SC/TO heating element switch -- insulated wire?

[luke3026]

Peter,
I can't find a hanger bolt short enough to work.  Maybe I have a newer version of the drive shaft, but the lower part is  X-shaped leading to the where the motor drive enters the shaft body.  A hanger bolt would need to be about 3/4" of an inch or so, but even then, I think the wood threads would extend too far up.

Here's a photo to help explain what I'm talking about.  That is a 1.5" hanger bolt, the shortest Home Depot had.

[Tex]

Peter,
I can't find a hanger bolt short enough to work.  Maybe I have a newer version of the drive shaft, but the lower part is  X-shaped leading to the where the motor drive enters the shaft body.  A hanger bolt would need to be about 3/4" of an inch or so, but even then, I think the wood threads would extend too far up.

Here's a photo to help explain what I'm talking about.  That is a 1.5" hanger bolt, the shortest Home Depot had.

Not peter, but try this. Cut the point of the wood screw end off short enough to fit. Since you're drilling a hole to accomodate the hanger bolt, you don't need the self-tapping pointy end. The wood screw threads should self-align in the hole.

Just when someone figures out a good working solution the manufacturer changes the design. Do you think they hate modders that much?

[luke3026]

Good call, Tex!  That worked pretty well.  A little bit more of a pain in the neck to do, but I like that it keeps everything lined up better than the socket and bolt method I was trying before -- I was having a hard time keeping the arms from wobbling.

One more question -- how is everyone keeping the copper cap in place while dumping the beans?

Thanks!

[Tex]

Copper cup? We don't need no stinkin' copper cups!

I use a wad of aluminum foil and it works and stays in place perfectly!

[peter]

Rats, I wasn't online to offset Tex's advice!   

There's no harm in letting the screws from the hanger bolt go down as far as they need to.  You just drill the hole deeper, which is easier than sawing the bolt off.  But we'll still give Tex some points, since his idea met with the desired success.

I'd say go with the copper cap just for the added value.  Mine are stuffed w/ foil too, and have slots to ride over the stirring arms.  If I had it to do over again, it would have one slot and a hole to thread the arm through to help it stay on when dumping beans.

[J.Jirehs Roaster]

Good call, Tex!  That worked pretty well.  A little bit more of a pain in the neck to do, but I like that it keeps everything lined up better than the socket and bolt method I was trying before -- I was having a hard time keeping the arms from wobbling.

One more question -- how is everyone keeping the copper cap in place while dumping the beans?

Thanks!

mine falls in the bean cooler and I pick it up with my mitts on    but I have been thinking of cutting a notch so that the copper cap can turn and lock to the stir rods... like a BNC connector

[mike]

I cut a couple slots in the cap, locks right on to the stir arm, hasn't fallen off yet.