Cleaning La Cimbali Junior Grinder

[mp]

You're pictures are of item #58 in the above drawing.

They are NOT screws of any sort.

There are three [philips on my cadet] screws that hold item #56 down. Remove it and then as mentioned above the entire #58 simply unscrews.

Keep in mind that this most likely is a reverse thread. Righty loosey. Turn clockwise to loosen.

terry

EDIT: what you are taking for screws are actually screws - but you are seeing the nonworking end. They hold the top burr up into the carrier brass carrier. Unthread it and it will all make sense.

Oh ... thanks tpijag ... will go up and give it a whirl.

 

[mp]

Ok ... that piece did come out exactly as you guys said.

I've really done it now.  I went down the rabbit hole.  How do you tell if the burrs are dull enough to warrant changing?

I'm wondering if I should just dump out the gunk in the lower burr compartment by turning my grinder upside down or carry on and take out the lower burr.

Suggestions?

Thanks for all your help guys.  You're the BEST!!!

 

[tpijag]

General thought is you should be able to slice up a sliver of fingernail when burr is dragged across nail. Maybe a quick search of Google might find a better explanation. Logistics of said action is up to you and any blood spilled ain't my fault.

I took my bottom burr out - it can be troublesome to get the screws to start turning. If you get that far....do not let the burr fool you. Nothing else needs to be done for it's removal, but it might try to stay put - be firm and you will free it from the gunk.



terry

[mp]

General thought is you should be able to slice up a sliver of fingernail when burr is dragged across nail. Maybe a quick search of Google might find a better explanation. Logistics of said action is up to you and any blood spilled ain't my fault.

I took my bottom burr out - it can be troublesome to get the screws to start turning. If you get that far....do not let the burr fool you. Nothing else needs to be done for it's removal, but it might try to stay put - be firm and you will free it from the gunk.

terry

Hi Terry,

Thank you for that.

So the bottom burr is also held on by screws ... or is there a big screw going down the middle of it?

 

[Tex]

The bottom burrs are mounted on the burr carrier with three screws. The burrs carrier is held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle. Some bolts are right hand thread and some are left hand - you'll have to figure out which yours are.

Burrs are sharp if, when you draw the machined edge across your thumbnail, it shaves the nail.

Clean the burrs, burr carriers, and other parts in a strong detergent solution. Be sure to clean the burr carrier threads - I use a s/s toothbrush - available at Home Depot/Lowe's in the welding supplies.


edited: Be careful not to cross thread the upper burr carrier when you reassemble it. I recommend resting the burr carrier on top of the machine and turning it in the opposite direction it takes to tighten it until you feel/hear the click of the threads dropping into alignment, then begin slowly tightening the burr carrier. With the motor running, tighten the burrs until you hear the chirp of them touching - then back off ~20°. From there you'll have to dial in the grind, but that'll give you a good starting point.

[tpijag]

Tex is right about the middle screw. I was going from my memory - apparently not as sharp as my burrs.

terry

[mp]

Well ... got everything assembled again.

I determined that the burrs are not as sharp as they should be.  I'll have to order a set down the road.

Putting the burrs the right distance from one another was a real experience ... but now I know what I'm doing ... the next time will be much easier.

The top burr housing is a real piece of work ... it would not screw gently into thy good night ... I ended up reversing and then tightening until it would gently go about its own way.

Thanks to everyone that helped me out ... it is much appreciated ... and if not for all your tips I probably would have not figured it out.

 

[mp]

The bottom burrs are mounted on the burr carrier with three screws. The burrs carrier is held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle. Some bolts are right hand thread and some are left hand - you'll have to figure out which yours are.

Burrs are sharp if, when you draw the machined edge across your thumbnail, it shaves the nail.

Hey Robert,

Got to thinking about the bottom burr being held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle ... I noticed that the shaft has quite a bit of movement ... how would you be able to remove the bolt while keeping the shaft from spinning of its own free will?

I'm just thinking ahead about when I replace the burrs.

 :icon_scratch:

[Tex]

The bottom burrs are mounted on the burr carrier with three screws. The burrs carrier is held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle. Some bolts are right hand thread and some are left hand - you'll have to figure out which yours are.

Burrs are sharp if, when you draw the machined edge across your thumbnail, it shaves the nail.

Hey Robert,

Got to thinking about the bottom burr being held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle ... I noticed that the shaft has quite a bit of movement ... how would you be able to remove the bolt while keeping the shaft from spinning of its own free will?

I'm just thinking ahead about when I replace the burrs.

 :icon_scratch:

Very high tech solution here Mike: Push a screwdriver down into the grind chamber and wedge it between the burr carrier and the side of the chamber. Or, insert a screwdriver through the grounds chute and wedge it between the carrier and side of the machine.

For some grinders it's necessary to use leverage to get the carrier to slide off the shaft. A screwdriver through the grounds chute is what I use (the Mazzer Super Jolly requires this, but the Rancilio MD50 doesn't).

[mp]

The bottom burrs are mounted on the burr carrier with three screws. The burrs carrier is held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle. Some bolts are right hand thread and some are left hand - you'll have to figure out which yours are.

Burrs are sharp if, when you draw the machined edge across your thumbnail, it shaves the nail.

Hey Robert,

Got to thinking about the bottom burr being held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle ... I noticed that the shaft has quite a bit of movement ... how would you be able to remove the bolt while keeping the shaft from spinning of its own free will?

I'm just thinking ahead about when I replace the burrs.

 :icon_scratch:

Very high tech solution here Mike: Push a screwdriver down into the grind chamber and wedge it between the burr carrier and the side of the chamber. Or, insert a screwdriver through the grounds chute and wedge it between the carrier and side of the machine.

For some grinders it's necessary to use leverage to get the carrier to slide off the shaft. A screwdriver through the grounds chute is what I use (the Mazzer Super Jolly requires this, but the Rancilio MD50 doesn't).

Hmm ... I see.

With the tension of turning the bolt ... would it not put pressure on the screw driver and maybe affect the alignment of the burr carrier?  I'm not saying it will ... I am just wondering out loud.

 

[Tex]

The bottom burrs are mounted on the burr carrier with three screws. The burrs carrier is held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle. Some bolts are right hand thread and some are left hand - you'll have to figure out which yours are.

Burrs are sharp if, when you draw the machined edge across your thumbnail, it shaves the nail.

Hey Robert,

Got to thinking about the bottom burr being held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle ... I noticed that the shaft has quite a bit of movement ... how would you be able to remove the bolt while keeping the shaft from spinning of its own free will?

I'm just thinking ahead about when I replace the burrs.

 :icon_scratch:

Very high tech solution here Mike: Push a screwdriver down into the grind chamber and wedge it between the burr carrier and the side of the chamber. Or, insert a screwdriver through the grounds chute and wedge it between the carrier and side of the machine.

For some grinders it's necessary to use leverage to get the carrier to slide off the shaft. A screwdriver through the grounds chute is what I use (the Mazzer Super Jolly requires this, but the Rancilio MD50 doesn't).

Hmm ... I see.

With the tension of turning the bolt ... would it not put pressure on the screw driver and maybe affect the alignment of the burr carrier?  I'm not saying it will ... I am just wondering out loud.

 

The bearings and motor shaft are heavy duty items - it'd take a severe pounding to damage them. Besides, it doesn't take much pressure to hold the carrier steady while you loosen/tighten the bolt.

[mp]

The bottom burrs are mounted on the burr carrier with three screws. The burrs carrier is held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle. Some bolts are right hand thread and some are left hand - you'll have to figure out which yours are.

Burrs are sharp if, when you draw the machined edge across your thumbnail, it shaves the nail.

Hey Robert,

Got to thinking about the bottom burr being held on the shaft by the large bolt in the middle ... I noticed that the shaft has quite a bit of movement ... how would you be able to remove the bolt while keeping the shaft from spinning of its own free will?

I'm just thinking ahead about when I replace the burrs.

 :icon_scratch:

Very high tech solution here Mike: Push a screwdriver down into the grind chamber and wedge it between the burr carrier and the side of the chamber. Or, insert a screwdriver through the grounds chute and wedge it between the carrier and side of the machine.

For some grinders it's necessary to use leverage to get the carrier to slide off the shaft. A screwdriver through the grounds chute is what I use (the Mazzer Super Jolly requires this, but the Rancilio MD50 doesn't).

Hmm ... I see.

With the tension of turning the bolt ... would it not put pressure on the screw driver and maybe affect the alignment of the burr carrier?  I'm not saying it will ... I am just wondering out loud.

 

The bearings and motor shaft are heavy duty items - it'd take a severe pounding to damage them. Besides, it doesn't take much pressure to hold the carrier steady while you loosen/tighten the bolt.

Very well then.

Thank you for that Robert.