the foil faced one looks good, but it is a ribbon not a sheet :(
1/16" 23" x 24" 93615K14 $131.25
1/8" 23" x 24" 93615K16 153.06
1/4" 23" x 24" 93615K18 196.08
Yikes. Is there any other kind of insulation?
I shouldn't have made my offer so quickly.
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I'll have to look at the box to see what the part number was - I'm not sure that I see the same material out there on McMaster now. The (somewhat rigid) stuff I used was about 1/2" thick by 24" wide and I got 6 feet of it for about $50. I used a utility knife to notch it where it folds. I used pop rivets and washers on my old grill but I just have it clipped on to my new one with binder clips. I need to order some more for my current pro(crastination)ject... I think the packing slip is still on the outside of the box, I'll check it when I get home (actually tomorrow morning more likely).
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I had some McMaster stuff slated for the production ring roaster, but now I see they have some new stuff I'll have to consider. :P
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Big Mike is assisting me install the RK drum on the grill tomorrow. (Edited out the price increase on the cooler units). I misread. The bean cooler, not the RK drum jumped in price.
B|Java
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Big Mike is assisting me install the RK drum on the grill tomorrow. Glad I bought when I did. Price alert:
So with all that, I'm going to have to price these in at $649 and $715 respectively for the basic and deluxe units. The honest truth is, at those prices, RK makes $0 in profit and is straight cost of build to you. That's a poor decision from a business standpoint, but I feel it is a great unit that we have put hundreds of hours of work into and I don't want to scrap it just based on price alone. I realize that this is going to price some of you out of the game. . .
[url]http://www.rkdrums.com/index.htm[/url] ([url]http://www.rkdrums.com/index.htm[/url])
B|Java
Just to avoid any confusion, the price alert above is for the new (very cool) bean cooler, NOT the RK Drum.
Jims|Java
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I really like my RK drum. You will be happy with your new toy.
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I still need to insulate my RK Drum setup and I've been looking at Aerogel. I've also looked at the ceramic fiber insulation but it's really pricey.
Aspen Aerogel video presentation (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2TbHTU-QNs&feature=player_embedded#)
Up until recently the material only came in sheets of foam that was very fragile and VERY expensive. Recently some companies have been selling the Aerogel materiel in sheets for use in home insulation (http://www.unplggd.com/unplggd/aerogel-becomes-affordable-as-a-home-insulator-107942). The first thing that cam to mind when I read that article was that it would make a great insulation for my roasting setup.
I had actually thought about making a fitted cover that would slide over the grill instead of lining the inside.
I had also thought about placing fire bricks, like what it used in kilns, in the bottom of the grill to help store and radiate heat.
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I was just thinking about Ron while I was roasting the other day and felt kind of sad.
I had no idea the business was still going. That's great to hear.
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Big Mike is assisting me install the RK drum on the grill tomorrow. (Edited out the price increase on the cooler units). I misread. The bean cooler, not the RK drum jumped in price.
B|Java
Dave I'm glad you are getting your RK up and running. You will be very happy with it. Let me know how it does :)
Tom
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Big Mike took the lead; I followed.
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On/off switch with the RK motor (50 rpm). Sucker flies.
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Burn off roast.
I am using 2.3 lb roasts, hoping to get my profiling a bit down. I am using seasoning beans I snagged from Royal past crop, $1/lb. Have plenty.
Got to first crack at 11:30; pulled at 13:45. Not a bad way to start. Will work thru several more burn off roasts, learning the ropes. Next stop is to grab some welder's gloves. Baking gloves aren't going to hack it.
Using Curly''s model for building a cooling unit. Should finish that next week-end and be set to go.
Thanks again Tom.
B|Java
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I see you got a Turbo bean cooler behind the RK motor
It's so good it could probably cool a whole house.
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Burn off roast.
I am using 2.3 lb roasts, hoping to get my profiling a bit down. I am using seasoning beans I snagged from Royal past crop, $1/lb. Have plenty.
Got to first crack at 11:30; pulled at 13:45. Not a bad way to start. Will work thru several more burn off roasts, learning the ropes. Next stop is to grab some welder's gloves. Baking gloves aren't going to hack it.
Using Curly''s model for building a cooling unit. Should finish that next week-end and be set to go.
Thanks again Tom.
It looks great. Glad you like it. I use the Ove Glove which you can find at Walgreens here in NC or Amazon.com
[url]http://www.amazon.com/Ove-Glove-Hot-Surface-Handler/dp/B001HIGAMQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1275879686&sr=8-3[/url] ([url]http://www.amazon.com/Ove-Glove-Hot-Surface-Handler/dp/B001HIGAMQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1275879686&sr=8-3[/url])
Tom
B|Java
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The Ove Glove is great. My wife bought me one of the original Ove Gloves, but recently I found a knock-off brand at Big Lots for $7 a pair. That's about half the retail price for a single OG. The Big Lots gloves lack the silicone grippy stripes but they work just as well as the original.
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maybe a little hotter rating (http://www.artcoinc.com/gloves.php)
(http://www.artcoinc.com/glove-athth.jpg)
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After a few years my Ove Gloves are finally starting to wear and it's a matter of how much pain I can tolerate before I buy more. They're great. The ones in the picture above look different than mine so maybe they've improved them.
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I grabbed some welder's gloves, with xlong forearm coverage. I know my ability to burn myself. I had an Ove Glove and didn't find them it to the game at hand even with just baking.
B|Java
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Oh, P.S. I can hear the beans cracking again!
For those of you long experienced on the drum, are you able to do 230 gram roasts? Might fall back on the Gene for those sample roasts as I know the profiling I need there. Hate to pooch a sample, ya know? <Grapefruit served to my CoffeeFest rockstar friend...>
B|Java
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Oh, P.S. I can hear the beans cracking again!
For those of you long experienced on the drum, are you able to do 230 gram roasts? Might fall back on the Gene for those sample roasts as I know the profiling I need there. Hate to pooch a sample, ya know? <Grapefruit served to my CoffeeFest rockstar friend...>
B|Java
I used to do 113g roasts. I now regularly do 226g roasts. No problem with either in my smallish grill.
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Rock and roll.
Welders gloves. Check.
Fan. Check.
1100 grams => 2.0 lbs roasted
Pliers for cotter pin (never set them down and forget where you put them)
I have to figure out what to do about beans stuck in the vane. At one end, there is a 1/8" gap and with every batch, I am getting a line-up stuck in there. Of course, it is at the end away from the opening. Fun to deal with when you have the next back ready to roll and you are fiddling to get 5 beans out. Grrrr....
Learning to profile just by wasting a bunch of burn-offs from Royal - $1/lb. 1100 grams leaves me with 2 lbs. Getting 1st crack at 11:25 so I am lowering temp on all 4 burners to medium at 11:00. Need to enter 1st a little bit more gently. I was rocketing thru w/all 4 burners on high and cutting 2 down at 1C plus 30 seconds. Too much heat.
We'll figure this out.
Then the ambient temperature will change. <Grins>.
B|Java
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I am wondering about using a piece of tin, stainless steel, aluminum, aluminum foil -- something to plug that gap. 5-6 old soldiers, every roast. Been using a BBQ fork.
B|Java
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Or, look for something metal (wire?) or even silicone, that can be wedged in those spots permanently.
Edit; your half-German brain got there before mine.
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Or, look for something metal (wire?) or even silicone, that can be wedged in those spots permanently.
Edit; your half-German brain got there before mine.
1/4, only a quarter.
B|Java
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Whole new ball game with this RK. Running thru 1st crack was a breeze on those burnoffs. Now that I am working with the real McBolivians, I have tried slowing it down and it will be a while but we will get there.
Physics of heat is fascinating. This ain't no Gene Cafe we are playing with Bubba. 2 lbs of beans amasses a whole kittenkabootle of heat. Say you want to play with the heat of a 90-kilo Probat? Whole new level of respect. For heat. For roastmasters.
B|NoviceAllOverAgain
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Those welder's gloves are great until...
You catch a bean down the long cuff and it directs it right to the back of your hand. Man, did I move quickly.
B|Java
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Those welder's gloves are great until...
You catch a bean down the long cuff and it directs it right to the back of your hand. Man, did I move quickly.
B|Java
Yow. I never thought about that. I know you're not thrilled with Ove Gloves but I love them. I keep a house key in one of them so I don't get locked out of the house.
I've never had a problem with beans in the vane. Maybe I should check to see if anything is in there.
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+1 on the Ove Glove! It allows more agility than the welders gloves did for me and after over 100 roasts in the past year, I got to the point where I could remove the cotter pin with my fingers( in the glove ) instead of having to use pliers. The more you roast with the RK, the more automatic the load/unload motions become. Have fun!
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Proof positive that you can teach an old goat new tricks.
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Pliers? That sure throws a wrench into the mix. If 2nd crack starts I don't have time for pliers.
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Has anyone upgrade to the new latch system for the RK Drum?
(http://www.rkdrums.com/IMAG0073-350.jpg)(http://www.rkdrums.com/IMAG0075-350.jpg)
I've read horror stories about the cotter pin coming out and dumping the entire contents of the roasting drum inside the grill. Fortunately this has never happened to me, but I am still thinking about upgrading to the new latch system. I also think that the new latch would be easier to manipulate when wearing gloves. Sometimes the cotter pin can be difficult when I've got gloves on.
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I will be playing with Boot's so-called S-curve profile. I have too much heat going into 1st crack. With hard beans, he suggests using the 2min mark (coming out of 1st crack) as time to reapply heat. Need to learn how to work with the exothermic phase as it is so minimal on 230 grams in the Gene.
http://www.bootcoffee.com/roastprofiling.html (http://www.bootcoffee.com/roastprofiling.html)
B|Java
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I forgot to mention, with the small roasts, or any, when the humidity is high it's hard to lower the heat. When I'm doing a small roast, when first crack starts I often have to turn the burners all the way down and open the lid periodically or it just won't go down far enough.
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I forgot to mention, with the small roasts, or any, when the humidity is high it's hard to lower the heat. When I'm doing a small roast, when first crack starts I often have to turn the burners all the way down and open the lid periodically or it just won't go down far enough.
For sure. For DP Ethiopians, and some decafs, opening the lid while lowering the gas all the way after beggining 1st is mandatory, small roasts or large- open for a longer time if a big roast. Also, when the temp ramp is obviously too fast a little lid raising before 1st crack is needed and works neatly to correct things.
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Whole new ball game with this RK. Running thru 1st crack was a breeze on those burnoffs. Now that I am working with the real McBolivians, I have tried slowing it down and it will be a while but we will get there.
Physics of heat is fascinating. This ain't no Gene Cafe we are playing with Bubba. 2 lbs of beans amasses a whole kittenkabootle of heat. Say you want to play with the heat of a 90-kilo Probat? Whole new level of respect. For heat. For roastmasters.
B|NoviceAllOverAgain
Dave got any pictures of your RK setup?
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thcoffee,
Our setups are almost the same :headbang: :icon_thumleft:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/coffee%20related/Drum%20Roaster/DrumRoaster13.jpg)
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headchange4u what does your cooling tray look like? The grill does look like mine $170 from Lowes. I did the sheet metal mods but I am thinking of taking it off because some roast go too fast.
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Been playing on the RK all day. Fascinating the difference in profiling on it vs the Gene. I have learned to slow down on the heat prior to 1 crack so it doesn't scream thru 1st. Then modulating that heat at the right point so there is a continuous amount of heat added back in to prevent a drop in the temp.
Lots to learn but a delightful learn. When Herr Schmidt comes over, going to ask him to play engineer and come up with some ideas for plugging that vent that Tom slammed sheet metal/alum over - about 2" by the width of the top. I would like to figure out something that is inserted with tension so it can be inserted as well as removed.
B|Java
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I bought my grill at the local Good Will for $60. It had hardly been used. Here's my recently revamped cooling setup (http://www.greencoffeebuyingclub.com/index.php?topic=9628.msg148714#msg148714). I've also closed up the back and just recently I lined the bottom of the grill with fire bricks to help seal up that removable tray in the bottom. I'm also looking into insulating the grill somehow. Right now the cheapest option seems to be using a welding blanket to cover the outside. People have used them to insulate smokers (http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27937&highlight=&sid=f6ec7f9794caf11a0ffb1ead610d3f19) with good results.
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What is that rubber "coupling" called (like a U joint on a car) that connects the rotisserie spit and the shaft of the motor? I need to order spares. I know the end of this book.
I will do a group buy on the bugga's and have them available.
B|Java
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Been playing on the RK all day. Fascinating the difference in profiling on it vs the Gene. I have learned to slow down on the heat prior to 1 crack so it doesn't scream thru 1st. Then modulating that heat at the right point so there is a continuous amount of heat added back in to prevent a drop in the temp.
Profiling on an RK is very different from any other roaster I've used to date. I really miss not being able to monitor the temp of the actual bean mass. One day I'll figure out how to get a probe inside the drum ::)
I tend to bring the heat up as soon as I hear first crack. When FC really gets rolling I cut the heat back almost to it's lowest setting and let things coast on through FC. I'll slowly increase the temp again as FC starts to peter out.
I would be grateful to hear other RK drum users' profiling method
Finally, what is that rubber "coupling" called (like a U joint on a car) that connects the rotisserie spit and the shaft of the motor? I need to order spares. I know the end of this book.
B|Java
The RK website calls those a Spider Grommet (http://www.rkdrums.com/spider.htm). They are 3 for $15. I've been needing an extra one also. I've not lost mine yet, but I've almost misplaced it several times. Most often it ends up in the cooling tray. I would be interested in a couple if you do a GB.
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When Herr Schmidt comes over, going to ask him to play engineer and come up with some ideas for plugging that vent
At fist I thought you wanted him to dress up or something.
Tom slammed sheet metal/alum over - about 2" by the width of the top.
He does have his moods.
If I did anything special to keep heat in I'd made sure it's removable unless your climate/paradise is pretty constant.
Please excuse typos. I'm really having a hard time getting things right with pain pills after surgery.
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When Herr Schmidt comes over, going to ask him to play engineer and come up with some ideas for plugging that vent
At fist I thought you wanted him to dress up or something.
Tom slammed sheet metal/alum over - about 2" by the width of the top.
He does have his moods.
If I did anything special to keep heat in I'd made sure it's removable unless your climate/paradise is pretty constant.
Please excuse typos. I'm really having a hard time getting things right with pain pills after surgery.
Jeffo ... nice to see you back here actively.
How are you feeling?
I know you can't keep a good man down.
:)
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What is that rubber "coupling" called (like a U joint on a car) that connects the rotisserie spit and the shaft of the motor? I need to order spares. I know the end of this book.
I will do a group buy on the bugga's and have them available.
B|Java
Yea I been meaning to pick some up also, group buy would be good for me too. I will check with a local hardware store here in Lexington they have plenty of parts and they are good on price I will let you know what price they are.
Tom
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What is that rubber "coupling" called (like a U joint on a car) that connects the rotisserie spit and the shaft of the motor? I need to order spares. I know the end of this book.
I will do a group buy on the bugga's and have them available.
B|Java
Yea I been meaning to pick some up also, group buy would be good for me too. I will check with a local hardware store here in Lexington they have plenty of parts and they are good on price I will let you know what price they are.
Tom
Don't know what shaft diameter the RK uses, but what you want is a Lovejoy Jaw Coupling.
http://xrl.in/5s5t (http://xrl.in/5s5t)
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What is that rubber "coupling" called (like a U joint on a car) that connects the rotisserie spit and the shaft of the motor? I need to order spares. I know the end of this book.
I will do a group buy on the bugga's and have them available.
B|Java
Yea I been meaning to pick some up also, group buy would be good for me too. I will check with a local hardware store here in Lexington they have plenty of parts and they are good on price I will let you know what price they are.
Tom
Don't know what shaft diameter the RK uses, but what you want is a Lovejoy Jaw Coupling.
[url]http://xrl.in/5s5t[/url] ([url]http://xrl.in/5s5t[/url])
The Jaw coupling lasts forever, it's the spider grommets that wear out or fall off and get lost. I bought a bunch a few years ago, they were very cheap-the shipping was more than the grommets-but I'm on my last one (I roast every day, sometimes for hours) and I've lost my notes with the supplier's website. Somewhere deep in my emails is a note from RK with that info.....
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...The Jaw coupling lasts forever, it's the spider grommets that wear out or fall off and get lost. I bought a bunch a few years ago, they were very cheap-the shipping was more than the grommets-but I'm on my last one (I roast every day, sometimes for hours) and I've lost my notes with the supplier's website. Somewhere deep in my emails is a note from RK with that info.....
Yep, spider grommet it is. I have the exact part number. They have a Buna-N (polymer) one for $1.71 (plus shipping) and a urethane one for $6.15. From what I have read, the Buna-N will more that meet our needs and actually does better with heat.
Hearing no objections, I will do a group buy on the Buna-N spiders and can get these out: 3 for $7.06 shipped to your door. Go?
B|Java
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...The Jaw coupling lasts forever, it's the spider grommets that wear out or fall off and get lost. I bought a bunch a few years ago, they were very cheap-the shipping was more than the grommets-but I'm on my last one (I roast every day, sometimes for hours) and I've lost my notes with the supplier's website. Somewhere deep in my emails is a note from RK with that info.....
Yep, spider grommet it is (they catalog refers to it as a spider. I have the exact part number. They have a Buna-N (polymer) one for $1.71 and a urethane one for $6.15. From what I have read, the Buna-N will more that meet our needs and does better with heat.
Hearing no objections, I will do a group buy on the Buna-N spiders and can get these out: 3 for $6.75 shipped to your door. Go?
B|Java
Works for me, thanks Dave let me know when I need to send you a PayPal. I am good for 3.
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It's great to see how the RK drum business is doing! What I can't understand, however, is what to me seems like the biggest fault with the whole process-good bearings for the rotisserie rod to spin on. On the site I see that they still show the rods sitting on the side of the grill. Noise! Grill metal being eaten on every turn!
Good grief, I did that for one week before I couldn't stand it anymore and had a machinist make me some graphite saddles held up by little steel open topped boxes bolted to the outside of the grill box. Others use some kind of heat resistant, off the shelf bearings.that sit (IIRC) in the rotisserie cutouts, around the rod.
The latch looks good, but I'm still ok with the paper clip I replaced the cotter pin and chain with. Needle nosed pliers to pull it out with, easy.
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Payment sent.
Now we need to find the drum latches ([url]http://www.rkdrums.com/latch.htm[/url]) so I can do a GB on those ;D
I talked with Shane about this, he said he could not do a group buy on the latches. The latches are about as low as he can go on the RK website.............he did say he may let me do another GCBC group buy on the RK Drum.
Is it time to do another group buy for the RK? Any interest?
Tom
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It's great to see how the RK drum business is doing! What I can't understand, however, is what to me seems like the biggest fault with the whole process-good bearings for the rotisserie rod to spin on. On the site I see that they still show the rods sitting on the side of the grill. Noise! Grill metal being eaten on every turn!
Good grief, I did that for one week before I couldn't stand it anymore and had a machinist make me some graphite saddles held up by little steel open topped boxes bolted to the outside of the grill box. Others use some kind of heat resistant, off the shelf bearings.that sit (IIRC) in the rotisserie cutouts, around the rod.
The latch looks good, but I'm still ok with the paper clip I replaced the cotter pin and chain with. Needle nosed pliers to pull it out with, easy.
cost I suppose... if the price is too high people start thinking behmour or?? something less to have to fiddle with..
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A little dab of high-temp RTV silicone adhesive from the auto parts store will help keep that spider washer from falling off. I've only had to re-apply one time over the span of a year roasting twice a week. Hope this is helpful!
Mark
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...The Jaw coupling lasts forever, it's the spider grommets that wear out or fall off and get lost. I bought a bunch a few years ago, they were very cheap-the shipping was more than the grommets-but I'm on my last one (I roast every day, sometimes for hours) and I've lost my notes with the supplier's website. Somewhere deep in my emails is a note from RK with that info.....
That sounds like good advice. Mine wear out and fall apart after (guessing) maybe 500 roasts. My connector on that side is close enough to the grill to feel some heat, which probably is what kills them.
Yep, spider grommet it is (they catalog refers to it as a spider. I have the exact part number. They have a Buna-N (polymer) one for $1.71 and a urethane one for $6.15. From what I have read, the Buna-N will more that meet our needs and does better with heat.
Hearing no objections, I will do a group buy on the Buna-N spiders and can get these out: 3 for $6.75 shipped to your door. Go?
B|Java
Works for me, thanks Dave let me know when I need to send you a PayPal. I am good for 3.
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Don't know what shaft diameter the RK uses, but what you want is a Lovejoy Jaw Coupling.
Aren't those called braces?
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It's great to see how the RK drum business is doing! What I can't understand, however, is what to me seems like the biggest fault with the whole process-good bearings for the rotisserie rod to spin on. On the site I see that they still show the rods sitting on the side of the grill. Noise! Grill metal being eaten on every turn!
Good grief, I did that for one week before I couldn't stand it anymore and had a machinist make me some graphite saddles held up by little steel open topped boxes bolted to the outside of the grill box. Others use some kind of heat resistant, off the shelf bearings.that sit (IIRC) in the rotisserie cutouts, around the rod.
The latch looks good, but I'm still ok with the paper clip I replaced the cotter pin and chain with. Needle nosed pliers to pull it out with, easy.
I use a little bit of Pam vegetable oil spray when the noise gets so loud I cannot hear the beans. Most of the time the noise does not bother me
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The noise sure did bother me, it was torture.My motor turns at 55 rpm, and with 6 lbs of greens in the drum it screeched.
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The noise sure did bother me, it was torture.My motor turns at 55 rpm, and with 6 lbs of greens in the drum it screeched.
Fortunately oil is able to do it for me. Otherwise I'm like Charly, I can't stand squeaking of any kind.
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+1
but what you want is a Lovejoy Jaw Coupling.
Back in the day, that's exactly what I used. Worked like a charm, never wore out, never lost one, allows for a quick disengagement of the spit / shaft from the motor when bean dump time comes.
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I have a open gap of about 24" by 1.75" at the back of my grill. Could be problematic this Wisconsin Winter. I had a mechanical engineer consult today (Schotzieheim & Associate, LLC). I got the associate; older gent. His team suggests a piano hinge or two with a simple aluminum strip or stainless steel strip attached to them that can be clipped open or dropped shut.
Stay tuned for more blueprints and photos as the project develops.
Anyone using a welding blanket or two for winter insulating properties? http://bit.ly/9Bg3tG (http://bit.ly/9Bg3tG)
B|Java
(http://shop1.mailordercentral.com/marshfasteners/images/PianoHinge.jpg)
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Anyone using a welding blanket or two for winter insulating properties? [url]http://bit.ly/9Bg3tG[/url] ([url]http://bit.ly/9Bg3tG[/url])
B|Java
I mentioned the welding blanket a few posts back (http://www.greencoffeebuyingclub.com/index.php?topic=1325.msg152507#msg152507). I've read they work well for insulating smokers so I think they would work well on a grill. I plan to order one soon and put it to the test. Look for blankets made from fiberglass. Ebay has some decent deals.
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I mentioned the welding blanket a few posts back ([url]http://www.greencoffeebuyingclub.com/index.php?topic=1325.msg152507#msg152507[/url]). I've read they work well for insulating smokers so I think they would work well on a grill. I plan to order one soon and put it to the test. Look for blankets made from fiberglass. Ebay has some decent deals.
Missed that. I am trying to make whatever mods that I am going to make, make them at one time. Every time you add a mod, the profiles need rework. Who am I kidding? It is all good, so long as I am learning. Would like to have it winterized so I am ready for that -7 degree roast come January.
B|Java
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I mentioned the welding blanket a few posts back ([url]http://www.greencoffeebuyingclub.com/index.php?topic=1325.msg152507#msg152507[/url]). I've read they work well for insulating smokers so I think they would work well on a grill. I plan to order one soon and put it to the test. Look for blankets made from fiberglass. Ebay has some decent deals.
Yeah, I saw some of our smokers at work wrapped up in these during their smoke breaks last winter. Seemed to do the trick!
;D ;D ;D
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I was looking at the "Hardware and Equipment" section of this forum,
but there is no RK Drum pinned thread there, so I hope you won't mind if
I ask a few dumb questions here. I currently have a 6 month old Gene Cafe,
and I have quickly found the limitations of roasting 224grams at a time. While
I do not have a business/following for my coffee yet, it is an idea that I have
thought about quite a bit over the last year. I thought my next step roaster might be
either a Sono or an RK, but wanted to make sure that I still had the flexibility with both
to do smaller roasts. With the Sono being a 1# or 2# roaster, I would assume that flexibility
does exist.
But what about the RK, specifically the 4# and 6# models. I have read quite a few positive
reviews where current owners say the only mistake they made was NOT buying the next size up.
I understand that as business needs expand, the desire to have a roaster capable of larger
batch sizes is desirable. So planning that in advance would make sense. But what if the buisiness
didn't/doesn't/won't pan out, can a 4# or 6# roaster still act as a personal roaster, Can I still
roast as little as a single pound with either drum?
One other question, I thought during my surfing some time ago regarding the RK Drum, I came across
a listing of commonly sold Gas BBQ grills (those sold at Lowe's, Home Dept, Target, Sears,...) and
their compatability with the RK Drum. But I can't seem to find it now. The forum at the RK site is
new not much help. If anyone knows where this info is located, could you please post it.
Thanks, and sorry for sidetracking this thread, although I may join in on the group buy after
some serious reading, thinking, and evaluation.
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Can I still
roast as little as a single pound with either drum?
I've done 1/4 lb. roasts in the 4 lb. drum. I routinely do 1/2 lb. roasts now and it works great. A single lb. would work out very well.
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One of the Monkey Club cuppers, Jeffo, "Mr. Palate" himself, uses an RK drum (I believe it's the standard 4# drum) and can roast as small a batch as he wants. If you're doing .5# batches in your Gene, you should be able to replicate that in the RK.
Jeff beat me to the post.
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I don't believe the sonofresco will do a smaller batch too well.. (maybe with the milowidget :D
the bbq drum roaster is more hands on.. you have to pay more attention to the roasting process.. the sonofresco you can set it start it and it pays attention to the details (this does not mean you can start it and walk away, just that the profile is set by the sono's electronics)
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Shoot. I could have not posted and let Peter speak for me which he always does well.
I still don't know what these alternative roast level terms mean. We had such a hard time in the past just getting FC and FC+ straight.
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Shoot. I could have not posted and let Peter speak for me which he always does well.
I still don't know what these alternative roast level terms mean. We had such a hard time in the past just getting FC and FC+ straight.
I would say it would be the promoter's sensationalism.
:-X
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A single lb. would work out very well.
I would be interested in your 1# roasting method/profile as well as other info anyone can provide for roasting small batches with the 4# drum. I normally don't do less than 2 lbs.
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I followed the 1-2 lb profile on the RK site and it was dead on. Roasted 3 X 1# batches. The first batch, starting with a cold drum, hit FC at 11:31 and was pulled at a little over 13 minutes. The other 2 batches hit FC at around 10:50.
Roasting Profiles for small loads up to 2 lbs
1. Preheat grill to 470 degrees, give it time to stabilize
2. Load a cold drum with greens
3. Install the drum in the grill, and close lid, working as quickly as possible, so as not to loose too much heat.
4. The grill will drop to about 395 to 420 degrees. It should come back up to temp in about 6 to 7 min.
5. Adjust if you have to but be patient. Keep the grill at 445 to 455
6. First crack should start between 11 min and 13 min depending on the amount of greens.
7. I leave the grill at 465 to 470
8. Second crack should start between 12 and 15 min. depending on the amount of green you are roasting
9. Just as second starts, I cut the heat back to low and let it coast to desired finish. Remember it will take a little time to stop the motor, pull the pin (I use needle nose pliers), get the drum out of the heat, open the door and dump the beans into the cooling tray, so stop short of your target about 15 to 20 sec. to hit the target roast. Make sure you use gloves that can with stand 500 degrees, for about 20 to 30 sec.
If a city of light full city roast is desired dump the beans before 2nd crack occurs, or just a snap or two into 2nd crack
It is good idea to have a fan and a perforated or screened cooling tray, to cool the beans and stop the roasting process.
You may have to adjust your temps, each grill is different, and smaller loads tend to roast faster. I found that a grill that is to hot will cause fast roast times and uneven roasts.
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Has anyone upgrade to the new latch system for the RK Drum?
([url]http://www.rkdrums.com/IMAG0073-350.jpg[/url])([url]http://www.rkdrums.com/IMAG0075-350.jpg[/url])
I've read horror stories about the cotter pin coming out and dumping the entire contents of the roasting drum inside the grill. Fortunately this has never happened to me, but I am still thinking about upgrading to the new latch system. I also think that the new latch would be easier to manipulate when wearing gloves. Sometimes the cotter pin can be difficult when I've got gloves on.
I just updated mine to the new latch and to me well worth it. I can get the beans out a few seconds quicker than with the old style pin. For $15 worth every penny. I should have done it sooner
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Thanks for the report.
I'm mainly just tired of losing the cotter pin. I have extras and it's attached to the drum by a wire, but sometimes it just comes off, almost always at the most inopportune moment. Somehow the pin came off just before, at the moment of, or just after loading the drum into the grill. After about 30 seconds I started to hear beans hit the metal pan in the bottom of the grill and I knew something was up. Sure enough the pin was MIA, and the door had opened just enough for a few beans to fall into the bottom of the grill. And of course I could not locate the extra cotter pins and had to quickly substitute a paper clip.
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What's the model number/part number on your latch?
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There is no number on it but it looks like it may be A-1.
Tom
I concur. The only thing that threw me was the one pictured on the website only has one mounting hole and it looks like there are 2 on the RK latch. Maybe 2 hole is an option. There is always the option of drilling another hole......or in B|Java's case, contacting peter. ;p
I will check on pricing.
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I'm also thinking that a self tapping screw might be an option for mounting.
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A-39 looks like a good choice for the RK...
(http://www.ludwigracinewi.com/images/A-392.jpg)
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...
Dave the best thing is to borrow a Rivet Gun from someone...
Haven't touched a gun since I qualified in '68. I wonder if that one might work?
B|Java
I haz teh gun, and will use it for beer.
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"Necessity is the mother of any time that drives me to the hardware store..."
The hitch pin continues to challenge me and I am not prepared to futz with a new latch. Voila, hitch pins come in a variety of sizes. The one with the larger head is the one I bought today (darker one is original that came with the drum).
Of course, I bought 3, knowing my ways.
B|Java
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A few people have mentioned roaster cleaning and maintenance in various threads. Does an RK system require any regular maintenance? I assume that once a drum is seasoned you don't want to clean it.
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A few people have mentioned roaster cleaning and maintenance in various threads. Does an RK system require any regular maintenance? I assume that once a drum is seasoned you don't want to clean it.
Just check for stuck beans from the last roast before you load up, and clean the chaff ash from the grill.
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7 Over:
I started with a home-built bbq drum roaster and avoided the weather problems by roasting in my shed. Propane has problems expanding properly at less than 20 degrees F so I did not roast when it was that cold but other than that, it worked just fine...
I brought this over from another thread. Talked with my brother this morning re: using my RK in these Lake Cheddar bitter winters. I was trying to learn, as he is a mechanical engineer and designed valves for years - propane and scuba tanks. He said that flow is impacted by BTUs, ambient temp, and internal vapor pressure. Internal vapor pressure decreases as ambient temp decreases and it slows the flow of the gas. As well, vapor pressure is impacted by the amount of propane that is in the tank; that's why you will see folks trying to top it off -- higher volume helps with prop up vapor pressure.
He said with my 46,000 BTU grill with a 20 lb tank, I will begin to experience some flow issues around 30 degrees and struggle around 20 degrees. I think he was saying that smaller units actually have an easier time than larger units. Beats the dickens out of me as he was rambling about thermal units and heat transfer or something.
He said I should grab a 40 lb tank. He did some mental math and said with that size tank and relatively full capacity, I should be able to roast down into single digits. If you go that route, he said make sure that the tank sits vertically. Don't tip a tank or have it on its side.
I think I will have Peter over for a discussion and then, in front of him, I will suggest to the Czarina that I really need a 40 lb tank for the grill for better efficiency. That will cushion the scream.
For what it is worth; your mileage may vary. I am going to find out this winter if mine does.
B|Java
(http://www.missiongas.com/images/1000gallonpropanetank.jpg)
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I use a 40 lb tank. I roast down to 15F...
Curly
I love it. "Hon, Curly uses a 40 lb tank..."
B|Java
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we have that problem with the pottery kiln... I bought a yock to bring 2 tanks together into one burner.. that I run unregulated.. I only draw half as much from either tank so I can operate below any ambient temp I care to stand around in... my use the same thing for the bbq roaster (I will regulate that though.. maybe)
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I use a 40 lb tank. I roast down to 15F. That vapor pressure thing is why a gauge won't tell you how much propane is in the tank. It will read the same until it's gone. A spring/weight set up is the only reliable way.
Curly
I told my brother of how I ran out twice during a roast. He said to weigh a full 20 lb'er and weigh an empty 20 lb'er. Weigh the tank before a roast and get a sense of how much propane is left. If it is approaching "E," hold that tank aside for grilling food where running out isn't so critical.
B|Java
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I use a 40 lb tank. I roast down to 15F. That vapor pressure thing is why a gauge won't tell you how much propane is in the tank. It will read the same until it's gone. A spring/weight set up is the only reliable way.
Curly
I told my brother of how I ran out twice during a roast. He said to weigh a full 20 lb'er and weigh an empty 20 lb'er. Weigh the tank before a roast and get a sense of how much propane is left. If it is approaching "E," hold that tank aside for grilling food where running out isn't so critical.
B|Java
Then you have to buy another tank instead of trading.
Why would a 40 lb tank be a problem?
I never knew about all this stuff and also never had a problem.
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I use a 20 lb tank and roast outside every day, except when the temp drops to below -20F, when the propane flows too slowly. Rasquel recommends placing the tank in hot water when that happens, says it gives a boost.
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I use a 20 lb tank and roast outside every day, except when the temp drops to below -20F, when the propane flows too slowly. Rasquel recommends placing the tank in hot water when that happens, says it gives a boost.
I was waiting for Charly to speak up. He doesn't make excuses for not roasting when it's cold out.
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Long discussion on propane with brother (worked as engineer designing valves for propane). Recommendations for pending winter:
1) Get a 40lb tank (Curly suggested). $80 at Lowe's seems best price.
2) Find a place that "tops off." Something about the weight delivers more BTU's -- I didn't follow the discussion. Bro' gets a bit impatient when I don't track. (Peter has already sourced a close, local shop that tops off by weight).
3) Use a large bucket, place the tank firmly upright into it, and pour in some hot water when you see the ambient temp is interfering with keep the roast at your temps/profiles.
There were bits and pieces I understood; more that I didn't. Did learn that a unit is never able to deliver the BTUs for which the grills are advertised.
B|Java
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for pottery we run a burner strait off the tank.. no regulator.. I can freeze a tank on a cloudy August day.. I got a hose that connects two standard tanks to my burner (or a grill) now its hard to freeze the tanks in snow.. my research says there are two issues.. the big tank of liquid cools slower than the little tank.. and more surface area allows for faster liquid to gas conversion.. and you draw half your gas off each tank through the regulator.. I had to get the hose from a LP distributor..
just another option..
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I was asked offline for the Maui Moka (800' elevation) profile that worked. It's a bugger to roast with never an audible crack. I assume that the low grown cells aren't dense enough to give an audible fracture. Who knows.
3.66 lbs Moka, #14
Grill is 4 burner, 46K BTU
Grill hot, temp on top register 500 at drop
2 burners on full hot
2 burners on medium
11:00, all burners medium
smoke off drum at 11:30
Pulled at 14:00
Cooled with fan box, room temp in 1:40 minutes
City ++
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http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/for/2574039010.html (http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/for/2574039010.html)
one for sale with cooler
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Been using the RK this summer and learning a bit with it. I have a couple of beans that I have worked consistently, trying different profiles using the grill hood thermometer (sketchy at best, I know).
I have learned that it is much easier to stretch the time between 1st and 2nd without stalls on the RK compared to the Gene. I regulate the heat before anticipated 1st crack so the roast doesn't take off. I have tried a variety of temps at which to roast, using the same bean. The hotter profiles put the tiniest bit of a sharp edge to an otherwise good bean. The medium profiles (running about 20* cooler throughout) seem to be giving the sweetest, "roundest," profile and it will be one I stick with for awhile. The lowest profile doesn't deliver a satisfactory roast. I have no idea what those hood temps translate into temp within the bean mass.
^ Still don't have the nerve to tackle an 8 ounce roast.
^ Have learned that multi-tasking and roasting on the RK is a very bad idea.
BJava
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^ Still don't have the nerve to tackle an 8 ounce roast.
BJava
They are not as bad as you would think. As long as you stay on top of the roast and closely monitor temps they are pretty easy.
^ Have learned that multi-tasking and roasting on the RK is a very bad idea.
Is there a story here?
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I have a open gap of about 24" by 1.75" at the back of my grill. Could be problematic this Wisconsin Winter. I had a mechanical engineer consult today (Schotzieheim & Associate, LLC). I got the associate; older gent. His team suggests a piano hinge or two with a simple aluminum strip or stainless steel strip attached to them that can be clipped open or dropped shut.
Stay tuned for more blueprints and photos as the project develops.
Anyone using a welding blanket or two for winter insulating properties? [url]http://bit.ly/9Bg3tG[/url] ([url]http://bit.ly/9Bg3tG[/url])
B|Java
([url]http://shop1.mailordercentral.com/marshfasteners/images/PianoHinge.jpg[/url])
Have you seen the newer section at RK Drums (http://www.rkdrums.com) on Sheet Metal and Efficiency Modifications (http://www.rkdrums.com/index.php/how-to/assembly-guide/item/j-sheet-metal-efficiency-mods?category_id=15) for your grill?
I'm just starting down the RK Drum path. Expecting delivery of a 6# drum combo D-I-Y kit next week. Just received my new 40K BTU BroilMate grill. Great price on Amazon.com with free shipping - $207, and got it in 3 days!
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Just FYI, but Harbor Freight has 4' x 6' fiberglass welding blanket for $17.99. I'm gonna pick one up to try out.
I've also been thinking about getting an infrared thermometer to measure the drum temp of my RK system. I'm not that familiar with infrared thermometers, but me thinks that getting the actual temp of the drum instead of the ambient air temp might be useful.
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I've also been thinking about getting an infrared thermometer to measure the drum temp of my RK system. I'm not that familiar with infrared thermometers, but me thinks that getting the actual temp of the drum instead of the ambient air temp might be useful.
I've been thinking the same thing. The drum temp cant be too much more than the bean mass, can it? It will at least give you a reference point.
Curly
My thinking exactly...
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You'd have to open the grill every time you check the temp. Or, you could design a little peephole w/ a cover.
The IR thermometers have certainly come down in price over the last year.
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You'd have to open the grill every time you check the temp. Or, you could design a little peephole w/ a cover.
The IR thermometers have certainly come down in price over the last year.
I was going to go with the peephole idea if the thermometer works out. One of my coworkers has a IR unit he is going to let me borrow. I just picked up a welding blanket and some welding sleeves (I've had a couple of serious burns on my forearm in the past few months) from Harbor Freight and they had a IR thermometer for $30. I'll pick one up if my testing works out. I figure that I can take a reading throughout the roast, but especially around the time of 1C and 2C. I know what temp the beans should be at 1C and 2C and this will give me a reference point.
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Please keep us updated. I'm really curious to see how it works out as I'm finally getting started on my non-RK RK drum project.
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Please keep us updated. I'm really curious to see how it works out as I'm finally getting started on my non-RK RK drum project.
me too :D
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You'd have to open the grill every time you check the temp. Or, you could design a little peephole w/ a cover.
The IR thermometers have certainly come down in price over the last year.
I was going to go with the peephole idea if the thermometer works out. One of my coworkers has a IR unit he is going to let me borrow. I just picked up a welding blanket and some welding sleeves (I've had a couple of serious burns on my forearm in the past few months) from Harbor Freight and they had a IR thermometer for $30. I'll pick one up if my testing works out. I figure that I can take a reading throughout the roast, but especially around the time of 1C and 2C. I know what temp the beans should be at 1C and 2C and this will give me a reference point.
I just use cowhide welding gauntlets - also from HF.
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You'd have to open the grill every time you check the temp. Or, you could design a little peephole w/ a cover.
The IR thermometers have certainly come down in price over the last year.
I was going to go with the peephole idea if the thermometer works out. One of my coworkers has a IR unit he is going to let me borrow. I just picked up a welding blanket and some welding sleeves (I've had a couple of serious burns on my forearm in the past few months) from Harbor Freight and they had a IR thermometer for $30. I'll pick one up if my testing works out. I figure that I can take a reading throughout the roast, but especially around the time of 1C and 2C. I know what temp the beans should be at 1C and 2C and this will give me a reference point.
I just use cowhide welding gauntlets - also from HF.
how many gauntlets does it take to cover your whole grill during those cold Texas winters?!?! ;-)
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I just use cowhide welding gauntlets - also from HF.
These? That's what I got.
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_18080.jpg)
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how many gauntlets does it take to cover your whole grill during those cold Texas winters?!?! ;-)
That makes about as much sense as asking how many pickles does it take to make curtains for your unicycle. :)
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I just use cowhide welding gauntlets - also from HF.
These? That's what I got.
([url]http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_18080.jpg[/url])
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17679.jpg) (http://www.harborfreight.com/welding-gloves-39664.html)
These are useful for BBQing too. Just don't let them get wet before grabbing something hot!
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how many gauntlets does it take to cover your whole grill during those cold Texas winters?!?! ;-)
That makes about as much sense as asking how many pickles does it take to make curtains for your unicycle. :)
you don't have pickle curtains on your unicycle??.. reminds me of an Arlo Guthrie song "I don't want a pickle, just want to ride on my motorcycle" ..
does the blanket hold in that much heat?? how much does it hinder the process of stopping the roast??
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If you buy ceramic insulation you can get by with as little as 30k BTU. Off the shelf, BBQ grills are incredibly inefficient at holding in the heat. I have the old-school 5lb RK drum, and used a well-insulated cheapy 30 or 32k CharGrill for a long time. I think the ratio of BTU to volume is another thing that many folks don't consider: if you have 42k BTU and a 700 square inch grill cross-section that is 60 BTU per sq in., if you have 30k BTU and 400 sq in grill cross section that is 75 BTU per square inch, which actually gets you 25% more heat directed to where it belongs. I think that the total volume of the grill cavity and the area encompassed by the burner 'footprint' shoulc be matched to the size of your drum. If you don't have decent insulation, and half of the burner flames are nowhere near your drum, you are just wasting propane.
I know I am reviving an old thread but since my bbq drum is one the way I've been reading this thread. I currently have a 48,000btu grill that I use for food and had planned on using it for coffee too but now I'm reconsidering that. I know ButtWhiskers doesn't hang around here anymore does anyone else agree with his statement above? I'm considering a 32,000btu 360sq inch or a 48,000btu 660sq inch for my set up. I'm only using a two pound drum I know I've read that a smaller drum in a larger grill is less efficient. What is the groups opinion on the smaller grill for my set up would it have enough power?
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Will you be insulating?
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Will you be insulating?
I wasn't planning on it.
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Will you be insulating?
I wasn't planning on it.
I don't use a BBQ/RK setup, but think a lot could be gained by insulating it. I'd also rig up some sort of airflow control.
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I've been using an old Weber Genesis style grill, really don't know the BTU rating but seems very likely it's 30-40K, and a 5 lb drum with around 1 lb coffee. It's hot enough without insulation.
The first thing on my list if I were to make improvements would be some kind of windscreen, because I suspect wind blows through there and causes uneven roasts.
On the other hand, the real problems I have had are presumably due to deterioration of the burners etc., and a few years back when I acquired the thing in only half deteriorated condition, I don't remember having troubles with uneven roasts.
I'm not saying it doesn't make sense to work on your grill to insulate it and protect from wind and so forth, but ... just bear in mind that some people have a deep seated need to do that kind of thing, sort of like a nesting instinct but directed towards appliances, and because they do it doesn't mean you have to!
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A 36,000 BTU should be fine for a 2 lb drum.
Will you be insulating?
I wasn't planning on it.
I don't use a BBQ/RK setup, but think a lot could be gained by insulating it. I'd also rig up some sort of airflow control.
I bought a fiberglass welding blanket from Harbor Freight and I've been using it on top of my RK grill with terrific results. The first few times I used it the blanket smoked a bit, but after a while it ceases to emit any smoke whatsoever. It has become an integral part of the RK setup. I'm amazed on how much gas it saves and how much flexibility it adds to the roasting process. Need to cool the temps a bit? Just pull the blanket off. Need a very gradual rise in heat? Toss the blanket on the top.
I would also suggest a couple of fire bricks in the bottom of the grill to add some thermal mass.
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Using ButtWhiskers theory and math that I quoted in my last post I decided on a 36,000btu and 370sq inches char-broil grill. This grill will give me 97btu per square inch versus the 72btu per square inch that the 48,000btu unit would give me. If it doesn't work out then I will add insulation to help with heat loss.
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I think all BBQ grills are not the same. My weber 36000 btu grill with 3 burners running the length of the RK drum do a nice even roast with 2 to 3 pounds. My opinion is that spending extra on a better built grill is a good investment. I have a 4 pound drum and get 1st crack in 10 to 12 minutes depending on the bean and whether it's 2 or 3 pounds. The weber also gives me pretty good control on gas. I continue to harbor doubts about roasts bigger than 3 pounds and, in fact, think that 2 pounds is ideal.
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The first thing on my list if I were to make improvements would be some kind of windscreen, because I suspect wind blows through there and causes uneven roasts.
I would amend that to say uneven temps, or temp readings, which makes it harder to know what's going on. I roast in the garage but near the big door. When it's windy, it looks like the temp is swinging a lot according to the thermometer, and sometimes I overcompensate. I learn to know when it's just some air coming through the back of the grill and it will calm back down. (Usually reads hotter as the wind blows in.) The beans will roast evenly unless the drum doesn't rotate.
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The beans will roast evenly unless the drum doesn't rotate.
My theory is that the wind enters at one end - as the prevailing wind is normally 20-30 degrees off parallel with the grill axis. So supposing it's reasonably constant, I'd have a gradient with colder air at the upwind end and hotter air at the downwind end. Since the case thermometer is at the upwind end, indeed I'd tend to overheat the downwind end, but whatever I do, the roast will be uneven.
Which it is, but that could as well be because the burner tubes are full of rust. It's a good grill, though, and worth fixing up.
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It's stickied.
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A thread on HB persuaded me I need a fan for my roaster - so I went out and got this:
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Has anyone tried building a roaster using the RK Drums that doesn't use a grill?
I'm wondering if there's a DIY method to replicating roasters like the Quest M3 and Huky 500 with an RK Drum.
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Actually I have one of each and I theorize that the perforated drum in the Huky is very similar to the RK. Biggest difference is air flow. If I had the skills, I'd put a chimney on the back of my Weber grill and put a fan in it to suck air through the roasting beans.
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And now for something completely different. I have the 5# drum in a surplus ammo box. The drum has about an inch clearance all around, so the thing heats up instantly. I cut the bottom off the ammo box and it sits on a Coleman compact 2 burner gasoline stove, a perfect fit. The idea originated from the camping ovens that sit atop these stoves. Everything sits on a small, rolling cart in my shop.
The stove puts out 14,500 btu - enough heat to get the job done. A typical one pound roasts in about 12 minutes with no pre-heating at all. At $3.00 gasoline prices, a roast costs 9 cents. It has performed without problems every week for over 2 years now. I have never liked dealing with propane in cold weather. This gasoline powered roaster works as well in 20 degrees as in 100 degrees.
My cooler is a full size perforated baking sheet pan from a restaurant supply on a box with a suction fan down under. It cools 2 pounds in less than a minute. I leave the fan on as I gather up the roasted and cooled coffee and chaff sticks to the perforated pan.
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Sounds fascinating Ed! Would love to see pics if you get a chance! Cheers
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Not sure how to get a photo up on this forum. But here I think is the issue this compact roaster brings to the forefront. With an enclosure only slightly larger than the RK Drum itself, it takes little heat to power it. In the typical RK drum application, you have a big honking hummer of a BBQ grill with a lot of empty space to heat up. Along with that, there is a lot of surface metal wicking away precious heat. To overcome all of that it takes a gas-guzzler of a propane engine.
Since this thread is on the RK Drum, I will say I have praise and complaints. It is nicely crafted and will certainly last a lifetime. I appreciate the "heft" of this drum. A few things on the minus side: The door hinge-pin slid partway out during one roast and eventually locked everything up. I pounded the pin back in and brazed it in place. The unlock pin on the door (on mine a tiny spring pin on a keychain) was impossible to grasp with gloves. I re-engineered it into a spring-loaded clip. The 5/16" shaft that the drum spins on is a bit skimpy. I bent one right off the bat. I know that is the BBQ industry standard for rotisseries, but I would like to have seen an accommodation for 3/8 or even a 1/2" shaft with bushings for the smaller size.
A couple of additional notes on the gasoline powered compact roaster: The only modification to the Coleman stove was metal plates on the grill just large enough to cover the burners so there is no direct heat from flames. The drum shaft quick couples to a 40 rpm surplus gear motor. On the other end of the shaft is a manual crank. After the first crack I uncouple the motor and hand crank, stopping every so often when complete silence is needed to listen (stopwatch in hand) for the faint onset of the second crack.
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Not sure how to get a photo up on this forum.
I usually upload to imgur
http://imgur.com/ (http://imgur.com/)
(no joining needed, just click 'upload images') and choose a pic file from my computer, hit upload, start upload, then select the 'BBcode(message boards and forums)' code, save to clipboard...now you can simply paste that code directly into a post. Cheers!
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Adding pictures in here is easy. At the bottom of where you are typing your post, you see 'Attach' and a "BROWSE" button, use that to go through your directories and click on the photo to attach. I think it has like a 500k size limit so keep them fairly small. Then click post and you should be done.
Aaron
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Hello BBQ roasters.
For the last 5-6 years I have been using a DIY electric drum roaster. I have relocated and now have plenty of room for a second dedicated grill and can convert the drum and rotisserie I have been using (60-80 RPM). The grill has a pretty substantial deflector covering the burners and the grill is 40,000 BTU’s. Any of you advise me getting fire bricks to line the bottom? I’m in San Diego so no weather considerations. Opinions?....RB
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Hi RB, I just ran into this post. After trying different things when I first set up my grill including fire bricks, plate steel etc in the bottom, I didn't like how the extra thermal mass slowed down my ability to change temperatures during a roast. With my old Weber Genesis, the burners run horizontally with a grid of "flavorizer" bars covering the direct flame and that seems fine for heat distribution by itself. I did however insulate the inside lid of the grill with fiberglass which I completely covered with a piece of sheet metal bowed and wedged in to fit like a reflector of sorts. Also covered 2/3 of the rear vent when the lid is closed with a strip of metal bolted to the lid to retain more heat. This saves A LOT of propane and allows me to get many more roasts per tank. Every grill is different and you just have to find the combinations of mods that work best for your situation. I'm in Los Angeles so weather is the same for me...that said, it's still worth tinkering with your setup to make it as efficient and responsive as possible.
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I like these type a great deal. I've seen them in a local hardware store.
After a while they seem to get fragile and break.
http://www.thenoflaresquare.com/ (http://www.thenoflaresquare.com/)
But if you google this .... bbq squares no flame ... you will find others ...
What I like about them is they cut the flames but provide a faster response to adjustments.
I've been using these for almost 5 years with the RK drum
Much Regards,
Dwight
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I saw a few mentions of methods for temperature monitoring in the thread including IR. Can anyone comment on how the IR thermometers have performed or what is your preferred method of monitoring your roast temperature? Have been considering switching to a thermocouple with a datalogger but always open to more cost effective methods!
Chris
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So after checking in on this thread a couple weeks ago, I was intrigued dwight's mention of the ceramic bricks for a grill. In the past I have tried to find inexpensive radiant tiles for my RK system without much luck. I was really excited to find a plethora of options available on Amazon for the grill tiles.
This is a shot of the inside of my RK setup. I've got all the back vents sealed up, as well as and seams or holes that could be closed off. I also have a couple of fire bricks in the bottom of the grill to help add some thermal mass. In the first pic you can see the stock heat spreaders that go over the burners. The second pic shows the inside with the heat spreaders removed:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/b6d54195-b7e8-4bcc-8c32-8fe83532df80.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/headchange4u/media/b6d54195-b7e8-4bcc-8c32-8fe83532df80.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/IMG_20150304_124637.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/headchange4u/media/IMG_20150304_124637.jpg.html)
I searched through what Amazon had to offer and finally settled on these ceramic tiles (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HKK17K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I chose that particular tile because it was thicker than most others (~5/8") and the dimensions of the tiles would cover the majority of the area over the burners, which was 17"x24" in my grill. I also purchased this adjustable grate (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H1W73K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) so that the tiles would have a nice plat spot on which to rest.
The rest was pretty easy. I sized the grate to fit over the area where the heat spreaders normally rest and then laid the ceramic tiles directly on top of the grate:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/IMG_20150304_124653.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/headchange4u/media/IMG_20150304_124653.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/IMG_20150304_124803.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/headchange4u/media/IMG_20150304_124803.jpg.html)
Couple of shots with the drum installed. The tiles covered probably 90% of the area of the grill. Couldn't ask for a better fit:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/IMG_20150304_175955.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/headchange4u/media/IMG_20150304_175955.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/IMG_20150304_180050.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/headchange4u/media/IMG_20150304_180050.jpg.html)
Next I plan to add some handles to the grate to allow me to remove the setup for cleaning. I also plan on securing the tiles to the grate so they don't fall off and break when removing them.
So how did it work? Not sure just yet. It certainly takes a bit longer to heat up, but it also seems to heat hotter at the same heat setting. Heat retention after opening the hood is much better. Unfortunately, the battery on my IR thermometer died, and I was not able to get temp reading from the tile itself. The only roasts I have done so far have been test roasts with old, junk beans in the drum, so I can not compare "tiled" roasts with "untiled" roasts. I plan on roasting 2 batches of the same coffee for comparison. Stay tuned.
Here are some more pics of the setup:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/IMG_20150304_124823.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/headchange4u/media/IMG_20150304_124823.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/IMG_20150304_180147.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/headchange4u/media/IMG_20150304_180147.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/IMG_20150304_175910.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/headchange4u/media/IMG_20150304_175910.jpg.html)
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For those who use their RK setup (or other drum roaster) at higher altitudes, is anyone willing to share some roast profiles or other tips/tricks you’ve discovered?
I’m at 6,000 fmsl, and compared to the quick profiles posted on the RK site, my roasts take several minutes longer to get to first crack for the given temperatures. From what I’ve been reading so far, most are saying first crack is reached more quickly and at lower temperature at altitude. I am occasionally getting some bitterness up front on the finished product which tends to subside the longer the coffee rests.
I haven’t yet checked my thermometer calibration but will be doing that soon. Thanks in advance!
Chris
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Nice set up.
Some years ago I lived up in Colorado and roasted with the RK drum.
I can't say I knew enough then to know about a roast profile to suggest.
If I remember correctly the grill manufacturer had a recommendation on high altitude. ie allow more or less air into the venturi valve.
I have less clearance then you on my bricks. I also notice it takes longer to heat up.
Most recently I've been letting my beans go into 2nd crack a lot longer. I used to stop at a few snaps into 2nd. Now I wait till I get a very good rolling 2nd before I dump into a vacuum cooler.
What I have noticed and no one seems to talk about this very much, is cooling vs the effect on flavor. Namely the faster I cool the beans the more pronounced the flavor.
It seems to me if I get my bean mass to cool down in under two minutes I get a pretty nice flavor. However if I let the beans take over four minutes to cool the flavor is pretty flat.
I tried to even use dry-ice as an experiment. To cool the beans down super fast.
Can't say I noticed a lot of difference.
But thought it might be a pretty good marketing idea to sell my beans against a competitor. :)
Much Regards,
Dwight
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Appreciate your thoughts Dwight. As a follow up, my thermometer had some calibration issues which was throwing off my profiles. Can't believe that wasn't the first thing I checked! Doh!
Chris
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Hello all,
I just wannna tell you'uns that there's a glass blowing supply place near my house and they often have weird sizes of ceramic fiber insulation for really cheap. I think I spent 5 bucks for a couple pieces for my poppery. if you're in need, shoot me a PM and I can swing by and see what's shaking. They also have pyrex tubes of different widths that I've been eyeing for the poppery if anyone needs same.
FVP
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As a note RKDrums and GCBC are looking to partner up on some things. We will keep you posted as to any new developments.
Thanks,
Joe
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If anyone should have any questions on Drum roasting, on RK or otherwise, we're here to help.
Thanks
Shane Lewis
RK Drums
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I have not been coming aroung often enouth apparently. I just noticed that RK was here. I have love roasting on my RK drum. I have a 4 pounder in which I always roast 2 pound batches. I also have a Huky which I appreciate for control and that since it's in the basement I can roast on inclement days. But when i need to get some coffee roasted quickly and easily, I still turn to the RK and honestly, I don't think I can tell the difference in quality of the roasts. I just roasted 2 pounds of a Brazil dry process bean yesterday and I was thinking with all that chaff, I'm glad I roasted it in the RK.
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Glad you're here Shane! My 6# drum keeps cranking out some great roasts and the new cooler(as of Jan'16) is the bomb! Even full loads are cool within about a minute...I'm super pleased. Keep up the great work!
Mark Onks