Pour Over Stations

[headchange4u]

I recently mentioned in another thread that I have been considering making my own pour over station with the help of a coworker and his metal brake. I am wondering, if we can get the details worked out to produce something that would look nice, if there would be any interest from GCBC members in purchasing one. It would be a simple design, made from SS, and the cost would probably be around $40-50 at the most. Assuming we can produce something that looks nice, I would be able to offer custom sizes.



BTW,

While doing some research I came across this really cool DIY pour over station that can be built for around $20.

[mp]

Yeah ... you could even slap a couple of 2*4's together with a few screws and it would cost next to nothing to produce.

 

[gratefulroast]

Yeah ... you could even slap a couple of 2*4's together with a few screws and it would cost next to nothing to produce.

 

[J.Jirehs Roaster]

I recently mentioned in another thread that I have been considering making my own pour over station with the help of a coworker and his metal brake. I am wondering, if we can get the details worked out to produce something that would look nice, if there would be any interest from GCBC members in purchasing one. It would be a simple design, made from SS, and the cost would probably be around $40-50 at the most. Assuming we can produce something that looks nice, I would be able to offer custom sizes.



BTW,

While doing some research I came across this really cool DIY pour over station that can be built for around $20.

I like the copper pipe version of you cafeimports link.. I made a few out of wood but if you are thinking business you have to be aware of what your local health inspector may say.. they may not be right but sadly they are the final say n these issues..

[headchange4u]

If are talking copper pour over stations, the one at Ritual is the best I've seen hands down. I wish I knew how the made or where the bought the copper rings the drippers are sitting in. The rest of the parts would be easy to to put together.  



http://m.flickr.com/photos/tonx/4324649034/

[karlo]

I used copper for ours; preferred the look of it over iron since we have copper on our espresso machine. I can only speak to the beehouse style drippers, but 1/2" pipe was perfect to fit the ridges on the bottom & lock in rather than just balancing on top.

[peter]

If are talking copper pour over stations, the one at Ritual is the best I've seen hands down. I wish I knew how the made or where the bought the copper rings the drippers are sitting in. The rest of the parts would be easy to to put together. 



http://m.flickr.com/photos/tonx/4324649034/

Most likely, whoever made the stand also bent the rings.  I don't think it would that hard to make a circle out of copper tubing.

[Ascholten]

Yanno, I think im gonna raid our swagelok cabinet and get the tubing benders and make one of these for at work.  Im thinking 1/2inch 316 stainless tubing should work well, maybe 3/4  ill have to play and see.

Aaron

[BoldJava]

Yanno, I think im gonna raid our swagelok cabinet and get the tubing benders and make one of these for at work.  Im thinking 1/2inch 316 stainless tubing should work well, maybe 3/4  ill have to play and see.

Aaron

Somehow, I don't think your co-workers will be surprised in the least <grins>.

B|Java

[peter]

Stainless will be way harder to work with.  And with copper, it can be soldered.  How would you keep the parts in line if they're stainless?

[Ascholten]

use fittings peter.  The nuts are hex shaped so have a flat surface.  You make small legs and the 'flats' of the nuts keep it standing up on a table.  You swage the nuts on the ends to make like legs for it.

Aaron

[Tex]

I was at Harbor freight this morning and saw they had small hand brakes for $39. The brake's capacity was 18" width and 16 gauge thickness.

[headchange4u]

Most likely, whoever made the stand also bent the rings.  I don't think it would that hard to make a circle out of copper tubing.

I had a plumber friend of mine tell me that bending a circle, especially around the size need for a PO station, would not be that easy. He said the tubing bends will make curves and 90* angle okay but a complete circle would be harder. I don't own a tubing bender so I have no idea if he knows what he is talking about. Hopefully someone who owns a tubing bender will prove him wrong.

[peter]

Most likely, whoever made the stand also bent the rings.  I don't think it would that hard to make a circle out of copper tubing.

I had a plumber friend of mine tell me that bending a circle, especially around the size need for a PO station, would not be that easy. He said the tubing bends will make curves and 90* angle okay but a complete circle would be harder. I don't own a tubing bender so I have no idea if he knows what he is talking about. Hopefully someone who owns a tubing bender will prove him wrong.

I was thinking you'd wrap it around a pole of some sorts and go around a few times, almost like making an immersion wort chiller/copper coil, and then just cut out a section.

use fittings peter.  The nuts are hex shaped so have a flat surface.  You make small legs and the 'flats' of the nuts keep it standing up on a table.  You swage the nuts on the ends to make like legs for it.

Are you thinking along the lines of the iron pipe/plumbing fixture rack that was posted, or the flickr link?

[headchange4u]

Most likely, whoever made the stand also bent the rings.  I don't think it would that hard to make a circle out of copper tubing.

I had a plumber friend of mine tell me that bending a circle, especially around the size need for a PO station, would not be that easy. He said the tubing bends will make curves and 90* angle okay but a complete circle would be harder. I don't own a tubing bender so I have no idea if he knows what he is talking about. Hopefully someone who owns a tubing bender will prove him wrong.

I was thinking you'd wrap it around a pole of some sorts and go around a few times, almost like making an immersion wort chiller/copper coil, and then just cut out a section.

That's the method listed by some internet resources I've found. I also read that you should use softer copper pipe, like what you would find at a craft store, filled with sand to help keep the pipe from flattening while molding it around an object.